Category: Smoky Mountains

Shuttled from Tunnel Road to Nowhere to Fontana Marina by one time resident of Hazel Creek. – Marina Ferry to Hazel Creek. – Backpacking with swim breaks. – Chambers Creek. – From lake elevation to over 5000 feet on Bear Creek trail to High Rocks. – Tunnel Bypass Trail – Goldmine Loop Trail – Lower 1 mile of Nolan Creek trail.

Day 1, September 26, 2014 – “Meeting original resident of Hazel Creek for 17 years”

Hazel Creek to Chambers Creek (Campsite 98) – 14.6 miles

Getting there:

Thursday night I arrived at the tunnel outside Bryson City and slept in the back of my van. No moon and clear skies made the Milky Way and stars spectacular. I had arranged a pick up at 6:30 AM Friday morning by Gene Lamey. Gene pulled up about 5:45 AM. I explained that I had arrived late the night before. It took me only a few minutes to put on my hiking boots and grab my pack. Gene is 86 years old. He lived 3 or 4 miles up Hazel Creek until he was 17 years old. In 1944, after Fontana Dam was built the government moved all of the people out and promised to build a new road on the north shore of the new lake. The old road to Bryson City was submerged in most places.

As Gene drove, I asked a few questions with the hope that he would share stories of the time he lived in the Smokies. Gene talked about coon hunting up Cold Spring Gap toward High Rocks and he mentioned that there were a lot of bears this year with all of the acorns. “There were a lot of grapes, but Bears won’t eat grapes.” He told of how you could pay the mailman 50 cents to give you a ride from Hazel Creek back to Bryson City (about 30 miles). The mailman made his run twice a week.

I told Gene about my hike on Hazel Creek trail where I saw large buildings in the woods. He explained that these were the drying kilns for the lumber mill. They weren’t torn down because they weren’t made of wood. He said that during WWII with men sent to war, the boys cleaned off the mud and rocks picked up in the bark of the logs. The older men rolled the logs off the train.

I paid $25 for the one way ferry from the Fontana Marina to Hazel Creek. The one-way charge to Forney Creek is $110. I had expected the ride to Hazel Creek to be a short hop directly across the lake, but it was actually much farther. Luckily, I had not decided to plan a trip where I kayaked across.

Some Geography:

A better name for this post might have been “Hiking the Welch Ridge” area. Within an hour of hiking I had climbed from Hazel Creek to a high point (2300 ft) on the lower end of Welch Ridge. I could have taken the direct route, bushwhacking straight up the ridge and through a few intervening gaps to High Rocks. Instead, I continued on Lakeshore trail over the next 2 days before reaching High Rocks. My first night’s campsite, nearly 15 miles down Lakeshore trail, Chamber’s Creek, flowed from Welch Ridge. For three days I was hiking along and around Welch Ridge. Finally, on the 3rd day, I crossed the lower part of Forney Ridge and went beyond the Tunnel to hike the lower part of Nolan Creek (Nolan Ridge). From Hazel Creek, the main ridges in order running toward the AT are Welch Ridge (to Silars Bald), Forney Ridge (to Clingman’s Dome), and Nolan Divide (to Clingman’s Dome).

The hike:

Lakeshore trail is long and at least for me mentally, seemed very long. Hitchhikers covered my socks and shorts and even my shirt. I eventually began listening to some Bob Dylan and Grateful Dead. It wasn’t until I took a couple of breaks to swim in the lake and eat lunch that I could shake the boredom. I noticed persimmons growing in the shallow lake bed. I tried some of the ripest looking persimmons were spread beneath these trees. They were still bitter. I began noticing bear scat full of persimmon seeds.

After the 2nd swim break, the trail leveled on a road covered with wildflowers. A male goldfinch skittered along ahead of me for a while moving from perch to perch. My mood shifted to the glorious.

At Chambers Creek I set up my campsite and went back to the lake for a swim. In the clear water I could spot small trout. Eventually, I spied 2 large trout about 18 inches long. I laid on the beach in the sun and later brought out my supper to enjoy the last views of the sun. The channel opened up with a nice view of a mountain that I guessed was Cheoah Bald. This reminded me of the rainy and foggy day hiking the AT when I crossed Cheoah Bald.

A large group of mostly young canoeists had paddled in from 4 miles up the lake. They camped at the next tent site further up the creek. Other than these camper-canoeists, a couple of fishermen on the lake, and a pair a couple miles from Hazel Creek (probably locals paying respects at one of the many cemeteries), I saw no others. I was the only one out for an overnight hike of this trail.

Day 2, September 27, 2014 – “A last swim in the lake and climb to High Rocks”

Chambers Creek to Forney Creek on Lakeshore Trail – 6.6 mi, Forney Creek to High Rocks via Bear Creek Trail and Welch Ridge Trail – 6.3 mi, Return to Poplar Flats Campsite 75 on Bear Creek – 3.3 mi, Total distance – 16.0 miles

This Lakeshore Trail seems like it never ends. After the usual morning glow of hiking I began wondering how much further and began tracking progress on my Iphone GPS App. This app nearly got me into trouble the night before when I very nearly walked past Chambers Creek. The map and the trails didn’t overlay correctly at times making it appear that the campsite was on further at the top of the next ridge. This morning the app made me thing that I had an inlet to walk around before reaching an final inlet that was Forney Creek. I soon found out that the inlet I was already following was Forney Creek.

I stopped and made my way around to the right side bank to avoid bothering a couple of men fishing the creek from a boat. Working across the steep lake bank, the sandy bottom gave way and I caught myself with my hiking pole. The pole bent double and broke in half when I tried bending it back.

The last swim was nice. I used a boulder to deposit my things and floated around in the lake. I liked dropping down to just where my eyes were lake level where I would look across the still water to the mountains beyond. It was a peaceful perspective.

At the campsite near Forney Creek I met and spoke to a couple from Knoxville, TN. They had been thinking about hiking to High Rocks and back to Forney Creek, but were thinking better of leaving that late on a 13.5 mile hike. Later after I had set up my camp at Poplar Flats they came hiking up Bear Creek trail. They had changed their minds and had decided to hike to High Rocks even if it might mean some hiking in the dark.

I completed Bear Creek trail and visited High Rocks for the 2nd time. The first was when I hiked Hazel Creek, Welch Ridge, Cold Springs Gap and much more. I noticed as I moved away from the lake that the bear scat no longer contained persimmon seeds. Up on Welch Ridge again, I thought a lot about how it would feel to continue up the ridge to Silar’s Bald shelter. When hiking I used to talk to myself and think about all sorts of things and ideas. Now, I hike quietly and if I think of anything it is about other hikes. I see rocks, ridges, trees, trail beds, etc. that trigger memories of other trails and other hikes. I suppose I have this large store of memories of hikes that I did not have years ago when all I could do while hiking was talking to myself, memorizing poems, or dreaming up wacky ideas while I hiked. Other hiking thoughts are often devoted to the latest pain or soreness. When I was younger I thought about the piece of my body that currently hurt the worst. I wanted to stop and rest. Now, I think about the pain that could be a sign of getting old. Now, the worry is worse than the pain. Will that slight soreness in my right knee get worse and leave me unable to walk? Will that pain in my back radiate to my hip causing me to be unable to go on?

Supper was the 2nd night of Tofurky spicy sausages (meatless). This time in red beans and rice with a little Stovetop Stuffing mixed in. I drank a cup of coffee before bed. Between the coffee and the sloped ground under my tarp, it was hard to sleep. I turned around to put my head uphill, but that left my feet sticking out from under the side of the tarp. No worries about rain, but unable to sleep, my mind naturally wandered toward bears making sleep even more impossible. I occasionally got up to throw the remaining wood on the fire.

Day 3, September 28, 2014 – “Finishing all of Lakeview Trail and all trails southwest of Bryson City”

Bear Creek trail below Poplar Flats campsite is downhill and gentle and becomes easier as it becomes an old road. Once back on Lakeshore Trail the ups and downs start again. I don’t recall exactly, but at one point I believe that I climbed up to 2800 feet. The temptation was to walk back to my car and complete the trip, but I had to detour and recross my path some in order to pick up the Tunnel Bypass Trail and the Goldmine Loop trail. I hiked these unremarkable trails that were more like a replay of Lakeshore trail. I actually hiked Goldmine Loop without a pack since I first returned to my van via Tunnel Bypass trail.

After returning to my car the 2nd time, I drove to Nolan Creek and hiked 1 mile out and back on the Nolan Creek Trail between the road and Fontana Lake. Nolan Creek trail was an easily walked road along a beautiful creek. It would be a nice place to revisit for an easy walk some day. Maybe with Sandra. Gene Lamey told me that the government occasionally opens the gate to Nolan Creek trail drives earlier inhabitants and their descendents up Nolan Creek for a visit to their origins. They do something similar on Hazel Creek.

This hike included 2 difficult climbs of Mt Le Conte in hot humid weather. I carried a fully provisioned backpack including a food filled bear vault up the Bullhead Trail. A bicycle was used to travel the short distance between trailheads of Grapeyard Ridge and Porters Creek of this near loop walk. The hike covered nearly all hiking trails in the triangle formed between Greenbrier Road, Mt Le Conte, and Gatlinburg.

Itinerary:

Total hike (44.8 miles, including a mile down and up Roaring Fork Road in wrong direction.)

Day 1 (August 29, 2014) – Night hike – Grapeyard Ridge (Greenbrier Cove Road) trailhead to campsite #32. – 3.2 miles.

Day 2 (August 30, 2014)- Grapeyard Ridge Trail to Roaring Fork Motor Trail – 4.4 miles, Baskins Creek Trail – 2.7 miles, Old Sugarlands Trail to Bullhead Trail – 1.0 mile, Bullhead Trail – 6.4 mi, (Total 14.5 miles)

Day 3 (August 31, 2014) – Trillium Gap Trail then Rainbow Falls Trail to Le Conte Cliffs, High Top and Myrtle Point

Day 4 (September 1, 2014) – Trillium Gap then Brushy Mountain top, then Brushy Mountain Trail to Porters Creek trail to Greenbrier Rd, then bicycle to car parked at Old Settlers trailhead.

Getting There:

Follow Greenbrier Road northeast of Gatlinburg up the Pigeon River and park alongside the road near Grapeyard Ridge trailhead or across bridges to left at one of the pull off spots near Old Settlers trailhead.

Day 1 – “Night hike over 5 stream crossings”

Night hike – Grapeyard Ridge (Greenbrier Cove Road) trailhead to campsite #32. – 3.2 miles

I dropped my bicycle off at the Porters Creek trailhead just as the last light of the day was vanishing. As usual, it was hidden in the woods and locked to a tree. A short while later (8:41 PM) I had started the hike. Having read of 5 (sometimes wide enough for wet feet) creek crossings, I chose to hike in Chaco sandals. To mark my progress and to avoid missing campsite 32 or straying onto crossing paths and roads, I had reviewed the trail elevation profile with creek crossings marked along the profile with “x’s”. Never entirely comfortable with lone night hikes I moved fast as I counted off crossings. I had one scare. A rabbit jumped out of the undergrowth and ran down the trail toward me.

There were actually 8 crossings of water, however, only 5 of these rightly deserved mention as true creeks. The creeks were low making the Chaco’s an unnecessary precaution. By 9:45 PM I had reached the sign for campsite 32 where I found a family with young children already settled in for the night. There were a couple of tents pitched and a couple of hammocks. I set up my tarp in a grassy spot not far from the bear lines. My left “next to pinky” toe had a puncture or bite of some kind. It was painful with an infected red puffy look. As I tried to sleep I discovered that the young children were not quite asleep yet. An owl hooted nearby. The young children hooted back. It was quite some time before they settled down. It is a nice feeling to be safely in camp after a long drive from Roswell, GA and a 3 mile night hike.

Day 2 – “Hurtful humid climbs”

Grapeyard Ridge Trail to Roaring Fork Motor Trail – 4.4 miles, Baskins Creek Trail – 2.7 miles, Old Sugarlands Trail to Bullhead Trail – 1.0 mile, Bullhead Trail – 6.4 mi, (Total 14.5 miles)

Reaching Roaring Fork Motor Trail, I turned right along the paved road. According to my National Geographic Trails Illustrated Map, Baskins Creek Trail was down Roaring Fork Road about a quarter mile or so. After a half mile of following Roaring Fork Motor Trail with no luck (the road crossed the creek, leaving it on the wrong side of the road in relation to Baskins Creek trail), I turned around and headed back toward Grapeyard Ridge Trail. Still not finding Baskins Creek Trail, I kept going, this time the other direction on Roaring Fork Motor Trail. I found the well marked trail with its own parking lot to the left (direction against Motor Trail one way traffic), not to the right as indicated by the map. It was only about 100 feet from where Grapeyard Ridge trail intersected Roaring Fork Road. My map is out of date. The trail re-location makes sense. It avoids a creek crossing and climb while moving the Baskins Creek trailhead much closer to the Grapeyard Ridge trailhead. It would be nice to have a sign or two directing hikers in the correct direction to the next trail.

Baskins Road trail is relatively tame until you reach the turnoff for the falls. After that point it begins a long steep and brutally hot climb back toward Roaring Fork Road. I saw a great many weekenders including children, youth, families, and elderly hiking toward the falls. They all asked how far. I told them 20 minutes. Most didn’t appear to be carrying water. Given the heat and the climb back from the falls, I wondered how much suffering there would be later on.

After having already been wiped out by Baskins Creek trail, I soon had to start climbing Bullhead trail with a full backpack. My muscles were sore and I plodded on. I checked my progress by checking elevation using my Iphone’s GPS app. With Bullhead starting at 2500 feet and the intersection with Rainbow Falls trail at 6000 feet, I logged my progress. I was a sweaty mess while freshly showered nice smelling and well coiffed Le Conte lodge residents regularly passed me on their way down. About halfway I stopped at a cool place where water streamed down rocks. I soaked my shirt in the cold water and put it back on. I lay on a flat rock and stared up at the branches of large oaks where tiny squirrels chased each other along branches and across trees. The squirrels ran down the large trunks faster than the free-fall of gravity. If one had fallen, the other would have literally been at the bottom of the tree first, waiting to catch his buddy. These tiny mountain squirrels are much faster than my fatter backyard squirrels. Very entertaining. It even took my mind off the exhausting climb.

Day 3 – “A mother dear and doe”

Trillium Gap Trail – 8.9 miles, Rainbow Falls Trail – 6.7 miles, Le Conte Cliffs – 0.4 mi, and Myrtle Point 0.4 mi (Total – 16.4 miles)

I was surprised to wake to the early light of dawn. Evidently, I had been sleeping hard. I had dreamed of park rangers trying to rouse me from my sleep to the point of pulling me along by dragging my sleeping pad. After breakfast of maple and brown sugar oatmeal with apricots and coffee, I packed my day pack and began a loop back down Le Conte via Trillium Gap with a return up the Rainbow Falls trail. I didn’t see anyone until well past Trillium Gap. A few people had early starts to the Le Conte lodge via the Trilliam Gap trail. Upon arriving at Grotto Falls I would encounter large numbers of people for rest of the day. Most people were climbing to either Grotto Falls or Rainbow Falls. Beyond those points, the people thinned out. The trail leads behind Grotto falls. One of the lower falls had an inviting pool of water, but I decided not to take a swim.

Near the end of Trillium Gap trail, a young couple appeared in front of me. I was moving fast on this level trail and at first I thought I would catch and pass this couple. They walked faster, then began running. I stayed close enough to see them still ahead on the beginning section of Rainbow Falls trail. Later I met them at Rainbow Falls. It turned out that they were both in the Army and were used to running. This couple was the exception. Most people were struggling on the climb up to Rainbow Falls. The crowds were so large that they actually slowed down my pace as a waited to pass slow movers. On the way up a few of us were entertained by a doe and fawn deer. The doe was licking her fawn. Very motherly.

As a precaution, I carried about 2 liters of water, but I found plenty of water sources along this trail.

The previous day I did not spend much time on Mt. Le Conte. I had carried a full pack and was worn out. This day I made good time and arrived at the top about 3 PM. I could have made it much sooner, but purposely slowed down by taking a long lunch break and Rainbow Falls and taking a side trail to a ridge overlook somewhere around 5200 feet elevation. With an early arrival, I climbed to the cliff tops and ate again. I took off boots and socks and tried to nap on the rocks. I continued on the trail where I saw the Le Conte shelter and Myrtle Point.

There were plenty of bear activity and warning signs near the lodge. I thought it was a little overdone with mention of bear attacks. They are going to scare these lodgers to death.

Day 4 – “An early starter is an early finisher”

Le Conte to Trillium Gap – 3.6 mile, Brushy Mountain top round trip (0.4 mi), Brushy Mountain Trail (4.7 mi), Porters Creek trail to Greenbrier Rd (1 mile) Total (9.7 miles)

Walking down Trillium Gap trail from the top of Le Conte, it was only a little after 7 AM when I surprised a man on his way up. He wore running shoes and gear and wore a headlamp. Before I reached Trillium Gap (9 AM), he had already climbed to the cliffs on Le Conte and caught back up with me. I expect that he would be back at the Grotto Falls parking lot well before 10 AM. Now that is a early round trip hike (or run) up Mt Le Conte!

The 0.2 mile spur trail to the top of Brushy Mountain, actually the last portion of the Brushy Mountain trail, provides nice views. Looking back toward the southwest, Mt. Le Conte was obscured by clouds. Toward the east is a good view of Mt. Kephart. Although I had descended a great deal from Mt. Le Conte, I was still at 4600 feet on Brushy Mountain.

Descending Brushy mountain trail from Trillium Gap, I quickly entered areas of giant dead Fraser Firs and Red Spruce. With the sunlight now streaming in, stinging nettle and other sun loving plant life had grown alongside and over the trail. Brushing by the nettle on Brushy Mountain trail produced irritating stings on my legs. I had to stop several times to scratch the sting away. Everything on the upper half of Brushy mountain trail made for tough walking. Seemingly dry rocks were slippery. I skied down one flat smooth rock that I had misjudged as having a gripping tread. It was a relief to reach the clear and easily walked 2nd half of Brushy Mountain trail.

This 2 day solo backpacking trip covers a walk from the road below Purchase Knob into the GSMNP to Mckee Branch and Boogerman trails returning via Caldwell Fork trail to camp at Caldwell Fork (Campsite 41). Return the next day via Hemphill Bald and Cattaloochee Divide trails. This hike had several areas with enormous Poplar trees (Boogerman and Hemphill) and open views at Double Gap and the Swag. Historic piled rock walls could be found along Boogerman. Purchase Knob area included old Ferguson Cabin.

Getting there:

Left the house at 4:20 am and I was in Maggie Valley at 7 something. Took Hemphill Rd and drove toward Swag Inn and on toward Purchase Knob. A short way up The unpaved road I reached a closed gate. Driving up to the lot for the Appalachian Highlands Science Center wouldn’t be possible, but the park official I had spoken to on the phone had warned me about getting trapped behind the locked gate if I tried. I parked at a pullover right in front of the gate and began my hike about a mile short of McKee Branch Trail. From the gate, hike about 0.7 miles up Purchase Knob road. After you reach the 2nd opening in the trees and just past some large Christmas Trees on your left, you will see signs for a Horse Trail and Ferguson Cabin leading toward the left.The Horse Trail divides with the lower route becoming a foot trail to the cabin. Either direction will eventually lead to the signed junction of Mckee Branch trail / Cattaloochee Divide trail.

Day 1, May 31, 2014 – “Oscar, My hiking partner.”

Route: Total Distance 11.6 miles

At gate on Purchase Mountain Road to horse trail on left ( 0.7 miles) to Mckee Branch trail (0.4 miles), Mckee Branch Trail (2.3 mi), North on Caldwell Fork and Boogerman (4.4 mi), South on Caldwell Fork trail to Caldwell Fork Campsite (3.8 mi).

As I pulled up to the gate, Oscar, a lab mix dog, was waiting for me to get out of the car. After seeing that he was friendly, I rubbed his head and set out up Purchase Rd.. It was a pleasant hike up the closed road. Oscar led the way, occasionally diving off the road to chase the occasional bird. I took the horse trail at the sign to Ferguson cabin. (Stay to the right, unless you want to visit the cabin.) This trail leads right into Mckee Branch trail. Near the Cattalooche divide Oscar looked ahead and began a low growl. The hair stood up on the back of his neck. There was something unfriendly out there. I walked south on the divide looking for a good signal. After checking in, I was ready to drop over the ridge and out of communication for 2 days. Returning north on the divide, Oscar’s hair went back up at the same spot on the trail that it did before. Something was out there and Oscar didn’t like it.

Horse traveled McKee Branch was a muddy descent most of the way. There wasn’t much fun in hiking it. At the park boundary I tried to get Oscar to go back home. Of course, no luck. I have never been able to make any dog go home.

The Boogerman trail was both scenic and easy. After a few climbs it leveled out and stayed on the level or gradual downslope most of the way to its northern junction with Caldwell Fork trail. The few ascents passed by stacked rock walls that reminded me. Of the Old Settlers Trail. This was followed by sights of enormous Poplars. There were 2 hollow poplars large enough for a person to shelter in. Next was a very small cove with a grove of large poplars. Also look for a giant double poplar (on right) and a hollow poplar (left) with an opening made from lightning strike that extended off 50 feet up the trunk.

Oscar will walk through the trickling water of muddy horse trail and then lap up drink from the stirred and muddy horse polluted water. Funny how dogs don’t need treated or filtered water.

By 2PM, I was reading The Reivers on my Kindle and napping under my tarp. It started to rain and Oscar laid down under my tarp as directed.

Later, as I was finishing up dinner of rice and Tofurky sausage, a couple of guys and a girl passed. As usual, Oscar would have followed. I explained that he wasn’t my dog and I took them up on their offer to lead him out and call his owner.

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It rained most of the night and became very dark. Others were camping nearby. My headlamp batteries were dead. A glowing bug occasionally crossed in front of the tarp. I woke in the middle of the night to the sound of a distressed girl in the rainy darkness asking, “is anybody there?”. It seemed so real (and spooky) that I sat up and looked around.

Day 2, June 1, 2014 – “The Swag Inn or Ferguson Cabin?”

Ferguson cabin

The Swag Inn

Route: Total Distance – 6 miles

From Caldwell Fork Campsite (CS 41) on Hemphill Bald trail to Double Gap – 3.0 miles, North on Cattalooche Divide trail pass the Swag to junction with McKee Branch trail – 1.8 miles, Foot trail past Ferguson Cabin to Purchase Mountain Road and down Purchase Mountain Road to closed gate – approx. 1.2 mile

Above: See the tiny looking hiking poles leaning against the large poplar.

Above: Hollow Poplar Tree

The rain had stopped and I set out before 7 AM with my coffee in my go-cup. It was nice to have a footbridge at the campsite crossing. The last time I was here, I had to walk through the stream.

Having not reviewed the trail guide, I was surprised to find yet more large Poplars along Hemphill Bald trail. Cattaloochee valley is a great place for these enormous trees.I was also surprised at a turn the trail took near the top where it began descending near where it had just come up. It almost made me believe that I could have started walking the wrong way, only I had not stopped so such a mistake would have been difficult.

The opening vista at Double Gap was refreshing, particularly since it provided fresh views and cooler breezes after a long warm climb.

The paradise that is the Swag Inn is perched along the trail. Thinking it would be a nice place to stay, I later checked the rates. I guess $400 – $900 per night is out of my price range; my stays in the Smokies are $4 per night.

The Ferguson Cabin is an interesting place; at about 5000 ft it is the highest historic residence.

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This outing had two parts with two locales. First, I day hiked a loop from Twenty Mile ranger station to Gregory Bald and back. Next, I hopped into the mini-van and drove to Abrams Creek ranger station and finished the day by packing to Little Bottoms campsite for the night. The next day and half were spent hiking parts of the Abrams Creek, Cooper Road, Hatcher Mountain, Cane Creek, and Hannah Mountain trails that I hadn’t already hiked. All that is left for me to hike in the Twenty Mile and Abrams Creek areas is the 2.5 miles of Abrams Creek trail from Cades Cove to the falls.

Gregory Bald Loop Day Hike

Day 1 – November 23, 2013

Total Loop Distance: 16.6 miles

Route:

Twentymile Ranger Station to Sheep Pen Gap on Wolf Ridge Trail – 6.3 mi
Gregory Bald Trail – 1.2 mi
Long Hungry Ridge Trail – 4.6 mi
Twenty Mile Loop Trail – 2.9 mi
Wolf Ridge Trail – 1.6 mi

Early Morning Start before Sunrise

Campsite 95 on Wolf Ridge Trail

Completed Long Hungry Ridge

Gregory Bald Area Trail Signs

My Iphone alarm went off at 5 AM Saturday morning. I laid in the back of the Sienna mini-van with it backed into the gravel parking area; hatchback open over Twenty Mile creek. Within 15 minutes I was on the trail with day pack and headlamp.

Having crossed a footbridge about a half mile past the Long Hungry Ridge trail junction I rounded a bend with high rocks to the right and creek to the left. Two sets if yellow eyes set in the dark playfully bounded toward me directly down the middle of the trail. I halted and backed away a few steps. The glowing yellow eyes of the two animals bounced a little closer acting as if this trail belonged to them. I backed off further, turning my back slightly to these playful yellow eyed creatures in order to walk faster in the opposite direction. All the while I guided my headlamp back toward those yellow eyes. A blow of my whistle didn’t send these animals fleeing. Could be bear cubs? The eyes were spaced at least 12 inches apart and rode about 2 feet above the trail and I wanted to avoid something larger that might be lurking nearby. I retreated back a couple hundred feet to the footbridge where I sat on the bridge on the far side of the bridge and cooked my oatmeal and coffee breakfast while waiting on the beginning of daybreak.

Later at home, I googled animal eye photos in the dark. I couldn’t tell much other than that these were not bear eyes. Bear eyes are glowing round, while these eyes were slanted.

The forest was dripping and the fog was heavy. No views on Gregory’s Bald. It was usually warm on the climb, but at times I met an incredible transition where the temperature dropped and little icy filled rain drops seemed to jump as they pelted the leaves of the footpath.

On this early Saturday morning I saw no other hikers other than a lone Forest Ranger on his way up Long Hungry Ridge trail. When finishing up the last quarter mile of Twenty Mile trial to the parking lot, I met a couple of groups headed up the mountain for the night. The last was a group of off-duty Army soldiers starting out with their heavy rucksacks.

Rock seems to point toward something on Wolf Ridge trail. This well built trail had an even grade over a long climb.

White Pines in mist on Parson’s Bald

Abram’s Creek Area

November 23, 2013

Route:

Cooper Road Trail to Little Bottoms Trail – 1.3 mi
Little Bottoms Trail to Little Bottoms Campsite 17 – 1.6 mi

I parked at the parking lot outside the closed Abram’s Creek campground, then packed up enough food and equipment for two nights of hiking from Little Bottoms campsite. Hiking through the campground alongside Abram’s creek, I reached Cooper Road trail which was a long 10.9 miles from Cades Cove where I had hiked portions of this trail 2 weeks earlier. A steep climb on Little Bottoms trail starting near both the lowest elevation and lowest numbered campsite in the Smokies at 1200 feet and Campsite 1, (Cooper Road Campsite) soon returned me to scenic views of the creek.

A couple of groups were camping at the very large Little Bottoms campsite. This large flat expanse set in an area of trees easily had spots for tents way beyond its stated capacity. Nearby to the back of the camping area and just upstream there was the beginning of tornado blow down. Hiking upstream on Little Bottoms trail more blow down on the hill on the opposite side of the creek is a good marker to tell you that you are nearing the campsite.

One group of kids and adults were cleaning and hauling ashes from all of the fire pits. Great job kids!

Fortunately the rain and fog had cleared because due to the expected low temps I had traded my usual tarp for a single man tent and I soon discovered that it was missing its rain fly. The mosquito netting over my head made a nice night time view of the stars.

My campsite for 2 nights at Little Bottoms

I experimented more with tortilla wraps by stuffing them with new things. On my last hike I had Ramen Noodle wraps. This time I improved on this idea by filling wraps with the ready to eat red beans and rice that come in microwaveable foil packs by boiling the contents in water and adding enough instant mashed potatoes to the soupy mix to thicken them up. Delicious! … and easy, but next time I’ll add jalapenos or Tabasco (packets) and cheese. Sounds so good I might not wait for another hike to try this out.

After 19.5 miles of hiking the first day and during a 17 mile 2nd day, I found myself thinking about food a lot. For some reason I thought about baked chicken thighs with greasy dark flesh falling off the bones. Instead, for my mid-day hiking snacks I had peanut butter on round sandwich thins.

Day 2 – “To Abrams Falls”

Day 2 Route & Mileage – 17.5 miles

From Little Bottoms Campsite on Little Bottoms Trail to Hatcher Mtn Trail – 0.7 mi
Hatcher Mountain Trail – 2.6 mi
Cooper Road Trail to Cane Creek Trail – 1.8 mi
Cane Creek Trail to end and return to Gold Mine Trail – 4.2 mi
Gold Mine Trail and return – 1.6 mi
Cooper Road Trail to Little Bottoms Trail – 1.7 mi
Little Bottoms Trail to Little Bottoms Campsite – 1.6 mi

Abrams Falls

For a Saturday, it was surprising that I never saw another person. This included the much frequented Abram’s Falls; however, with an early start I was probably long gone before others reached the falls.

Thanks to tornado cleared hillsides, the climb from Abram’s Creek up the Hatcher Mountain trail had nice views looking back over a now snow frosted Parsons Bald, Gregory Bald, and Sheep Pen Gap. Further up Hatcher Mountain trail upon rounding a bend I surprised 3 turkeys from a close range.

Cane Creek

Perhaps I was hoping to find a McDonalds at the Park Access on the end of Gold Mine Trail. I only found this barn. This short trail had some nice views.

Day 3 – “Friendly Hannah Mountain Trail” – 6.4 mi

Little Bottoms Campsite to Hannah Mtn Trail – 0.9 mi
Hannah Mtn Trail – 1.9 mi

Rabbit Creek Trail to Abrams Creek Ranger Station road – 2.7 mi
Road walk to Abrams Creek Ranger Station – 0.9 mi

To get to Hannah Mountain trail I had to cross Abrams Creek. Although the crossing is wide, I rock hopped most of the way only to find myself on a large flat rock beyond which was a deep channel hidden from view on the other side. I was just a little too wide for a jump. I sat and removed my boots and rolled up my pants for a few quick plunging steps in the cold water. Just as I mounted a grass patch on the other side, I let a hiking pole slide from my hand. It seemed to float downstream in slow-motion. The creek not being particularly high, it seemed like it would be easy to fetch, but it was impossible to move down the side of the bank in the few quick necessary steps needed to snatch up the pole. Turning to move more quickly, I took my eye off the pole. Although feeling sure that it would have caught on rocks somewhere nearby, I never saw the pole again. Now I have a complete set of poles on rocky bottoms somewhere in the Smokies. One in Abrams Creek and the other in Eagle Creek.

Hannah Mountain trail is such a pleasure to walk. Without steep grades and roots or rocks, it just goes forever winding through the mountains. I found the west end of Hannah Mountain trail from Abram’s creek to Rabbit Creek trail to be much the same as the friendly easy walk as the portion east of Rabbit Creek that I had hiked two weeks prior. About 7 minutes prior to reaching Rabbit Creek trail, I crossed a nice water source.

Rabbit Creek trail was a nice climb, then descent to Abram’s Creek. The climb had nice views back toward Gregory and Parson’s Bald and the descent provided views of the houses perched on the Chilhowee range.

By 9:30 AM I was back to my car at Abram’s Creek Ranger station.