Category: Smoky Mountains

Elk and Views – Cataloochee Hike

Friday, December 3, 2010

Thursday night I slept in the van parked at an overlook near Cove Creek Road. Cove Creek Road was as I remembered it from the time 33 years ago when my brother, John, and I spent a dark night negotiating this winding narrow road for 30 plus miles; a prelude to a Smoky Mountain thru-hike via the Appalachian Trail.

I was up early Friday morning, munching on a half disk of cold spinach quiche while driving back up to the Cataloochee Divide to cache my backpack (hidden near the trail) and food bag. After some effort I managed to toss my bear line over a limb. These items would be unattended for couple of hours while I positioned the van at the Caldwell Fork trailhead and returned by bike on a 1200 foot climb over 4 miles.

I passed a couple of large Elk along the side of the road as I descended to the Caldwell Fork. Returning uphill on bike, I came upon an Elk positioned in the middle of the road. As I approached, it walked, then trotted and stopped and turned. I continued pedaling and as I grew closer I was forced to slow. Just as I was slowing to a stop the Elk turned and disappeared over the guardrail.

The weather was fine; cool with passing clouds. The Cataloochee Divide followed the park boundary marked most of the way by a split rail fence that extended for miles. The rails were wrapped onto posts by thick strands of rusty bare wire. A lane or dirt road often followed the trail alongside the opposite side of the fence.

Here is the Cataloochee Divide Trail.

Here is Taylor’s Turnaround and a barn cabin with a great view.

Occasionally, I passed by vacation houses and cabins. One in particular that was under construction was placed so close to the park boundary and trail that I could stand next to the fence, reach over and nearly touch it. In my opinion, placing your house 3 – 4 feet from any property line is really obnoxious, particularly when it is National Park with a trail along the line. The views of the valley, towns, I-40, and other roads made this walk interesting in its own way.

Other than a couple sitting at Purchase Gap Nature Trail and the sight of a few cars and sounds of construction workers I was by myself these 2 days. There were no other hikers.

Here are open views while walking along the park boundry.

Cataloochee Ranch with Hemphill Bald and the view of Maggie Valley was a point of interest. Maggie Valley’s north facing ski slopes were covered with man-made snow. The wide ski trail looping toward the south was waiting for natural snowfall. This slope need only wait a day to be covered in slushy white as well as its neighbor. Hemphill Trail also followed the park boundary which was marked with split rail fence as well, however, it soon began short divergences into the interior of the park.

Hemphill Bald is half bald. The Cataloochee Ranch side of the divide is open while the National Park side is completely wooded. Cataloochee Ranch placed this land into a conservatorship of some sort. It provides tax advantages, allows continued use by the owners, and prevents the land from ever being developed. The land can even be sold, but the conservatorship follows the property meaning that the land cannot be developed by new owners. The Smoky Mountain National Park only maintains 2 balds, Andrews Bald and Gregory Bald. I have stealth camped on the first and camped at the nearby campsite on the second. The remaining bald areas in the Smokies that can be seen along the Appalachian Trail are not maintained and will disappear in a few more years; however, the half bald of Hemphill will be maintained on the Cataloochee Ranch side. When 16 and 17 years old, John and I found expansive balds on the AT Smoky Mountain section.

I hadn’t mentioned that the legs felt an extra degree of strain right from the beginning. This was due to the early morning ascent by bike followed by immediate and continuous hiking. The ridgeline hike was followed by miles of gradual descent then steeper descent making it much easier than my typical mountain hike, but by the time I reached Campsite 41 on the Caldwell Branch Trail it was nearly dark (5:30 PM) and my legs were long since ready for relief. I skipped the “Big Poplars” so that could get into camp with a little light still left. After Joyce Kilmer and Yosemite, those Poplars don’t seem so big anyway.

I replenished with much needed water. I only had 48 oz all day. It was a ridge walk. There were plenty of cabins, but no streams. I chose not to leave the trail to hunt water at one of these residences.

Here were some of the nice points of the hike…..

Really cool! A map sign with bearing and profile of mountains that could be seen from Hemphill Bald. I was able to pick out Standing Indian (major cool) and Mount Pisgah with its giant antenna. You could track the mountains along the Blue Ridge Parkway. Other spots that supposedly could be seen included a who’s who of all of the important places I had been in the Southern Appalachians. Beauty Spot (Camped there in the snow.), Max Patch (my favorite bald), Mount Mitchell (Rode bike in Century to top.), and Roan Mountain (I climbed in the snow).

Christmas Ferns and Icicles Hanging on ledges along southern end of Hemphill Trail.

Lots of Elk poop on Rough Ridge Trail. (It looks like black jelly beans)

Saturday, December 4, 2010

Here are Christmas Ferns and Icicles on Hemphill Trail.

Exhausted from the long day, I listened to podcasts of Prairie Home Companion and ATHiking Southeast (Lenfoot Lodge Episode). I was probably asleep by 7:30 pm. I remember a brief light sprinkle of sleet or rain hitting the tarp roof at 4AM. It was overcast in the morning and not too cold. Breakfast was the usual coffee and homemade oatmeal with raisins, walnuts, brown sugar, and some crunched up Heath Bar.

Since I was hiking a loop of the Caldwell Fork Trail – Big Fork Trail – Rough Ridge Trail – Caldwell Fork Trail, I left my tarp in place with my sleeping bag stuffed in a plastic bag and placed under the tarp. I put my food bag on the bear cables. My pack was lighter, but I still carried my lunch and all of my rain gear and warm clothing. After a couple of hours of hiking, it began to sleet and rain. The weather gradually worsened and grew colder. By the time I started climbing to a little higher elevation up the Rough Ridge, snow had coated the ground and I was sloshing around in mud. My raingear was soaked on the outside, but I was relatively dry. Earlier I had changed my clothing around as I warmed up and as it later started to rain. Now I was in raingear without much other layering. By the descent on Caldwell Fork back toward camp I was cooling down. By the time I reached the tarp I was a little chilled. I scraped the snow and slush from the drooping tarp and opened the side of the tarp with hiking pole and stick to form a sort of lean-to. This gave me more area and more importantly headroom needed to change into dry layers. Once changed, I felt better, but I had gotten a little chilled and I couldn’t shake it. I had retrieved my food bag, but had forgotten to resupply with water before I had changed into dry clothes. As luck would have it, it started raining very hard preventing a trip to the stream without getting wet again. I was reluctant to put wet raingear over my dry clothing, but I was thirsty. Eventually, there was a slight lull and I quickly filled a couple of bottles. Now, I could make hot tea and eat hot Trader Joe’s spiced soybeans. Finally, I was warm. In fact, I was charged up and thoroughly energized. Amazing!

It was only about 1:30 PM and the idea of sitting around all day in camp didn’t sound good. The idea of hiking the next leg back up to Purchase Gap 5000 plus feet elevation was even less appealing when I considered the likely snow and weather. I was only 4 – 5 miles from the car via the lower elevations of a flat Caldwell Fork trail, so I decided to hike out to the van and return to Roswell. It seemed that the weather would only worsen once colder air moved in behind the front. I was right. There were snow showers for the following two days with lows at 10 degrees F.

The Caldwell Fork section north of the Big Fork turnoff must set the record for number of split log footbridges. I didn’t bother counting. The book says that the longest split log footbridge in the Smokies is on this section. There were a number of fairly long log bridges. If you enjoy these bridges you need to hike this section. After I started hiking again, the rain backed off and didn’t begin to return until I was nearly to the car.

December 5, 2010
Forney Creek / Forney Ridge Hike – GSMNP

Friday, September 10, 2010

Last January I began looking for a quick weekend hike in the Smokies. I remembered how beautiful Gregory Bald was in the snow and thought about hiking to Andrews Bald. It would a short drive for the Smokies and I could walk Forney Creek trail and return to the Tunnel on the Road to Nowhere via Forney Ridge trail. In the end, I didn’t want a repeat of my winter Eagle Creek experience with impossible fords of snowmelt swollen streams, so I decided against Forney Creek and the risk of crossing 4 times.

I load up the van and drive to Bryson city after a quick stop at Captain D’s for the last civilized supper. I do my usual camping in the van at a parking lot on the Nowhere Rd. With windows cracked, sunroof open, and creek gurgling, I sleep with pillow and sleeping pad more comfortably than I sleep at home.

Saturday, September 11, 2010

18.2 miles – Tunnel Parking Lot – Tunnel – Lakeshore Trail – Forney Creek Trail – Forney Ridge Trail – Clingman’s Dome path & return, Forney Ridge Trail to Andrews Bald

After a quick 8 – 10 mile ride back into Bryson City for a breakfeast Subway eggwhite sandwich and coffee, I return to the trailhead and stuff the last few items in my pack. I add the uneaten half of my flatbread egg footlong to my pack.

The tunnel is darker than expected, but I don’t stop to retrieve my headlamp from the pack. I trust in my footsteps. The floor of the tunnel is absolutely cloaked in darkness; the dimest light tells me where the walls lie. My mind easily begins to wonder whether a deep shaft might have opened in the floor of this forgotten 1940’s era tunnel. I would easily make my last step into oblivion.

I’m on Lakeshore trail, easily the longest in the park. Today I hike it for only a mile or two. This is also the Benton McKaye trail. I’m adding a couple more miles to my BM mileage. The forecast is for rain. In fact, it had already rained a little while I slept in the van (forcing me to get up and close the sunroof). As an afterthought, I grabbed a small umbrella that happened to be in the van. As it rains harder, the umbrella goes up. I’m proud of the way I am keeping my upper half dry, but water streams off the back of the umbrella into the top of my backpack. It rains harder and the trail turns into a muddy stream. I see tarps in a campsite at the junction with the Forney Creek trail. Two guys are walking up to the tarps. I join them. They had been out for a couple of nights and are headed back to the car back at the Tunnel trailhead. They are also from Roswell. One tells me about a 70 year old woman they met that was on a 23 mile day hike with a single bottle of water and fanny pack.

The Forney Creek trail has very few if any water breaks. Water runs down the trail until it hits the stream. The stream is chocolate brown. I can see why. With such a poor design surprises me that the trail isn’t a deeper ditch. I notice that the ridge trails without nearby creeks to muddy up are better engineered with plenty of water breaks and lateral slopes. It seems to me that the priority should have gone to those trails that follow creek banks. Rains would destroy these trails along with the creek.

The creek is swollen with rain, but crossings aren’t bad. I have to wade through, but I don’t have to worry about being swept off my feet. An obvious highlight is a waterfall, which I will call Forney Creek Falls. It is a smooth rounded rock slide into a small pool. I climb further and find that there is more rock slide falls farther up. Each section probably rises 40 feet or so.

The trail is steady gradual climb. Much of it is old roadbed with with switchbacks reinforced with high stacked rock walls. As usual, the CCC did a great job with this construction. The trail road occasionally dips up and down into a crossing ravine where there was obviously a wooden bridge in the CCC days. It is midday, about 12:40 PM and it grows dark in the woods. Rain falls harder and thunder rumbles. I stop for a minute to play with the trail stream, opening a flow off the side of the trail and diverting water with a couple of rotten logs.

Civil Conservation Corp built this wall at a switchback on the Forney Creek Trail

I reach Forney Ridge and hike the mile to the Clingmans Dome parking lot. A few tourists are braving the rain and clouds to make the pointless hike to the top. I join them, but I don’t bother climbing the observation deck to see the 300 foot view into fog and clouds. Of all of the times I have been here I think that maybe once the sky was clear enough for a view.

At the end of a long climb from Fontana Lake to Clingman’s Dome.

Back down Forney Ridge and another 1.7 miles to Andrews Bald. The spruce trees are thick on this section and again it is dark and spooky.

At the Bald, I set up the tarp in some large spruce trees on the east side (away from the wind). It is a cozy spot. I pull my sleeping bag out of the stuff sack inside a garbage bag. It is very wet. Not good, but their is still a nice hot supper to look forward to. I unload my Idahoan instant mashed potatoes and I set up my cat food can stove. My lighter doesn’t work. I retrieve my 2 “backup” lighters from their ziplock bag. They don’t work. Not good. Now I wish that I had that magnesium stone/flint. Cold tuna fish for supper. No hot mashed potatoes. I also eat some more of my almonds and raisins and gaze at my oatmeal and coffee and think about how good they would have been in the morning.

September 12, 2010

10 miles – Andrews Bald – Forney Ridge Trail – Springhouse Branch Trail – Nolan Creek Trail – Benton McKaye (Road to Nowhere back to Tunnel Parking Lot) note::: I did not hike the last mile of Nolan Creek Trail to Fontana Lake.

One of my lighters worked this morning! I was able to have my oatmeal and coffee after a very uncomfortable nights sleep in a wet sleeping bag. I had put on my fleece jacket and rain pants, but the lower half of my body stayed chilled with the wet sleeping bag. There was also a lightening storm and more rain during the night.

I was up in the dark when the first peak of red was peaking through the heavy clouds down in the valleys and lower mountains. It was a beautiful sunrise with clear skies up on top and billowing clouds rising out of the valleys and rolling over all but the tallest mountains. I retrieved the food bag that I had hung between two spruce trees and after breaking camp, I was on the trail at about 8 AM.

Morning View from Andrew’s Bald

After descending from Andrews Bald, Forney Ridge trail is a nice level ridge walk with a good path. It is my favorite kind of trail. It feels so free and open on the ridge tops. I think I like these sections much better than the closed in creek trails.

Upon reaching Springhouse Branch trail, I was again on trails that I had already walked. I enjoyed seeing my old campsite (from Sept 2008) at Mill Branch. It brought back memories of listening to radio shows on the MP3 player that described the financial crisis that was taking place at that time. It was kind of scary.

From this point I followed the portion of Noland Creek Trail that I had never hiked. It was an easy road walk. Finally, I looked up to see the overpass of the Road To Nowhere extending above the tall trees. It was kind of wierd to suddenly see that man-made structure out in the middle of the woods.

Forney Ridge Trail was a pleasant walk with some old growth oaks.

Nolan Creek

October 3, 2010
Hughes Ridge Trail Hike – Great Smoky Mountains

Itinerary:

Smokemont on Bradley Creek Trail to Chasteen Fork Trail to Hughes Ridge Trail to Pecks Corner.

Return down Hughes Ridge Trail to Bradley Creek Trail intersection back to Smokemont.

February 6^th, 2010, Saturday

At 5:00 AM I am in my car headed toward Cherokee, NC.. Around Topton, NC where US 129 turns toward Robbinsville, NC I begin to see the remnants from last week’s snowstorm on the side of the road. Descending into Nantahala gorge, a little mixed freezing stuff hits the windshield.

My hike begins in Smokemont campground and climbs on the Benton McKaye (Bradley Fork Trail & Chasteen Creek Trail) most of the 3000 feet where Pecks Corner Shelter sits. Water streams down the middle of the logging road that snakes its way alongside Chasteen Creek. Soon, my feet are wet. A little while later, I am struggling with short inefficient steps on slippery snow slush. It is above freezing, mid-30’s, but lightly snowing.

The Snowy Trail

The trail is a good one, mostly logging roads and well graded switch backed trails along the entire weekend’s route. At a little higher elevation, I begin the snow crunch and the post holing. My feet break through the upper frozen crust, then sink 3 – 6 inches. This is extremely exhausting. I move slower. I reach Hughes ridge trail and continue slowly as the trail goes ascends and descends, but mostly maintains a plus 5000 foot elevation. I count the tenths of a mile as I pull the trail info from my pocket to locate myself on the elevation profile. I have plenty of time to make the shelter, even if I were to go 1 mph. I try to pace myself and I take frequent breaks as my legs turn to rubber and my lungs begin to struggle. Nobody has broken trail. As far as I can tell, nobody has been up here for at least a week if not longer

.

I finally spot Pecks Corner Shelter. Untidy. A tarp hangs across the entire length of the front. Trash piled in the chimney. Junk, broken lantern, poncho, rope, sleeping pad, blanket, etc. lay stacked in the corner. Smoky Mountain National Park back country reservations told me that there was only one space available after mine. I am alone. With the closure of 441 over Newfound Gap, the easier hiking routes via the AT aren’t possible. This and the snow must explain the no-shows. The exertion killed my appetite, but finally I get motivated to prepare Spicy Ramen Noodles with Chicken for supper, although I eat them without real hunger. I listen to podcasts, read Tarzan of the Apes on Itouch, and I stay warm in my sleeping bag. It continues to snow.

February 7^th 2010, Sunday

I waken about 6:30 AM. It is still dark, but I think that it wouldn’t hurt to start my water for the oatmeal and climb back into my sleeping bag. I reach for the hood portion of my sleeping bag as I begin to pull myself half out of the bag. I reach out into space over the edge of the 5 foot platform and begin to feel myself grasping air as the weight of my upper body extends over the edge of the platform more than counterbalancing the lower half still in the sleeping bag. Like a seesaw slowly changing direction, I slowly flip over the edge headfirst, landing 5 feet below on my upper back. I remember thinking, “don’t let me get hurt bad enough to make it impossible for me to get off the mountain”.

It was a great landing. No broken bones, no pain, rather it felt like a friendly whack on the back. The excitement awakened my adrenaline and I no longer wanted to crawl back into my sleeping bag. It is amazing how a flip off a 5 foot platform can warms you up and get you going in the morning! I step outside the hanging tarp to find a few stars lingering just before daybreak. In a few minutes, a cloudless sky was revealed

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Here I am early in the morning, ready to head off the mountain after an acrobatic dismount from the sleeping platform!

The snow was nicely frozen and easy to walk on without punching through. A half inch layer of powder cushioned each step. I doubled back down Hughes Ridge trail, this time turning down Bradley Creek trail. Bradley Creek trail was nicely switched back. A fairly even down sloping trail with an undisturbed snow cover, it would have made a perfect ski slope. If only I had skis; I could have zipped down the winding trail.

Farther down off the mountain, Bradley Creek trail became a road that followed the creek gorge. Nice bridges were at every creek crossing. I began to notice more animal tracks. Turkey, squirrel, bird, rabbit, raccoon, razorback pig, coyote, and bear were just a few of the more interesting tracks. One set of tracks seemed to drag a claw in a straight line between prints. According to the tracks, a coyote had made its long way up the road that morning. Another animal had reacted and scurried away. The coyote peed at one point and a earlier in its journey it had left its droppings containing matted animal hair.

February 10, 2010
Eagle creek double loop hike

Eagle Creek Double Loop Hike – Smokey Mountain National Park

This hike starting at Fontana dam completes a double loop formed by hiking up to the Appalachian Trail on the NC/TN divide 2 times via Eagle Creek, then by Hazel Creek, returning to the NC valley via Jenkins Ridge and Welch Ridge respectively. Highlights of the trail are the areas documented by Horace Kephardt in “Our Southern Highlanders” when he lived near Hazel Creek / Jenkins Ridge near the settlement of Medlin for 3 1/2 years in the early 1900’s.

Sept 2009 Reservations – 865-436-1297 Permit 75447

61.9 miles hiking distance over 5 days.

Friday night – Fontana Hilton Sat

Tue, Sept 5, 2009 – Campsite 86: total 16.6 miles Wed – : total 9.6 miles

Day 1 , Sept 5

Fontana Hilton on AT to Lakeshore Trail is 1.5 miles, on Lakeshore Trail 5.2 mi to Lost Cove Trail, Eagle Creek trail 8.7 mi to Spencefield shelter, Appalachian Trail 0.6 miles to Jenkins Ridge Trail for 1.8 miles to Gunna Creek (17.8 miles)

Hiked from Fontana Hilton over dam and was treated to the sight of a bald eagle climbing and climbing up the valley and finally over the 400 plus foot dam. It circled over the lake and finally settled on a tree top on the Smoky Mountain side. Lakeside trail, former hwy 288, had a number of rusted out old cars from the 30’s. Saw my first wild pig razorback. It had long legs and was black. Standing in the trail and not noticing me. Cool!! Eagle creek was very easy to cross. Not like December when it was a raging river. The next to last part of the Eagle Creek Trail ascends steeply. It is a leg buster. Ridge Runner older couple had tent set up at Spencefield. They questioned me and when I told the lady that I didn’t have resaevations at Spencefield, she told me that she was a ridge runner and that I wasn’t welcome. I went on up the trail and told people I met that I was headed down Eagle Creek. Actually, I headed to Jenkins Ridge. Wanted the Ridge Runner to think I was camping at 97 on Eagle Creek. I’m actually stealth camping of sorts on Jenkins Ridge at Gunna Creek. Only flat place for miles. Trail is overgrown with nettle and blackberries. Not ideal spot, but it is home with rain now coming down with me laying under my tarp, nestled in my down bag with a belly full of mashed potatoes and wine.

Razorback Hog on Lakeshore Trail – Notice the bristles standing up on its back!

Day 2, Sept 6

Gunna Creek on Jenkins Ridge Trail 7.1 miles to Hazel Creek Trail, Hazel Creek Trail 0.8 miles to Bone Valley Trail, Bone Valley Trail up and back to Bone Valley Campsite 83, 3.6 miles – (11.5 miles)

Litted and Tied up the corner of my tarp to open it up like a lean-to. Made more room for cooking. Didn’t want to chance a storm as I ate breakfast. Began raining a couple of miles into the hike. Crossed tailings of a couple old copper mines. Saw a side trail going uphill with only a no horses allowed sign. Found a cemetery on top. Later learned that it was Higdon cemetery. There was one grace just outside the boundary of the cemetery with a stone reading “A Black Man”. It was a man who died in the Spanish Flu epidemic in 1919. He worked for Ritter in the logging operation and died while helping others with the flu. Maybe that was why he was welcome at this cemetery, sort of. At Bone Creek I set up my tent lean-to style in order to give me more room. It opens toward the creek which runs about 25 ft away. After settling in and eating tuna fish wraps for lunch, I Took a hike up Bone Valley to see the Kress Cabin and another cemetery. Saw a bear in the middle of the road. Got a photo, but the flash was enough to make him move off the road. Wish I could have gotten closer. Back at camp, I did laundry and took a bath in Hazel Creek. Now I smell good! Noticed that my boots are coming completely apart fr the sole. It seemed like the Gortex wasn’t keeping water out. Now I know why! Guys at the campsite were Rick and Cairo from TN. They were 61 years old and had canoed across Fontana then hiked up Hazel Creek. Shared their dehydrated apple crumb cake. Thanks guys!

Post Office at the Settlement of Medlin (Now the campsite at the intersection of Jenkins Ridge Trail and Hazel Creek Trail.)

Bear!!!

Day 3, Sept 7th

Hazel crk tr 1.3 mi to intersection with Cold Spring Gap trail, continue on Hazel Creek trail 8.1 mi to Welch ridge trail, Welch ridge 1.7 mi to Siler Bald shelter: total 11.1 miles

Hazel Creek trail was nothing like Jenkins Ridge. It has a gradual climb with plenty of switchbacks. The lower portion follows a road where tire tracks can be seen. The middle portion is a true trail that requires many rock hopping creek crossings. Saw a great number of animal tracks, but none of the owners. Did not see anyone until I reached Silar Bald on the AT. Soon after I summited on top of Welch Ridge, I noticed darkening clouds directly ahead. There was a drenching rain shower just after I made Silar Shelter at about 1 PM. Ate yummy mashed potatoes for lunch. Visited with passing through hikers. My shelter mates are Terry (big man, bigger backpack) and Craig from Knoxville. Terry is a first timer carrying over 50 pounds. He hiked the 6 miles from Clingman’s Dome and was exhausted. He was out for 10 days, but already rethinking his trip. He brought a full sized coffee pot and brewed us some coffee. Saw a buck and doe at our bear line. They were scampering and playing before taking much notice of me. Once I moved back, the buck again approached the bear line. Got a photo of the buck. My Ridge Runner pals showed up for the night. As they walked up, I loudly said, “Well, it’s the Ridge Runners”, in order to ruin their sneaky cover as regular hikers. They later started giving a couple of late arriving kids a hard time about not having a hiking permit, but they did offer to make arrangements to get them set up with a permit. Well, at least we had shelter monitors for the night. I go out here to get away from people telling me what to do.

Day 4, Sept 8th

Appalachian Trail to 0.7 miles to Welch Ridge Trail 7.3 miles to Cold Spring Gap Trail (side hike to High Rocks 0.6 mi), 3.5 miles to Hazel Creek Trail, follow Hazel Creek Trail 6.5 miles to Lakeshore Trail, Lakeshore Trail toward Fontana approx 1 mile to Campsite 87 (Campsite 87 is not on maps or guide) – (19.6 miles)

Went out of shelter to use the bathroom and saw glowing eyes of a deer on the trail just in front of me. Later when there was a little light, I went back and when I came around the corner there was a buck about 15 feet from me. Terry was up before 5 am cooking and making noise. I didn’t mind, but I wondered about the others. After about 5:30, I finally decided to get up for an early start. Welch ridge was a pleasant walk, but overgrown in places with blackberries. I tried identifying some of the plants. There was the orang jellybean plant; similar to Solomon’s Seal. There was a plant that always growing over the trail that had leaves like green bean plants and whip like racemes withe tiny white buds running the length. Did not see any one until I arrived back at Bone Valley CS. Now I sit by the campfire at unmapped CS 88 without seeing anyone other than the 2 fishermen at Bone Valley. Pleasant level walk on road along Hazel Creek for over 5 miles. Stopped for a refreshing swim and wash. The Gennet Magnolia overhanging the river had bright red fruit. The sun was shining through the green leaves of a river birch. I found a sunny rock in midstream for my rest spot. Nearer the site of the former sawmill town of proctor, I spied a large old building through the trees. I had to look several times to make sure it was really a structure and not an illusion. Took photos of this giant brick and concrete structure. This turned out to be the old drying kiln for the sawmill. It had dikes in front where the log pond had been. Missed my campsite at Proctor. I should have crossed the bridge at Proctor and headed east on Lakeshore Trail. Instead, I went west on Lakeshore. I finally stopped to check my map and saw the error. Instead of turning back, I went on. I was lucky that in a short while I came up on campsite 88, a site that is not on the map. The campsite had plenty of dry wood nearby so I built a campfire. I had the camp by myself and had only seen the 2 fishermen all day.

Cabin at High Rocks with Chestnut Shake Siding.

Day 5

Campsite 87 on Lakeshore to trail to Appalachian Trail near Fontana 8.6 miles, 1.5 miles to Fontana dam and on to Fontana Hilton (10.1 miles)

Again, didn’t see anyone while hiking. Hiked these last 10 miles quickly, finishing before noon. Had a great view of a ptarmigan. This was my 3rd sighting since yesterday. They always startle you, but you rarely get a good look at one. Also came up on a couple of turkeys. It was humid. I put away my hiking poles for the last couple of miles. Nice change for the easier terrain. While crossing Fontana dam I began losing my balance. A work crew was jackhammering the cracks in the pavement along the road that traverses the dam. The dam was swaying. At more than 400 ft tall, the dam is scary enough when it doesn’t move. I walked faster.

September 27, 2009
High Water on Eagle Creek

I left directly from work Friday afternoon and drove through Robbinsville, NC on the way to Twenty-Mile Ranger Station in the Smokies. Along the way it had been raining and as I reached Robbinsville there was a mix of rain and snow. I arrived late at night with the snow coming down. Several young guys arrived and parked soon after I pulled in. They were planning to night hike to the top of Gregory Bald. My plan was more modest and involved hiking a mile or so into campsite 93 where I would spend the night.

December 11th – 13th, 2008

The next day I hiked to Eagle Creek where I had planned to walk to Spencefield Shelter. As I rounded the bend over Campsite 90 I heard roaring water and saw a river that reminded me of a small Colorado river. The water was rushing over rocks and seemed to want to carry everything away.

Crossed here twice at 1st ford, once in each direction.

I had not consulted my brown book and if I had, then I would have known that there were at least 15 fords of Eagle Creek. I made it across the first crossing and at the 2nd crossing I made it to nearly mid-stream when I felt myself about to go weightless. The current was pushing hard against each leg and against each hiking pole. I strained to stay upright as the current swept away one of my hiking poles. At that point I knew that I had to return to the bank, but wasn’t sure I could make it. Very carefully I shuffled along the rocky bottom and made m way out of the strongest current and back to the bank. I couldn’t believe that there were already 2 fords and I thought about a reattempt, but first I consulted the brown book. With the brown book stating that there were at least 6 – 7 difficult crossings with some of the later crossings harder than the first, I knew that it would be foolish to continue on Eagle Creek trail. I returned to Lost Cove Campsite 91 where I built a fire and attempted to dry out.

My route traced in blue.

Snow! Twenty Mile Gaining Elevation

Snow!

Snow Encrusted Sign on AT at Twenty Mile Intersection

AT End of Lost Cove Trail

Shuckstack Fire Tower in Snow

Eagle Creek on Lakeshore Trail near Campsite 90

Water is high on Eagle Creek after 2 days of December Rain

Mark at Eagle Creek

Crossed here twice at 1st ford, once in each direction.

Lost Cove Campsite 91 the next morning after the Eagle Creek attempt.

Boots frozen solid with Eagle Creek Ice

Day old frozen footprints of Mark seen when I backtracked the next day back up Lost Cove Trail

Back to the top of Lost Cove and the AT sign is no longer covered with snow.

Taking a break at Campsite 113 on the AT.

Bear Tracks off Gregory Bald Trail

Cades Cove from Gregory Bald

Sheep Pen Gap Campsite 13 was very windy and cold. I slept in 2 sleeping bags and all my clothing.

Partridge Berries, Yummm!

December 13, 2008
What Growls in the Dark?

This is a 5 day backpacking hike from Round Bottom along trails between Mount Guyot and Cataloochee.

November 4th, 2008 – Beech Mountain Trail and Balsam Mountain Trail

I was all packed and ready to drive directly from work to Round Bottom where my plan was to night hike 4.5 miles to Laurel Gap Shelter. Traffic on I-85 in Atlanta was awful, but I was on my way soon enough. After a wrong turn in Cherokee and some wandering through the Cherokee Indian Reservation on a night time search for the the Straight Fork Road turnoff I finally made it to Round Bottom much later than expected. By the time I started hiking, it was nearly midnight.

I set off at a quick pace with my headlamp guiding the way. The woods seemed to close in on me and I didn’t feel relaxed. It didn’t help that in the dark the starting point seemed a particularly remote spot located miles up a gravel road. This night hike was a climb of over 2000 feet and soon I was high enough to make out the large dark form of a mountain opposite the mountain I was climbing. I reached a freshly fallen tree that as luck would have it fell lengthwise across the trail. The side of the mountain was very steep so going around was nearly impossible. Going through the maze of branches was equally difficult in the dark. After much struggling, I managed to climb through the fallen canopy and skirt some areas by climbing around on the steep bank.

Moving on I continued to ascend. Suddenly I heard several loud deep grunts just above me. I kept walking and turned my headlamp to the brightest setting and looked through the woods above in search of the source of the warning call. Whatever it was, it was along side me, neither in front or in back. I continued moving up the trail only to be further rattled when the deep grunting sound followed along above the trail. I scanned the woods with my headlamp several times. Never seeing anything, I kept moving. The sound kept moving along with me while maintaining its distance. Not wanting give the impression of prey, I moved deliberately. Before long the sound stopped and I moved faster to put distance between myself and whatever had been lurking up above me. As I hiked, now moving faster than ever I wondered what it could be. I thought perhaps a deer that was defending territory. Once while hiking near Grayson Highlands I had a deer (in daylight) make a similar sound as it stamped a hoof to warn me away. Maybe I was just hoping my creature was a deer. It could just as well have been a bear, but by the sound of it, it was definitely a large animal, either dear, bear, or wild hog.

I finally topped out and reached Balsam Mountain trail after some flat terrain and easier climbing I found the turnoff sign for the shelter. A man and his son were surprised to see someone hike up after 1 AM. They had a fire going in the fireplace and the shelter still had fencing and gate across the front. After my earlier encounter, I was only too glad that the park service had not yet taken down the chain link fencing from the front of this shelter.

My route is traced in red. Started and finished at Round Bottom. November 4th – Beech Mountain and Balsam Trail to Laurel Gap Shelter (4.5 miles). November 5th – Mount Sterling Ridge, Baxter Creek, and Big Creek trails to CS37. (16.5 miles) , November 6th – Camel Gap Trail, AT, Balsam Mtn Trail to Laurel Gap shelter (16.9 miles), November 7th – Gunter Fork Trail, Swallow Fork Trail, Pretty Hollow Gap Trail to CS39, November 8th – Pretty Hollow Gap, Palmer Creek Trail, Straight Fork Road to Round Bottom (approx. 9 – 10 miles)

November 5th – Mt Sterling Ridge

Mount Sterling Ridge is the kind of hike that I like. It is a high elevation relatively flat ridge walk with cool breezes and views. In addition, it leads to the attraction of a fire tower making it a top spot to hike in the GSMNP.

Big Creek Trail was another easy hike. This wide flat trail follows the creek and would be make an ideal beginners horse trip. I hiked quickly in order to push out the last 5 miles as a thunderstorm threatened.

Mt Sterling Fire Tower

The prettiest yellow autumn colors I have ever seen are on Baxter Creek Trail. SO YELLOW, the light filtering through the trees seemed yellow.

November 6th – Camel Gap Trail and Balsam Mountain Trail

Camel Gap Trail involves a climb that leads through open mountain laurel tops. Balsam Mountain Trail is all high elevation with some narrow ridge walks making it another of my favorites. I was often stepping off the trail to check out views from open ridge spots.

Returning to Laurel Gap Shelter, I took down food supplies that I had cached on the bear cable the day before. Someone had stolen my boxed wine and left me some undesirable food that they must not have wanted to eat or pack out. I spent a 2nd night at Laurel Gap Shelter. The shelter, one of 3 that are not on the AT has a grassy area and sits at a spot over 5000 feet making it my favorite shelter. Another reason I like this shelter is that it has Mt. Sterling Ridge and Balsam Mountain trails nearby.

November 7th – Ups and Downs

Down Gunter Fork Trail back to where I had camped 2 nights ago, then up Swallow Fork Trail crossing Sterling Ridge Trail. Finally down Pretty Hollow Gap Trail to my campsite.

At CS39, I built a campfire and laid down next to it until late. For the first time on this trip, I was camping without any other campers in the area.

November 8th – Hiking out to Straight Fork Road

It was a cold morning, but the climb up Palmer Creek Trail warmed me up. Later, when during what seemed like an endless walk down Straight Fork Road, I was cold, particularly my hands.

Not sure where I am, but I am obviously worn out. This may be when I took lunch at Pretty Hollow Gap after climbing Swallow Fork trail. I was pretty worn out by that point.

November 8, 2008