Category: PCT Oregon

At mile 1925.1. Hiked 18.5 miles today. 

At my camp at Charlton Lake I met Steve who is one of the early riders of the new Oregon Timber Trail. This trail open to mountain bike touring is around 600 miles long. Steve was about halfway through.

Steve was wearing a Go-Lite shirt which is the brand of my backpack. Go-Lite went out of business years ago. Steve told me he had a Go-Lite Gust backpack for hiking. I told him that I had the Gust also and showed him my pack. Steve told me that when Go-Lite was going out of business knowing they would no longer be available, he had bought 10 of the Gust backpacks. Go-Lite has its following even after all these years. They are appreciated for being simple lightweight and very sturdy. Both Steve and I have used our Go-Lite Gusts over thousands of miles of hiking without any failure.

Earlier in the day I passed a number of lakes today starting with the three Rosary lakes. The tough part of the day was a long climb near The Twins in the hot sun at 2 PM. The pack seemed to get heavier as the day went on. I finally hauled myself into camp exhausted and shy of my daily 20 miles.

I liked the morning light on this plant.

This is a view of Ormond Lake where I had stayed at Shelter cove.  There were a lot of boats out because there is a type of small salmon (10 – 12 inches) that can be caught in the morning. The big fish is Lake Trout which can be 3 feet long.

 

Here are the Rosary lakes. Lower, Middle, and Upper.

Lower

Middle

And Upper

This is Charlton Lake where I camped.

Middle Rosary Lake had these ducklings.

At mile 1906.6. Hiked 14.1 miles today. Also hiked off trail to Shelter Cove.

Plan: Resupply and camp at Shelter Cove. Hike Tuesday through Friday and go into Belt, OR. for resupply, shop at REI, and overnight at Brew Hostel (1 free craft beer at hostel, but more expensive hostel).

Mosquitoes: I haven’t enjoyed the mosquitoes, but I hike in short sleeve shirt and shorts and as longboard as I keep moving they don’t bother me much. They almost never bite my bare legs while I am moving, but will occasionally attack my arms while I’m moving. Deet helps some and has kept them off my arms for a while. I had a new appreciation for how lucky I am when I met a woman and older man hiking the other direction. Both these people were well covered but the gentleman didn’t not have a square inch of flesh exposed. As I stood there in shorts and short sleeves with head net pulled up, not one mosquito landed on me. Meanwhile the man’a long sleeve shirt and headnet gathered mosquitoes until he was well covered with mosquitoes. I looked over at his companion and she was mostly mosquitoe free. I remarked to the man thatbI wished he would hike with me because he draws away all of the mosquitoes. He asked whether I took vitamins and I told him that I use the Vitamin C drink packets. He told me that he believed that was why mosquitoes stayed away from me. Who knows? Maybe it is the coffee I drink or something else. In any event, I’ll count myself lucky and try not to complain about mosquitoes too much. Others have it worse. 

At Shelter Cove a number of PCT hikers were coming and going. I sat around the  PCT area with Bear just talking.

We got on the subject of how much of the time hiking was actually enjoyable. Funny that Bear has been thinking about that because I had been considering this question just today as I was hiking. My opinion that 10% was enjoyable and honestly that may be an overestimate. Much of the time you are tired or sore. You may be carrying a heavier than usual load of food and water. Even if you are feeling rested, you may be struggling up or down steep slopes. The trail could be rocky. It can be hot or cold or there could be high winds. You can be struggling through snow or just simply trying to navigate unreadable trails. The trail may be overgrown or populated with poison oak, poodle dog bush, or mosquitoes. Even when conditions or ideal, boredom can set in. Actual hiking is very different than a short stroll through a natural area. 

So what do we enjoy about it? Bear  who hiked 40 miles per day and has lost about 70 pounds since hiking the AT last year and PCT this year says that we enjoy it when we stop to take a break. The enjoyment is not the hiking, but when we stop hiking and get some relief. That is also true for me  some days, but it is a sign I need to slow down. The thing is … long distance hikers have this compulsion to move on. As T-Rex says, “if you aren’t moving you aren’t making progress, you can only walk so fast.” T-Rex is a 40 mile per day hiker that averages at least 3.5 miles per hour.

After walking through woods I came out in the open with a wide bowl of snow covered mountains above. THis photo captures only a sliver of the view.

There were patches of snow covering the trail and suddenly streams were abundant.

Looking back toward Thielson Peak. The pointy one 🙂

There were some ponds.

 

Day 78 – 30 Mile Day

At mile 1892.5. Hiked 30.7 miles today.

I hiked 30 miles today because there was water (a pond) at 29 miles and a campsite a mile further. About 3 miles before I arrived at the pond, I thought I saw a huge lake through the woods. With a mosquito head net on you can’t be sure what you are seeing. This turned out to be Diamond Lake. It was not listed as a water source on Guthook. I think the reason was that it would be obvious in map mode. I was using list mode. Since I wanted my 30, I continued hiking to my originally intended stop.  

Here is Diamond Lake in Diamond Lake. This area also had many ponds and wet areas and swarms of mosquitoess throughout.

My 30 mile day put me in a good position for early arrival the next day at Shelter Cove where I could eat at the cafe and take a shower.

Here is view where I uploaded my blog when Avocado passed me back.

Here are tall trees with moss hanging from branches. Much of Oregon is walking through woods with moss laden branches. The draped moss looks like South Georgia.

People: 

I passed Avocado where he still was asleep in his tent. Later, as I was taking advantage of a good signal to upload my blog, Avocado passed me. The next day I ran into Avocado leaving Shelter Cove. He hadn’t taken a shortcut on the Skyline trail and hiked 35 miles to get to Shelter Cove the day before me.

 

At mile 1861.8. Hiked 21 miles today.

This is Zach and Nora who are climbing the pinnacle of Thielson  Peak shown in the background. Zach has climbed it before and it is Nora’s first time. There doesn’t appear to be any room on top, but Zach told me that there is an area the size of a small living room. 

After an area of mosquitoes during mid-morning, I didn’t see mosquitoes again until the last mile before camp. I made this an easy day by taking long breaks and naps at a couple of the more scenic spots. I also slept late having gotten a chill in the morning and after breakfast. I fell back asleep and slept soundly.  I must be really tired. 

By the way, I no longer have hot breakfast. I mix instant coffee in a water bottle and carry it with me. I have cold instant oatmeal, but my favorite is granola cluster cereal with powdered milk. I usually have a couple of pop tarts also. This means that I only use fuel for supper. With denatured alcohol hard to find at times, this helps conserve fuel. It also saves pack weight.

I cooled off my bare feet in Thielson Creek, then laid out in a sunny spot on the bank of the creek. Here is Thielson creek.

Mt Thielson

Occasional views of lakes, but long distances between water on the trail.

Here is rock and talus field below Mt Thielson.

And snow.

And snow on the trail. I crossed the highest point on PCT in Oregon and Washington at 7560 feet, so there were plenty of snow patches.

Here is the high country.

People:

At the end of the day I met Avocado and hiked with him the last couple of miles to my campsite. Avocado started his thru-hike March 28th, the day after me, He went through the Sierras and has taken 6 zero days so far. This is an interesting to compare our progress. He typically hiked 20 plus miles per day in SOCAL and is hiking 30 miles per day now. I think that in the coming weeks I should see others like him begin to pass me. He is the lead edge of the bubble that is behind me at the moment. 

At mile 1840.8. Hiked 19.9 miles today.

Today I hiked the PCT alternate route that is the Crater Lake Rim Trail. I took my time getting started as I enjoyed the amenities of the Mazama Village campground. Upon reaching Rim Village I took a long break to allow my devices to recharge. This meant an early lunch. It was also a great opportunity to meet some interesting hikers including the first true South Bounder (SOBO). The last 2 days I have been meeting a lot of hikers and it is getting hard to keep them all straight. I really enjoy meeting and talking to new people and I think I need that since this hike has been solitary for the most part. 

I had thought that a thru-hike would be carefree with a come what may relaxed attitude. It may be just that for some people who are hiking with just the right group. In reality, a thru-hike is a daily routine with only breif carefree periods. Sometimes I find myself thinking about the hike or being absorbed with some camping or hike related task and I forget to notice what is around me. This is particularly true in comparison with shorter hikes I have taken in the past where I’m hyper focused on my natural surroundings.

Each night I get into my tent and slap the mosquitoes flying against the ceiling.

A couple photos of Crater Lake. Later in the day smoke blew in from California and you could barely see the lake.

I had to have a photo of myself at the lake. There were plenty of tourists around to assist.

Snow at high elevation on the Crater Rim. As a side trip, I climbed to the Watch Tower at over 8000 feet elevation. It is perched high above the lake.

A view from Watch Tower.

People:

Talked to Hummingbird who is a NOBO who is doing more than 30 miles per day.

Met PiXie from Maine who is  first SOBO having  started on June 1st. He is going incredible 300 miles before next resupply. He skied part of the trail in Washington.

Sid and Spark shared campsite with me at Crater Lake Mazama PCT area. Sid from Texas only has a tarp which he sleeps on cowboy style. Spark is from Germany and had come through the Sierras. Both are older than me.

Beatrice from Montreal just began her hike. She is hiking to Canada where her mom will pick her up.

Crazy71 is from China and is 72 years old. He carries over 40 pounds. CRazy71 hiked the first half last year and is hiking the 2nd half this year. He has used the hike to raise $60,000 for a hospice in China.

Peaches and Turtle are hikers using Amazon for their resupplies.

At mile 1820.9. Hiked 16.6 miles. 

I was ready for Crater Lake and with mosquitoes keeping me from slowing down, I was sitting in Annie’s restaurant in Crater Lake before 12:30 PM.

I walked through areas that were intensely burned. In parts the trail was totally obliterated and I was forced to navigate by GPS when I found myself off the trail. Small saplings had burnt into something like tempered swords while curling inward over the trail. These fire transformed saplings would rip flesh and and clothing. There weee also a lot of fallen trees to navigate around.

I met a man named Noodles who was on a hike and was doing his part for trail maintenance with a tiny saw. Every little bit helps, but this was the worst I have seen on the PCT and it needs more than a tiny saw. 

An artistic view of burned forest.

 

This butterfly is interesting because it favors this grass, not traditional flowers. I also really liked it’s coloring and patterns which Indont recall seeing before.

Flowers 

At Mazama Village I shared a site with Sparky and Sid. We drank more than a few beers as older men do, there were opinions expressed and complaints made.

Awww, but it was nice to have campground bathrooms and showers and a camp area filled with PCT hikers young and old.