There are 11 of us backpacking from Stephens Pass to Snoqualamie on the PCT. The group ranges in age from mid- 20’s to 70 years old.
Tunnel Creek Trailhead to junction at PCT on Hope Lake
2.6 miles
Saturday, July 19, 2015
We unloaded the van and started toward the PCT. we picked and ate Salmon Berries and Blueberries. Hope lake was small but deep. I took a couple of swims and was never able to dive to the bottom.
Great to finally be on the PCT!
After a week of packing, making lists, repacking, and changing equipment decisions I am finally sitting at the gate waiting on my 10:30 PM flight to Seattle.
My pack weighed in at 36 pounds which is heavy for a light weight packer for me. Reason for extra weight includes a real tent because I heard about mosquitoes and 7 days of food. Normally I pack a tarp tent and no more than 4 days of food.
The plan is to hike 75 miles on the PCT trail over 8 days with Dan and Kathy Bowden and a bunch of their friends. Here we go!
My back was sore and I couldn’t get in a comfortable position on the flight. The space was so small that my head hit the seat in front of me when I tried to lay it down on the tray table. Finally I got the idea to put my day pack on the tray table raising the level so my head could reach and making a nice pillow.
I arrived in Seattle and set up a spot to sleep just outside the SeaTac Light Rail Station. Now for 4 hours sleep. Here I am at my first camp spot on a bench.
June 27 – 29, 2015
From Magazine Branch Campground and Boat Ramp on Calderwood Lake via one man Ocean Kayak (Yak Board) to campsite on Slickrock Creek, then hiking Slickrock Creek trail past Lower Falls and Wildcat Falls to Big Fat Gap and returned to campsite via Windy Gap, Nichols Cove, Yellowhammer, and Slickrock Creek trails.
Early morning view from Calderwood Lake down channel of Slickrock Creek.
Many others were sleeping in their cars, tents, and hammocks. They were up late so I didn’t get much sleep.
Launch point.
It was less than a mile downstream to the Slickrock Creek entrance.
While paddling to Slickrock creek hugging the far shore when I came upon a duck with about 8 – 10 ducklings. While watching the duck family skitter away across the calm water I suddenly heard a couple of loud snorts on the bank to my back. I looked over and imagined that I saw a bear in the shadows. I wondered momentarily whether a bear could swim out to my kayak and whether I could out paddle it. It turned out to be my imagination. The bear was an old stump and the snort turned out to be a river otter who would stick his head out from the rocks to warn me away with his otter barks.
That evening after completing the hike from base camp I took the kayak out to explore further downstream.
Over a single weekend I completed day hikes in 3 separate areas of the Smoky Mountains. This completed the last of the 900 miles of trails that I have hiked in the Smoky Mountains.
May 30, 2015 – Roundtop Trail – 7.5 miles
One end of Roundtop Trail is at the Wye (a fork on the Little River) where the river turns toward Townsend, TN to exit the Smokies. The other end is at Wears Gap. There is no trail sign or bridge on the trail-head at the Wye. With all of the recent rain, I was worried that I would have to swim across the Little River; however, for some strange reason the water was low.
I parked at Wears Gap and rode my bicycle to Metcalf Bottoms, then along Little River Road to the Wye. Mountain Laurel was in full bloom all along the trail. Although the book states that this is a little hiked trail due to the river crossing, I saw 4 others while hiking this trail. Two ladies were members of the 900 mile club. One of them finished in 2 years. It was taking me 35 years to complete the 900 miles; however, I only made hiking all of the trails a goal about 7 or 8 years ago.
May 30, 2015 – The Balsams – Flattop Mountain Trail – 2.7 miles, Spruce Mountain Trail – 2.4 miles round-trip, Balsam Mountain Trail to Beech Gap Trail junction and return – 4.6 miles (Total – 9.7 miles)
After stopping at Subway for food in Townsend, I made the long drive along Little River Road, Hwy 441, and the Blue Ridge Parkway to Flat Mountain trail. Over the course of the weekend I had many sightings of wild turkey and a couple of sightings of Elk and deer. Most of the sightings were while driving from one hiking spot to another.
At Flattop I pulled over at the nearest trailhead and rode my bicycle uphill to the far end. Checking out Balsam Mountain Campground, one of the campers gave me incorrect directions to the other Flat Mountain trailhead. He was turned around and thought that the Blue Ridge Parkway was straight ahead. He tried to convince me that I needed to turn back. In fact, going straight ahead (the direction I was going) would have taken him to the long and tortuous one-way unpaved Balsam Mountain Gap Road and the other Flat Mountain trailhead.
Flat Mountain trail was a pleasant walk and very unique with a high elevation wet area with many intersecting creeks. Tall evergreens and grass covered understory with abundant trickling water gave the area a lush soft feel.
The drive down Balsam Mountain Gap Road to the next stop at Spruce Mountain Trail seemed like it would never end. I was surprised to see 2 cyclists on road bikes climbing up the rocky rutted road. Their tires were a little larger than narrow road bike tires. Perhaps they were 700 x 32 mm like those I have on my Novaro Randonnee touring cycle. Seeing this couple gave me the idea to try this climb on my Novaro Randonnee. Maybe I could climb to the top and camp at Balsam Mountain campground which in my opinion is the prettiest campground in the Smokies.
After driving miles, I almost gave up hope finding Spruce Mountain trail so I pulled over to examine the map on my Iphone. I quickly confirmed that I had not missed the trailhead. Putting my phone away, I started out again only to find the trailhead about 20 feet around the bend from where I had pulled over.
Campsite 42 is the only campsite in GSMNP that I have seen that did not have bear cables. At the end of Spruce Mountain trail, it is a difficult campsite to get to. Getting there means a long drive up the Blue Ridge Parkway and a longer drive still down unpaved Balsam Mountain Gap road. Finally after a 1 mile climb along a dead end trail you arrive at the campsite. This is a trail to nowhere although it actually leads to Polls Gap trail which is a former trail leading to Polls Gap. From Polls Gap you could access Cattaloochee Valley on Rough Fork trail. If you like privacy, campsite 42 is a good choice. I doubt you will have human companions.
May 31, 2015 – Lakeshore Trail to White Oak Branch Trail – 2.0 miles, White Oak Branch Trail – 1.8 miles, Forney Creek Trail to Lakeshore Trail – 1.5 miles, Lakeshore Trail to Tunnel trailhead – 2.9 miles (Total – 8.2 miles)
After a night sleeping in the min-van with the sunroof and windows open I was ready to tackle the last trail of the GSMNP that I had yet to hike. Today I would become a 900 miler. Only by oversight had I missed hiking the little White Oak Branch trail. I had passed it several times thinking that I had taken this “shortcut” trail to Forney Creek sometime in the past. While reviewing my blog and memories, I realized that I had never hiked it. Now I needed to go out of my way, hiking 2 miles in just to hike this 1.8 mile trail.
It was a beautiful morning with deer and turkey walking about. The Mountain Laurel on Lakeshore trail was in full bloom and seemed fuller and whiter than that on Roundtop Trail. Some of it was so clustered and full headed that it looked more like snowy balls of Crepe Myrtle.
I completed White Oak Branch and did a lonesome cheer and took selfies.
Even though it was a Sunday morning and everywhere else in the Smokies seemed crowded, I did not see anyone else on this hike until a pair on horseback rode up just before I reached the Tunnel. One treat was spying a beautiful bluebird which gave away the location of one of his nesting friends.
When I finished, about 5 horse trailers were parked or lined up to park. It looked like it would be a busy day on this trail after all.
May 2 -3
My wife and daughter joined me for a weekend get-away in Bryson City. It was a chance for me to show them a little piece of what I had been hiking in the Smokies for the past several years.
We didn’t rough it, but the inexpensive Relax Inn ($55) in Bryson City even if not luxurious, was near Main Street and practical. Leaving Roswell early Saturday morning we drove past Bryson City and continued on to Clingman’s Dome Road for a nice walk (Forney Ridge Trail 3.4 miles roundtrip) down to Andrew’s Bald. We were back in Bryson City having lunch at Jimmy Mac’s around 2 PM.
Sandra and Rebecca relaxing on Andrew’s Bald
Sandra and I on Andrew’s Bald with Welch Ridge in background. The prominent high point on Welch Ridge is High Top with great views.
We checked into the Relax Inn and Sandra did some shopping on Everett Street, then we headed over to Deep Creek where the 3 of us hiked the Juny Whank Falls Loop. Sandra and Rebecca continued on the loop as I walked and ran the horse trail to Deep Creek trail where we rejoined. I then walked quickly back up Juny Whank Falls Loop from the other direction to pick up that missing segment. With the running, my thighs were in pain. Finally, I ran/walked the remainder of the horse trail all of the way back to the Nolan Divide trail while Sandra and Rebecca drove over to pick me up.
We went out for dinner at https://www.facebook.com/AnthonysItalianRestaurantNC where we sat outside with a full moon and listened to live music. Across the street was the Great Smoky Mountains Railroad. Next we walked over to the Nantahala Brewing Company where we listened to an all girl band, Dogwood Winter and I enjoyed a little Trail Magic (ale).
Sunday morning we drove to the nearby “Road to Nowhere”. I had planned on amazing Sandra and Rebecca with a very dark and spooky tunnel, but it had been painted a light color, covering all but the most recent grafitti. The new paint lightened up the tunnel a great deal making it easy to see the ground as you walked to the other end. No longer scary.
We walked the Nolan Creek trail down to Fontana Lake and back up past the road before getting in our car and heading home.
March 20, 2015 around noon
Newfound Gap
The hike plan:
AT to Boulevard trail 2.7 miles, Boulevard to Le Conte shelter 5.4 miles. (Total Mileage – 8.1 miles)
Newfound Gap shortly after reopening of Hwy 441.
There was some snow and ice the night before, but I had good timing in reaching the Smokies just minutes after the road opened. Once hiking, I soon wished that I had my Yak Tracks to help hiking across many treacherous ice patches. I picked my way along rocks and the edge of the trail wherever possible and used my poles to avoid slips. The many day trippers were usually ill prepared having no hiking poles or good footwear, but it was a beautiful day for people to pile out of the car and wander up the trail.
The absence of foot prints in the snow and ice made it clear that I was the first hiker on this trail for some time. I didn’t see others for rest of the day. The Boulevard Trail seemed to be mostly clear of ice until I began to ascend the final half mile at which point I moved out of the sun and onto a hard frozen ice covered trail. At that point it was a challenge to keep from sliding off the mountain. At one point, I covered a particularly tough stretch only to slip and glissade back down over hard conquered territory. I made it on the 2nd try. At times I wondered whether I might reach an unpassable spot and have to camp on the spot.
After careful and slow progress I reached the top only to slip and fall just short of the shelter. I fell hard on my back, but my backpack provided a great cushion and I hardly felt it.
I don’t know how cold it was that night, I guess around 15 degrees. After a visit to the cliffs and water run near the lodge, I ate and was in my bag early finding it the best way to stay warm.
At 10:30 pm I was surprised by 5 guys arriving from Miami. They had hiked the Rainbow Falls trail (without poles or yak tracks). They finished in the dark and started to camp in the lodge when the caretaker ran them out and directed them to the shelter. They were on the first day of a 7 day spring break hiking trip that looped to Hughes Ridge, Enloe Creek, Laurel Gap shelter, Old Settlers Trail, and Grapeyard Ridge trail back to start. I told them how tough the first piece of Boulevard would be in the morning. They had gotten a late start because 441 was closed and they chose to detour around. I asked what time and they told me 11 AM. I told them that it was open when I passed through the gate at 11:30 AM.
March 21, 2015
The hike plan:
Mt Le Conte on Boulevard trail to AT – 5.4 miles, Jump Off trail out and back (0.6 miles), AT to Dry Sluice Gap Trail – 1.7 miles, Dry Sluice Gap trail to Cabin Flats trail – 4.2 miles, Cabin Flats Trail to Cabin Flats campsite – 0.6 miles (Total mileage – 12.5 miles)
I took my time in order to start off about the same time as the Miami kids. I suspected they didn’t understand just how hard it would be to descend on The Boulevard. I visited Myrtle Point along the way and hung out until I heard their voices pass. Too bad they chose to bypass this nice spot! I soon came upon them clinging to branches, very slowly and carefully working themselves across ice. At times they were sitting down and attempting to slide without skidding off the trail and down the mountain. I was surprised to find that the trail was actually a little easier than the night before. The morning sun had been on this side for a few hours and made it possible to kick the tiniest of footholds in the ice with the side of my boot. With my hiking poles, this gave me enough traction to move surprisingly fast. The Miami kids on the other hand, had no poles. The tallest kid was being coaxed down by the others. I moved right past the group then slowed some to kick in steps way beyond what I needed hoping they would find them useful.
I met a guy named Ryan at the junction to the Jump Off trail. The Jump Off trail looked like a mini-glacier with ice pouring down the heavily rutted trail. Ryan and I set off toward Jump Off, gingerly hopping around the ice. Ryan pointed out that we had the exact same hiking poles. We had both ordered off Amazon. I enjoyed the remainder of my Subway sandwich while sitting on the overlook.
After returning the the main trail Ryan and I parted ways and I went on to Ice Water Springs shelter and Charlie’s Bunyon.
After turning onto Dry Sluice Gap trail the snow on the trail gradually became more sparse as I descended. From Dry Sluice Gap I did not see others until I was already set up for camp at Log Cabin Flats. A man – daughter pair showed up and a while later another man – daughter pair. This campsite made a good overnight spot for an easy loop hikes from Smokemont. Log Cabin Flats covers a large flat area alongside a surprisingly large stream. There is plenty of room for an army of hikers to overnight here.
March 22, 2015
The hike plan:
Cabin Flats trail – 0.6 miles, Bradley Fork trail – 2.3 miles, Smokemont Loop trail – 3.9 miles, Newton Bald trail – 4.7 mi (Total Mileage 11.5 miles)
I was up early and gone before any others at the campsite were awake. On Smokemont trail I ran into the family of one of the father – daughter pairs that had camped at Log Cabin Flats. They were hiking toward Cabin Flats with plans to meet up. These were the last people I would see until I came off the trail the next day. The Smokemont trail rose to the top of a ridge and continued to rise. It doesn’t look like much of a trail on the map, but don’t be fooled. It is a demanding hike. Nice views of Newton Bald along this trail.
It was still early when I started the Newton Bald trail so I took my time with some long breaks including a nap and lunch on a large rock above a cool looking overhang. I later had nice winter views of Clingman’s Dome from Newton Bald. I used my binoculars to zero in on the Clingman tower as the sun descended. Later, I had a nice campfire. During the night it rained some, but I left my tarp completely open one one side and stayed dry.
March 23, 2015
The hike plan:
Sunkota Ridge trail to Thomas Divide trail – 0.2 miles, Thomas Divde Trail to Newfound Gap Road 4.6 miles (Total mileage – 4.8 miles) Bicycle on Newfound Gap Road from Thomas Divide trailhead to Newfound Gap.
Hiked Thomas Divide trail out to Highway 441. Hiked in occasional mixed snow and rain. The rain and snow started up again when I began bicycling in heavy fog up to my minivan at Newfound Gap. I was in black rain pants and red Northface jacket with hood. I know that the cars that passed thought I was crazy to be riding near the top of the Smokies in conditions like these. I expect that they thought I had ridden from the bottom.