Category: Southeast

Stiffknee Hike

Stiffknee In December

Day 1

December 20^th 2009

Why would I leave on a snowy December weekend to go on a solo hike in a seldom visited North Carolina mountain wilderness area? Could it be that withdrawal symptoms are taking hold? A return to the solitude of the mountains and the adventure of the hike seems the best cure. It is time to notch another new trail on my backpacking waist strap.

At 4:30 AM on a Saturday morning I am pulling out of the neighborhood. Two and a half hours later, I am on the Tapoca Dam US Hwy 129 pull off on the southern side of the Little Tennessee river. I unload my backpack and stuff in a few last minute items found laying around in the backseat floorboard. US Highway 19 from Andrews, NC to Robbinsville, NC had been outlined with fresh white snowplowed ridges. The Cheowa river roared fiercely along the highway outside beyond Robbinsville as it spread outside its banks through the trees and plunged steeply over rocks down the mountain gorge. I worry about having to cross Slickrock Creek on foot while loaded with backpack. If it is anything like the Cheowa river, I won’t attempt it.

In the valley there is no snow cover. I climb the steep valley of Ike Creek and make my way back down to Slickrock Creek. Here are the first of two Slickrock creek crossings. I decide to keep things dry, so I try the crossing with pants, shoes, and socks strapped to the top of my pack. Stepping in, my bare feet immediately started slipping on the invisible submerged rocks. Not good, yet I am still in the calmer waters than swirl near the bank. I choose my steps more wisely and move toward the main show; the deep plunging central current. Feeling my way with bare feet across the this current, I step deeper and descend to my upper-thigh. I quickly feel my balance slipping way. Another step and I lean forward to grasp a large bolder in midstream. The bolder splits the center of the more powerful mid-stream. I move on 3 or 4 more feet, crossing the next chute before finding the safe calm waters along the far bank. A good feeling, but now I have 2 days to worry about further snowmelt swelling the stream before I make my return crossing. At least it will be a few miles upstream.

Slickrock Creek Crossing

Safely Across Slickrock Creek

I continue up the far bank along the Slickrock Creek trail for 0.6 miles before turning west on Stiffknee Creek trail. The trail regularly traverses a creek just big enough to be impossible to rock hop. I give up the idea of dry boots. By now, with rising elevation, the snow is deep enough that my boots would have been wet in any event. I see no others out here. No human footprints; only the tracks of a canine’s sedulous and focused procession along the trail. A coyote would have given the trail up. This had to be a lone dog. I tire of creek crossings and my wandering mind celebrates each time the trail pulls up the hill and away from the creek. A few miles in, the 3.4 mile Stiffknee trail begins its ascent to the ridge and the snow deepens a couple of inches. The dog tracks continue.

StiffKnee Trail Dog Tracks

I reach the parking pull off at the intersection of FS-59 and Fodderstack Trail. The dog tracks leave me as they take toward the Forest Service Road. Several 4 wheel drive tracks mark the snow along the winding road. I turn onto Fodderstack Trail and resume climbing. Near the Little Tennessee River where I set out, the elevation was a very low 1160 feet; however, I now climb as high as 3640 feet. Snow deepens to about 5 inches and snow begins to fall. Lightly at first. I find a signal and call Maura. I ask her to write down the names of the trails where I am hiking. I had forgotten to leave an itinerary. Still haven’t seen other people.

Taking a break nearby to call Maura.

On Fodderstack Trail

At 2:30 PM, it is still early, but in the snow, 10 miles of hiking seemed like a good 13. At this time of year I am only 3 hours from dusk. I stop at Big Stack Gap (3360 feet elevation, snow depth 5 inches) to make camp. Tossing the backpack under a tree, I begin using one of my Crocs to clear snow for my sleeping spot. Taking a break, I notice that my sleeping pad is missing. It is fallen off somewhere up the trail. I halt the snow removal to hike back beyond the Crowder Trail turnoff to recover the Wal-Mart blue foam pad where it lay near one of the snow bent rhododendron branches that I had pushed through. Before nightfall, I make a 2nd side trip down Big Stack Gap Trail to find water. Fortunately, it is very close. Tim Homan’s trail guide states that there is no water through this section of Fodderstack. It neglects to mention that water can be had with a short detour down Big Stack Gap Trail.

I resume my snow digging and set up my tarp with snow banked to the sides. With pride I snap a photo of my winter snow camp. I eat a little tuna wrapped in tortilla. Though only 3 PM, I lie down in my down bag and fall asleep.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

My Tarp Tent before it sags under another 4 inches of snow.

I rise in about an hour, but don’t feel hungry, walk around a little, bored. Listen to podcasts and finally feel a little hungry as the sun disappears. It is snowing harder. I cook the Stovetop Stuffing. I add chicken and a little more stove fuel to warm the chicken. It is dark and I see steam coming from the lid. A minute later I smell a burning. In tight quarters, had I leaned too close over the flame? I check my fleece hat for scorching. No, the smell was from Stovetop Stuffing à la carbon. I eat it anyway. It continues to snow. Not much to do. I am in my Crocs and I don’t want to walk around outside in the deepening snow. I listen to more podcasts until I fall asleep. Suffering from nocturia as typical of men my age, I need to get up to relieve myself several times. It is a laborious process. No room to maneuver in this tiny tarp and sleeping bag. I extricate myself and unclip my rigged Tyvek tarp opening. Snow drifts in. My last dry pair of socks are off my feet and stowed away to dry so I am barefoot. Even my Crocs tend to drag snow back under the tarp and onto my down bag and clothing, therefore I go unshodden into the snow. My bare feet sink into the several inches of new crystals on top of the 5 inches already there. Feet become numb while standing in the snow. I carefully insert myself back in under the tarp headfirst while hanging my feet out the opening. I rub away the droplets of snow melt before pulling my feet under the tarp. I then contort as I turn head to feet and feet to head. To prevent mopping of condensation onto myself and my bag, I attempt to avoid brushing against a snow and mosture weighted ceiling that progressively sags. Impossible! The outer layer of my down bag becomes slick wet. I then struggle in the dark with little black office paper clasps that I use to attach a triangular patch of Tyvek across the tarp opening. This process repeats. In between, I suffer long periods of one discomfort in exchange for postponement of another.

The snow deepens and collects on the tarp. The tarp gradually shrinks and hugs the sleeping back at my waist and legs. Only a little space exists at my head and feet where hiking poles support what is familiarly called Sil-Nyl by us hikers. The product label would use the longer appellation of Silicone Impregnated Nylon to describe this highly desirable high-tech lightweight fabric. The sleeping bag drips as the tarp takes on the dimensions of a bivy covered in 4 inches of fresh snow. I hear the pelting snow, sometimes hard, sometimes light, but all night.

Day 2

December 21st, 2009

There is finally light enough to get up and retrieve my food bag that I had thrown under a nearby log. I hadn’t bothered to wander through the snow to find a limb from which to hang my food. With concerns of warmth and dryness, I had given little thought for food sniffing bears.

At first, I want to throw all in the pack and move on without eating. After putting on my boots, I feel well enough to heat water for oatmeal. I don’t bother with coffee. How sad to forgo my favorite outdoor addiction. I pack quickly and take to deep untouched snow. My numb toes thaw as I move downhill and push through ice and snow laden branches. At times the trail is difficult to pick out. I hear a dog bark about 40 feet below. No view, only snow and dense growth. After several minutes it occurs to me that there could be a silent human companion in trouble. I call out. “Anyone there?” “Anyone there?” More barks, but no response. Probably a hunting dog.

As I descend I become more concerned with wandering off the trail. A helpful deer has laid tracks along one long portion, but at times the trail almost disappears. After 1.7 miles, I am back to Slickrock Creek at a spot where I had camped in a warmer season during my first trip to this wilderness. From here it is 0.6 miles upstream along the Slickrock Creek trail to the spot where I ford and join the Big Fat Gap trail. The stream looks much calmer here and I relax. The ford doesn’t compare to the first. This time I cross without the delay of taking off boots. I easily walked across the stream.

On the other bank it is challenging to find the way. There is a maze of multiple paths and campsites making it difficult to find the right trail. Slickrock Creek Trail joins Big Fat Gap Trail and a little further on joins Nichols Gap Trail. The trail guide helps and I soon find signs for both trail junctions.

Snow is an inch at most in these lower areas, but the trail becomes even harder to follow along Nichols Gap Trail and later Yellow Hammer Gap Trail (total distance of this section was 3.3 miles). The junction of these two trails has a ten foot diameter circle lined with rocks with a couple of tiny headstones set in the center. Two baby girl twins of the Nichols family are buried here. These trails are narrow, often obscured by dead-fall, and difficult to pick out. On transitions I spend time wandering around in a search for trail continuations. I believe these trails would be just as difficult to follow in the summer. Only 50 yards past the Nichols family cemetery and the Nichols/Yellowhammer trail junction, the Yellowhammer trail seems to completely disappear. After backtracking to the trail junction, resuming the trail and again perplexed at the missing trail, I try a likely direction and finally confirm a trail by tread and cut logs. Back to Ike Branch Trail, I complete a loop and I am on familiar terrain. No longer a danger of getting lost or having to reroute. A final observation are some interesting tracks along a snow covered log near Ike Branch. The front paws are like a cat with 3 toe pads. The rear paws have about 8 pads arranged in a circle. The trail is even, the animal a perfect walker. I can’t find this in my track book.

December 26, 2009
Eagle creek double loop hike

Eagle Creek Double Loop Hike – Smokey Mountain National Park

This hike starting at Fontana dam completes a double loop formed by hiking up to the Appalachian Trail on the NC/TN divide 2 times via Eagle Creek, then by Hazel Creek, returning to the NC valley via Jenkins Ridge and Welch Ridge respectively. Highlights of the trail are the areas documented by Horace Kephardt in “Our Southern Highlanders” when he lived near Hazel Creek / Jenkins Ridge near the settlement of Medlin for 3 1/2 years in the early 1900’s.

Sept 2009 Reservations – 865-436-1297 Permit 75447

61.9 miles hiking distance over 5 days.

Friday night – Fontana Hilton Sat

Tue, Sept 5, 2009 – Campsite 86: total 16.6 miles Wed – : total 9.6 miles

Day 1 , Sept 5

Fontana Hilton on AT to Lakeshore Trail is 1.5 miles, on Lakeshore Trail 5.2 mi to Lost Cove Trail, Eagle Creek trail 8.7 mi to Spencefield shelter, Appalachian Trail 0.6 miles to Jenkins Ridge Trail for 1.8 miles to Gunna Creek (17.8 miles)

Hiked from Fontana Hilton over dam and was treated to the sight of a bald eagle climbing and climbing up the valley and finally over the 400 plus foot dam. It circled over the lake and finally settled on a tree top on the Smoky Mountain side. Lakeside trail, former hwy 288, had a number of rusted out old cars from the 30’s. Saw my first wild pig razorback. It had long legs and was black. Standing in the trail and not noticing me. Cool!! Eagle creek was very easy to cross. Not like December when it was a raging river. The next to last part of the Eagle Creek Trail ascends steeply. It is a leg buster. Ridge Runner older couple had tent set up at Spencefield. They questioned me and when I told the lady that I didn’t have resaevations at Spencefield, she told me that she was a ridge runner and that I wasn’t welcome. I went on up the trail and told people I met that I was headed down Eagle Creek. Actually, I headed to Jenkins Ridge. Wanted the Ridge Runner to think I was camping at 97 on Eagle Creek. I’m actually stealth camping of sorts on Jenkins Ridge at Gunna Creek. Only flat place for miles. Trail is overgrown with nettle and blackberries. Not ideal spot, but it is home with rain now coming down with me laying under my tarp, nestled in my down bag with a belly full of mashed potatoes and wine.

Razorback Hog on Lakeshore Trail – Notice the bristles standing up on its back!

Day 2, Sept 6

Gunna Creek on Jenkins Ridge Trail 7.1 miles to Hazel Creek Trail, Hazel Creek Trail 0.8 miles to Bone Valley Trail, Bone Valley Trail up and back to Bone Valley Campsite 83, 3.6 miles – (11.5 miles)

Litted and Tied up the corner of my tarp to open it up like a lean-to. Made more room for cooking. Didn’t want to chance a storm as I ate breakfast. Began raining a couple of miles into the hike. Crossed tailings of a couple old copper mines. Saw a side trail going uphill with only a no horses allowed sign. Found a cemetery on top. Later learned that it was Higdon cemetery. There was one grace just outside the boundary of the cemetery with a stone reading “A Black Man”. It was a man who died in the Spanish Flu epidemic in 1919. He worked for Ritter in the logging operation and died while helping others with the flu. Maybe that was why he was welcome at this cemetery, sort of. At Bone Creek I set up my tent lean-to style in order to give me more room. It opens toward the creek which runs about 25 ft away. After settling in and eating tuna fish wraps for lunch, I Took a hike up Bone Valley to see the Kress Cabin and another cemetery. Saw a bear in the middle of the road. Got a photo, but the flash was enough to make him move off the road. Wish I could have gotten closer. Back at camp, I did laundry and took a bath in Hazel Creek. Now I smell good! Noticed that my boots are coming completely apart fr the sole. It seemed like the Gortex wasn’t keeping water out. Now I know why! Guys at the campsite were Rick and Cairo from TN. They were 61 years old and had canoed across Fontana then hiked up Hazel Creek. Shared their dehydrated apple crumb cake. Thanks guys!

Post Office at the Settlement of Medlin (Now the campsite at the intersection of Jenkins Ridge Trail and Hazel Creek Trail.)

Bear!!!

Day 3, Sept 7th

Hazel crk tr 1.3 mi to intersection with Cold Spring Gap trail, continue on Hazel Creek trail 8.1 mi to Welch ridge trail, Welch ridge 1.7 mi to Siler Bald shelter: total 11.1 miles

Hazel Creek trail was nothing like Jenkins Ridge. It has a gradual climb with plenty of switchbacks. The lower portion follows a road where tire tracks can be seen. The middle portion is a true trail that requires many rock hopping creek crossings. Saw a great number of animal tracks, but none of the owners. Did not see anyone until I reached Silar Bald on the AT. Soon after I summited on top of Welch Ridge, I noticed darkening clouds directly ahead. There was a drenching rain shower just after I made Silar Shelter at about 1 PM. Ate yummy mashed potatoes for lunch. Visited with passing through hikers. My shelter mates are Terry (big man, bigger backpack) and Craig from Knoxville. Terry is a first timer carrying over 50 pounds. He hiked the 6 miles from Clingman’s Dome and was exhausted. He was out for 10 days, but already rethinking his trip. He brought a full sized coffee pot and brewed us some coffee. Saw a buck and doe at our bear line. They were scampering and playing before taking much notice of me. Once I moved back, the buck again approached the bear line. Got a photo of the buck. My Ridge Runner pals showed up for the night. As they walked up, I loudly said, “Well, it’s the Ridge Runners”, in order to ruin their sneaky cover as regular hikers. They later started giving a couple of late arriving kids a hard time about not having a hiking permit, but they did offer to make arrangements to get them set up with a permit. Well, at least we had shelter monitors for the night. I go out here to get away from people telling me what to do.

Day 4, Sept 8th

Appalachian Trail to 0.7 miles to Welch Ridge Trail 7.3 miles to Cold Spring Gap Trail (side hike to High Rocks 0.6 mi), 3.5 miles to Hazel Creek Trail, follow Hazel Creek Trail 6.5 miles to Lakeshore Trail, Lakeshore Trail toward Fontana approx 1 mile to Campsite 87 (Campsite 87 is not on maps or guide) – (19.6 miles)

Went out of shelter to use the bathroom and saw glowing eyes of a deer on the trail just in front of me. Later when there was a little light, I went back and when I came around the corner there was a buck about 15 feet from me. Terry was up before 5 am cooking and making noise. I didn’t mind, but I wondered about the others. After about 5:30, I finally decided to get up for an early start. Welch ridge was a pleasant walk, but overgrown in places with blackberries. I tried identifying some of the plants. There was the orang jellybean plant; similar to Solomon’s Seal. There was a plant that always growing over the trail that had leaves like green bean plants and whip like racemes withe tiny white buds running the length. Did not see any one until I arrived back at Bone Valley CS. Now I sit by the campfire at unmapped CS 88 without seeing anyone other than the 2 fishermen at Bone Valley. Pleasant level walk on road along Hazel Creek for over 5 miles. Stopped for a refreshing swim and wash. The Gennet Magnolia overhanging the river had bright red fruit. The sun was shining through the green leaves of a river birch. I found a sunny rock in midstream for my rest spot. Nearer the site of the former sawmill town of proctor, I spied a large old building through the trees. I had to look several times to make sure it was really a structure and not an illusion. Took photos of this giant brick and concrete structure. This turned out to be the old drying kiln for the sawmill. It had dikes in front where the log pond had been. Missed my campsite at Proctor. I should have crossed the bridge at Proctor and headed east on Lakeshore Trail. Instead, I went west on Lakeshore. I finally stopped to check my map and saw the error. Instead of turning back, I went on. I was lucky that in a short while I came up on campsite 88, a site that is not on the map. The campsite had plenty of dry wood nearby so I built a campfire. I had the camp by myself and had only seen the 2 fishermen all day.

Cabin at High Rocks with Chestnut Shake Siding.

Day 5

Campsite 87 on Lakeshore to trail to Appalachian Trail near Fontana 8.6 miles, 1.5 miles to Fontana dam and on to Fontana Hilton (10.1 miles)

Again, didn’t see anyone while hiking. Hiked these last 10 miles quickly, finishing before noon. Had a great view of a ptarmigan. This was my 3rd sighting since yesterday. They always startle you, but you rarely get a good look at one. Also came up on a couple of turkeys. It was humid. I put away my hiking poles for the last couple of miles. Nice change for the easier terrain. While crossing Fontana dam I began losing my balance. A work crew was jackhammering the cracks in the pavement along the road that traverses the dam. The dam was swaying. At more than 400 ft tall, the dam is scary enough when it doesn’t move. I walked faster.

September 27, 2009
High Water on Eagle Creek

I left directly from work Friday afternoon and drove through Robbinsville, NC on the way to Twenty-Mile Ranger Station in the Smokies. Along the way it had been raining and as I reached Robbinsville there was a mix of rain and snow. I arrived late at night with the snow coming down. Several young guys arrived and parked soon after I pulled in. They were planning to night hike to the top of Gregory Bald. My plan was more modest and involved hiking a mile or so into campsite 93 where I would spend the night.

December 11th – 13th, 2008

The next day I hiked to Eagle Creek where I had planned to walk to Spencefield Shelter. As I rounded the bend over Campsite 90 I heard roaring water and saw a river that reminded me of a small Colorado river. The water was rushing over rocks and seemed to want to carry everything away.

Crossed here twice at 1st ford, once in each direction.

I had not consulted my brown book and if I had, then I would have known that there were at least 15 fords of Eagle Creek. I made it across the first crossing and at the 2nd crossing I made it to nearly mid-stream when I felt myself about to go weightless. The current was pushing hard against each leg and against each hiking pole. I strained to stay upright as the current swept away one of my hiking poles. At that point I knew that I had to return to the bank, but wasn’t sure I could make it. Very carefully I shuffled along the rocky bottom and made m way out of the strongest current and back to the bank. I couldn’t believe that there were already 2 fords and I thought about a reattempt, but first I consulted the brown book. With the brown book stating that there were at least 6 – 7 difficult crossings with some of the later crossings harder than the first, I knew that it would be foolish to continue on Eagle Creek trail. I returned to Lost Cove Campsite 91 where I built a fire and attempted to dry out.

My route traced in blue.

Snow! Twenty Mile Gaining Elevation

Snow!

Snow Encrusted Sign on AT at Twenty Mile Intersection

AT End of Lost Cove Trail

Shuckstack Fire Tower in Snow

Eagle Creek on Lakeshore Trail near Campsite 90

Water is high on Eagle Creek after 2 days of December Rain

Mark at Eagle Creek

Crossed here twice at 1st ford, once in each direction.

Lost Cove Campsite 91 the next morning after the Eagle Creek attempt.

Boots frozen solid with Eagle Creek Ice

Day old frozen footprints of Mark seen when I backtracked the next day back up Lost Cove Trail

Back to the top of Lost Cove and the AT sign is no longer covered with snow.

Taking a break at Campsite 113 on the AT.

Bear Tracks off Gregory Bald Trail

Cades Cove from Gregory Bald

Sheep Pen Gap Campsite 13 was very windy and cold. I slept in 2 sleeping bags and all my clothing.

Partridge Berries, Yummm!

December 13, 2008
Arkaqhah Trail Hike

Arkaqhah Trail Hike

November 26, 2008

Started at Track Rock Gap at 8:30 AM. The temperature was 24 degrees. The trail starts uphill and after a few hundred yards turns left following the hillside and angling upward. Within 10 – 15 minutes at a big rock just to the left, the trail crosses from one hill to another at the head end of a gully. From there, the trail soon begins to climb steeply straight up the fall line with a break of a climb not quite as steep and followed by another, but shorter straight up the fall line steep climb. The trail takes a couple of turns, perhaps switchbacks, then climbs straight up the fall line again. The trail turns right onto the first of 12 switchbacks leading to the first ridgetop and a view of Brasstown Bald. The 3^rd, 4^th, 6^th, and 7^th switchbacks are shorter. All of the switchbacks rise quickly.

At the ridge summit to the right of Brasstown Bald you can see a broad, high cliff on the facing mountain. It might be an attraction to rock climbers. Only about 100 – 200 feet down the ridge there is a rock outcrop with the first of many nice views of toward the valleys of the north.

Continuing on the trail, I noticed that the steep heights overlooking the broad valley on the north side could attract hang gliders. At one point it seemed as if I could step off the side of the trail and land in a parking lot about 1000 feet straight below.

After the ascent to the peak of the first ridge the trail follows ridges and skirts peaks with no major ascents or descents. With views of the ridge to the south it seemed that I could pick out Blood Mountain, Hogpen Gap, the Blue Ridge Swag, and a probable Unicoi Gap. Looking back more to the southwest, I thought that I could see Coosa Bald and even Flat Top Mountain (Cohuttas) toward the west.

Saw two couples on this out and return trip. The first couple was a man and wife trail maintaining crew. They were armed with a hand saw that could handle branches as large as 8 inches. I gave them info on a large tree that had fallen right on top of the first ridge top. On my return from Brasstown, I saw that they had cut a pathway under the suspended tree.

I wore gloves, hat, coat, and wind pants and made adjustments by partially unzipping my fleece part way and stuffing in my gloves and/or hat when I started heating up. Inevitably, with wind or shade or easier slope, the fleece would get zipped back up and the gloves and hat would return to their places on my hands and head. My steps crunched as I stepped on the frozen ground. No water on this trail, but there were icicles.

At the Brasstown tower, I ate a couple of old bagels with honey and strawberry jam that I saved from my Chik-fil-A breakfast this morning.

On the return I revisited a sloping south facing rock face that was heated by the sun and sheltered from the breeze. Using my pack as a pillow, I pulled my black fleece hat over my eyes and took a nice warm nap. As I woke up, I opened my eyes to a clear view of the ridges of the Appalachian.

View northward. Ridge extending just below the level of my eyes is another trail access to Brasstown Bald.

View northward. Ridge extending just below the level of my eyes is another trail access to Brasstown Bald.

Resting at first ridge top with a view following an uphill hike.

The view at the rest stop.

November 26, 2008
What Growls in the Dark?

This is a 5 day backpacking hike from Round Bottom along trails between Mount Guyot and Cataloochee.

November 4th, 2008 – Beech Mountain Trail and Balsam Mountain Trail

I was all packed and ready to drive directly from work to Round Bottom where my plan was to night hike 4.5 miles to Laurel Gap Shelter. Traffic on I-85 in Atlanta was awful, but I was on my way soon enough. After a wrong turn in Cherokee and some wandering through the Cherokee Indian Reservation on a night time search for the the Straight Fork Road turnoff I finally made it to Round Bottom much later than expected. By the time I started hiking, it was nearly midnight.

I set off at a quick pace with my headlamp guiding the way. The woods seemed to close in on me and I didn’t feel relaxed. It didn’t help that in the dark the starting point seemed a particularly remote spot located miles up a gravel road. This night hike was a climb of over 2000 feet and soon I was high enough to make out the large dark form of a mountain opposite the mountain I was climbing. I reached a freshly fallen tree that as luck would have it fell lengthwise across the trail. The side of the mountain was very steep so going around was nearly impossible. Going through the maze of branches was equally difficult in the dark. After much struggling, I managed to climb through the fallen canopy and skirt some areas by climbing around on the steep bank.

Moving on I continued to ascend. Suddenly I heard several loud deep grunts just above me. I kept walking and turned my headlamp to the brightest setting and looked through the woods above in search of the source of the warning call. Whatever it was, it was along side me, neither in front or in back. I continued moving up the trail only to be further rattled when the deep grunting sound followed along above the trail. I scanned the woods with my headlamp several times. Never seeing anything, I kept moving. The sound kept moving along with me while maintaining its distance. Not wanting give the impression of prey, I moved deliberately. Before long the sound stopped and I moved faster to put distance between myself and whatever had been lurking up above me. As I hiked, now moving faster than ever I wondered what it could be. I thought perhaps a deer that was defending territory. Once while hiking near Grayson Highlands I had a deer (in daylight) make a similar sound as it stamped a hoof to warn me away. Maybe I was just hoping my creature was a deer. It could just as well have been a bear, but by the sound of it, it was definitely a large animal, either dear, bear, or wild hog.

I finally topped out and reached Balsam Mountain trail after some flat terrain and easier climbing I found the turnoff sign for the shelter. A man and his son were surprised to see someone hike up after 1 AM. They had a fire going in the fireplace and the shelter still had fencing and gate across the front. After my earlier encounter, I was only too glad that the park service had not yet taken down the chain link fencing from the front of this shelter.

My route is traced in red. Started and finished at Round Bottom. November 4th – Beech Mountain and Balsam Trail to Laurel Gap Shelter (4.5 miles). November 5th – Mount Sterling Ridge, Baxter Creek, and Big Creek trails to CS37. (16.5 miles) , November 6th – Camel Gap Trail, AT, Balsam Mtn Trail to Laurel Gap shelter (16.9 miles), November 7th – Gunter Fork Trail, Swallow Fork Trail, Pretty Hollow Gap Trail to CS39, November 8th – Pretty Hollow Gap, Palmer Creek Trail, Straight Fork Road to Round Bottom (approx. 9 – 10 miles)

November 5th – Mt Sterling Ridge

Mount Sterling Ridge is the kind of hike that I like. It is a high elevation relatively flat ridge walk with cool breezes and views. In addition, it leads to the attraction of a fire tower making it a top spot to hike in the GSMNP.

Big Creek Trail was another easy hike. This wide flat trail follows the creek and would be make an ideal beginners horse trip. I hiked quickly in order to push out the last 5 miles as a thunderstorm threatened.

Mt Sterling Fire Tower

The prettiest yellow autumn colors I have ever seen are on Baxter Creek Trail. SO YELLOW, the light filtering through the trees seemed yellow.

November 6th – Camel Gap Trail and Balsam Mountain Trail

Camel Gap Trail involves a climb that leads through open mountain laurel tops. Balsam Mountain Trail is all high elevation with some narrow ridge walks making it another of my favorites. I was often stepping off the trail to check out views from open ridge spots.

Returning to Laurel Gap Shelter, I took down food supplies that I had cached on the bear cable the day before. Someone had stolen my boxed wine and left me some undesirable food that they must not have wanted to eat or pack out. I spent a 2nd night at Laurel Gap Shelter. The shelter, one of 3 that are not on the AT has a grassy area and sits at a spot over 5000 feet making it my favorite shelter. Another reason I like this shelter is that it has Mt. Sterling Ridge and Balsam Mountain trails nearby.

November 7th – Ups and Downs

Down Gunter Fork Trail back to where I had camped 2 nights ago, then up Swallow Fork Trail crossing Sterling Ridge Trail. Finally down Pretty Hollow Gap Trail to my campsite.

At CS39, I built a campfire and laid down next to it until late. For the first time on this trip, I was camping without any other campers in the area.

November 8th – Hiking out to Straight Fork Road

It was a cold morning, but the climb up Palmer Creek Trail warmed me up. Later, when during what seemed like an endless walk down Straight Fork Road, I was cold, particularly my hands.

Not sure where I am, but I am obviously worn out. This may be when I took lunch at Pretty Hollow Gap after climbing Swallow Fork trail. I was pretty worn out by that point.

November 8, 2008