I needed a quick wilderness fix without a long drive, so on a Saturday afternoon, I quickly threw an overnight pack together and loaded my mountain bike on the car. Within a couple of hours I had left my car behind at the Horseshoe Bend Trailhead and was on my mountain bike tearing down a rocky forest service road back toward my cached pack near the lower Jacks River Trailhead. I forded back over streams which only minutes before I had carefully crossed using my daughter’s Nissan Sentra; now covered in mud, of course.
By 3:30 PM I was hiking upstream along the Jack’s river. As always, the water was crystal clear. I was surprised when I began regularly seeing nice sized trout clustered together on the bottom of pools.
Within minutes I had a nasty sting on the back of my left shoulder. Only a few minutes later, another sting. This time on a finger of my right hand. I wore my Chaco sandals and carried my tennis shoes on the pack. In my hurry, I had forgotten socks. By the end of the trip I had about 6 of bleeding raw spots on each foot. Each was where the wet, sometimes sandy straps made contact with skin.
I began counting fords. After 17 crossings of the river I stopped to check Tim Homan’s “Hiking Trails of the Cohutta”. I had passed the Horseshoe Bend trail turnoff without seeing it. No matter, I had planned to hike beyond the turnoff to find a campsite. I chose my campsite and took my second swim of the day in the Jacks. With plenty of time to spare and little to do, I built a campfire. It wasn’t cold and a fire wasn’t needed. Usually I don’t build campfires because I have hiked so long and hard that all I have energy for is setting up the tent and cooking. This day I had only hiked 4 miles of flat riverbank. The crossings were a little tiresome, particularly the 14th or 15th crossing where there was no obvious trail on the opposite bank. I finally found the opposite bank trail well upstream. Someone had marked it with a collapsible water bottle hung on a tree limb with a caribiner.
August 4th – View of Frog Mountain
I made my way back downstream over around 4 river crossings. The Horseshoe Bend trail picks up on the left bank (facing downstream). I see how I missed it the day before. The old wooden trail sign is hung on the upstream side of a tree, which would be the backside of the tree for anyone walking upstream. It was hard enough to see while walking downstream and constantly looking for it. Look for the area with an excellent open campsite and nice fire ring. The trail angles up the hill behind the campsite. The weathered wooden sign is camouflaged against the matching tree that it is nailed upon.
Horseshoe Bend is a steep climb for the first third of a mile. I soon reached a gap and looked over the other side to see and hear a crashing river. I was already on the left bank (going downstream) so how could another river be on my left? I later checked my map. It was the same river, only upstream from where I had turned off on Horseshoe Bend. The Jacks does an upstream turn behind Horseshoe Bend trail. In other words, Horseshoe Bend trail nearly cuts the “Horseshoe” curve of the Jacks. Someone upstream could have taken a big shortcut by climbing up the left side to where I stood.
Farther along I crossed along a ridge that was fairly open to the left. I am sure that I could see Frog Mountain (Tennessee), the highest point in the Cohuttas. It was nearly hidden in morning clouds. I was looking east northeast and the sun had clearly risen nearby.
Self portrait on the lower Jacks River – This was the only portion of the Jacks that I hadn’t yet hiked. This was also my first hike of Horseshoe Bend Trail.
Mark beginning hike portion of day at Old Settlers Trailhead at Greenbrier
May 4th, 2013 – Dodging Rain and Positioning Car
Old Settlers Trail / Gabe Mountain Trail to Campsite 34 (Sugar Cove).
After several missed turns and a long drive, I reached the Old Settlers trailhead some time after midnight. Rolling out my sleeping bag, I slept in the back of the van and slept with the calming sound of nearby Pigeon Creek. With the first hint of light I was up and scouting out a tree to hang my food bag and cached rest of my backpack and hiking boots.
A physically demanding day lay ahead. First, I cached my mountain bike at the end of the unpaved section of Greenbrier Road. Next, I drove the 15 miles to Maddron Bald trailhead off Hwy 321 where I parked the van and started the return trip on my road bike to the Old Settlers trailhead. Along the way, I stopped at a convenience store/gas station for a big pancake breakfast and large coffee. After 12 miles, I reached the unpaved section of Greenbrier road and switched to the Mountain Bike. The road bike was left hidden in the woods and locked to a tree. After about 3 additional miles of riding I was back to my backpack and food bag. Hiding my mountain bike, I switched to hiking gear and started down the Old Settlers Trail. Old Settlers is a very long trail that with wide loops which repeatedly winds is way up successive creek valleys and back down to pick up the next creek valley. Starting out I met another hiker just starting in the same direction. He was only walking a mile or so up the trail and returning. We shared company for a while. That was the last person other than a couple going the other way about 7 or 8 miles along my 18 mile hike.
Beyond Campsite 33 the trail suddenly had a great deal of uncleared deadfall. It was so bad in places that I backtracked a little to convince myself that I was on the correct trail. I also resorted to getting a GPS reading and locating myself on the map.
Pink Lady Slippers
Pink Lady Slippers were blooming in abundance and long mysterious piled stone walls lined the trail in places. In the solitude I wondered about the people that lived here and particularly wondered about the building of these walls. Over how many years did they pile these stones? What did they do within those walls? Perhaps raise a few cows and pigs, but maybe simply grew some corn and vegetables. The rock walls may have gradually risen as the garden was cleared of stones.
Hidden miles away in deep woods, these solitary stone walls are the settler’s physical legacy.Pigeon River Along Greenbrier Road
Heavy rain had been in the forecast, but other than a little shower on my morning bike ride, rain held off until I set up my Appy Trails Tarp Tent at Suger Cove campsite.
Finish 15 miles of bicycle riding. Ready for 18 mile day of backpacking, loaded with 4 days of food and fuel.
Under a very leaky tarp for a night of heavy rain.May 5th, 2013 – A Wet Night
Gabes Mountain Trail – Maddron Bald Trail near Hwy 321 – Approx 5 miles
After a wet night under a tarp (Appy Trails brand) that had been used a great deal, but not yet tested in the rain, I considered the forecast for heavy rain for the next 3 days. My sleeping bag was wet and much of what I had was muddy and miserable. The car was a tempting short backtrack of about 5 miles. I finally decided that I didn’t want another night under this leaky tarp. I packed my wet and muddy things and began the return trip up Gabes Mountain trail. A short distance from camp, I was rewarded with a drippy morning view of 2 peaceful deer moving alongside the trail.
Tarp is drenched. Puddle collected on lower end of tarp.
Cosby, Low Gap Trail to Big Creek Trail, return on Big Creek Trail to AT – 7.5 miles
Appalachian Trail (AT) to Mt Cammerer. Mt Cammerer to Lower Mt Cammerer trail to Gilliland Creek Creek Campsite 35. approx 9.2 miles
Total Day mileage – 16.7 miles
Climbing Low Gap Trail I first began noticing a tree with white flowers strung along underneath branches. Having read about the Carolina Silver Bell tree back when I was hiking the Slickrock Creek wilderness, I was happy to finally have seen it in bloom. In the days to come I would continue to see Carolina Silver Bell flowers both on the trees and covering patches of the trail.
Carolina Silverbell
Speckled Wood Lily
Umbrella Magnolia
Vasey’s Trillium
I dropped my pack in some weeds where Low Gap trail intersected the AT. I continued down the eastern side of the ridge all of the way to Big Creek where I had camped several years ago. I turned around and made the round trip back to my pack at Low Gap. On the way down I saw a curious little bird that made it’s nest next to the trail in a little opening between rocks. It startled me a little as it flew past me and settled on a branch above my head. I inspected the ground until I found the hidden nesting cave from which it had magically appeared. Meanwhile, the bird angrily chirped at me as it hopped from branch to branch.
Bird that went with eggs and nest under the rock. It chirped noisily at me to warn me away. Low Gap Trail northeast of AT near Walnut Bottom.Nest with 2 eggs. Bird nested in a recess up under a large rock.
I met a several people along the AT and soon encountered a ranger who checked my backcountry pass. I complained about the new system (implemented in February) this year that required payment for backcountry campsites. It turned out that this ranger was a “new hire” that had become employed using the collections from this new Park Service revenue stream. My guess is that the small amount collected would barely pay for the ranger or two that was hired to enforce the collections. I stopped for lunch at Mt. Cammerer and tried to relax as I watched dark storm clouds gather on the eastern ridges over the Big Creek valley. The no see-um and other tiny bugs made it hard to relax. There was a steady stream of visitors at the Mt. Cammerer overlook. Speaking with one of the visitors, I found out that he was an ultra long-distance runner.
The view from Mt. Cammerer is spectacular. It has an incredible prominence for these mountains which makes it easily identifiable. After about 5 more miles of hiking north on the AT and southwest on Lower Mt. Cammerer trail I came to a spot where Mt. Cammerer seemed to loom directly over my head. It had seemed that I had come the long way. From where I was the top of Mt. Cammerer seemed a short mile hike straight up.
View of Mt. Cammerer Observation Point about 5 trail miles away.
At Gilliland Creek Campsite all spaces seemed to be taken. I moved off the left of the trail and into the woods to set up my tarp in an overgrown area. I later found out that I was in the horse rider’s camp. Farther down the trail was a broad open area for hiking campers. Only a single tent was set up there. I was exhausted and moving a little slow, but the gentle downhill of Lower Mt. Cammerer trail had made the last several miles easy.
In a makeshift spot at Campsite 35, Gilliland Creek, Horse Camping Area
Day 2 – Big Poplars in Peaceful Rain Soaked Forest – 15.5 miles
Campsite 35 on Lower Mount Cammerer Trail to Cosby – 3.3 miles
Gabes Mountain Trail – 6.6 miles
Albright Cove Loop Trail side trip – 1.1 miles
Maddron Bald Trail to Otter Creek Campsite 29 (elevation 4560 ft) – 4.5 miles
It was still early morning and just beginning to rain by the time I walked up to the Cosby parking lot and hopped into my van. By the time I had driven back up highway 321 and settled into the snack bar at a gas station convenience store the rain was coming down hard. While waiting on an order of omelet and pancakes I drank coffee refills as I read the local advertising rag. I shopped the snack aisle. After a filling my stomach and cleaning up in the bathroom I felt recharged and ready for Gabes Mountain trail. By the time I returned to Cosby, the rain was tapering off; not to return.
The soothing muffled silence played through towering rain-soaked trees of Gabes Mountain trail. It filtered out sharper sound, leaving only the usually suppressed sounds of dripping leaves, far-away bird calls, and a light footstep. Such memories provide the sort of feelings I try my best to capture for later recall when needed.
Only yards before the intersection of Gabes Mountain trail with Maddron Bald trail I surprised a bear as I rounded a bend in the trail. The bear turned toward me and kept turning toward the lower side of the trail as he trotted off into the woods.
I had planned to lunch on a bench that I had recalled being on Maddron Bald trail right at this trail intersection. With a little apprehension, I put a short distance between myself and the bear before settling down to lunch at a sunny spot a couple hundred yards farther up Maddron Bald trail. Even then, I thought that the bear might smell my tuna fish and wish to return for a share of my lunch.
Albright Cove Loop trail didn’t seem to offer large Poplars any more impressive that Poplars I had seen on Maddron Bald trail or even parts of Gabe Mountain trail. I recommend Gabe Mountain trail and Maddron Bald trail as trails that be hiked to enjoy their beautiful large trees. In addition, Gabe Mountain trail is easily hiked without much slope and with easy trail bed. A day hike from Cosby to Hen Wallow Falls and return would be a less strenuous way to have an enjoyable day.
Otters Creek Campsite on Maddron Bald Trail
Day 3 – A long day of fast hiking along ridges, rocks, boulders, and creeks – 19.3 miles
1st Day – Starting out.
Top of Snake Den Ridge
Top of Kanati Fork Trail
Maddron Bald Trail to intersection with Snake Den Ridge Trail – 1.6 mi
Snake Den Ridge to Appalachian Trail and return to Cosby via Snake Den Ridge – 6.0 mi
Ramsey Cascades Trail and Return – 8.0 mi
Brushy Mountain Trail to Porter Creek Trail to Porter Flats Campsite 31 – 3.7 mi
I was easily the first one out of a crowded Otters Creek Campsite. By the time other residents rolled out of their sleeping bags, I was probably on Maddron Bald or perhaps at the AT intersection.
I moved quickly enough to surprise some guys camping along Snake Den Ridge a nice open, but unofficial campsite. Hope the trail police don’t find them.
Back to the van and another trip this time to the convenience store where I loaded up on Papa’s pizza and gatorade. Using their bathroom, I cleaned up again as I left socks, etc. draped over the van to dry a little.
By the time I loaded up and drove over to Greenbrier Road and crossed the Little Pigeon River to arrive at the Ramsey Cascades trailhead, it was past 3 PM. With the day growing short, I continued a fast pace as I began passing many other walkers on the way to the Cascades. The sun was dropping and it was growing late by the time I reached the falls. The last couple miles of the trail were difficult with rocks and boulders and uneven short steep climbs. I actually worried about a few slow moving hikers that had yet to reach the falls and needed to return before sunset; however, I had my own concerns. I had to return 4 miles to the trailhead, drive to Brushy Mountain / Porters Creek trailhead, and hike to Porters Flat campsite. Upon reaching the road portion of Ramsey Creek Trail, I began alternating runs with quick paced walks.
Large Poplar on Ramsey Cascades TrailRamsey CascadesDoglegged Bridge on Ramsey Creek Trail
At the Brushy Mountain parking lot I met a couple of guys getting out of the car. They were also hiking to Porter Flats for the night. After a few words, they started down the trail while I pulled out the remainder of a cold pizza from the box and began wolfing down supper while seated in the van. Packing up and checking my gear, I started up the road at a quick pace. About a mile before Porter Flats, I finally caught the pair of hikers. We made the campsite with plenty of time to set up in the light.
Hollow Poplar on Porters Creek TrailCampsite at Porters Flat
Day 4 – Kanati Fork Trail
Kanati Fork Trail and return – 5.8 miles
Returned along Porter Creek trail, then drove back through Gatlinburg and up 441 over Newfound Gap. At Kanati Fork trail I pulled over and did a quick day hike to Thomas Divide trail and back. I kept on the lookout for views of Newton Bald and believe that I was able to pick it out.
There were more bear and bear cubs than I bargained for during a week hiking thru Yosemite Wilderness North Country in September. On the 2nd day, I had the panic of running up on a couple of bear cubs and wondering whether I might be between an unseen mother bear and her cubs. On the final day, I was resting on the trail side when a mother bear and cub passed within feet of me totally unaware of my presence. Read on for more on these and my other experiences on this hike.
The Route
A 2 minute video tracing my route on a Yosemite trail map.
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Preparation
September 21, 2012
This is my third hiking trip through the Yosemite Wilderness and the earliest in the year. In 2009 and 2010 I hiked through snow. This time instead of mid to late October, I chose late September and found out just how hot and dry it could be in the high country.
I drove my rental car from Sacramento to the Merced Airport where I turned it in and caught the YARTS shuttle. (I was only the 2nd pick up all season long from the airport for this YARTS shuttle driver.) He was friendly and was celebrating his last run (ever) to Yosemite Valley.
As we pulled into the valley in the deep dark, he pointed out a several tiny pinpoint lights along the distant darkened wall of El Capitan. There were four or five interspersed lights in the form of a line leading straight up the wall. There was an another light off to the side and about half way up. I guess that was a climber with an independent spirit.
I exited the shuttle at Curry Village. I had been reading about the Hanta Virus infections and deaths at Curry Village. Plenty of friends had also helpfully warned me to avoid Curry Village and its tent cabins. It was pitch black, and with my duffle bag and backpack I excitedly began the trek to the backpackers campground. I had remembered the the campground being on the backside of a “pines” something or other campground just to the left on the opposite side of a stone bridge that spanned the Merced river. I passed South Pines, then Mid-Pines. It had seemed that I had come a long way and in the dark the entrance to Mid-Pines Campground looked familiar. The river was to my right and I hadn’t crossed the stone bridge. At the far back side of Mid-Pines, I realized that I should have turned left at the next campground. Instead of backtracking, I walked the the stream and climbed up the opposite bank to the backside of North Pines Campground. I wandered through a family’s campsie and explained what I was doing. It wasn’t long before I found the right path, crossed the footbridge and entered the crowded backpacker campground. In October 2010 I had this place all to myself. Now I had trouble finding a vacant spot and room for my gear in a bear locker.
September 22, 2012
The next logistical concern was getting my hiking permit. I was a little panicked with the thought of this many backpackers vying for a permit. I started off in the dark. Too early for the shuttles so I walked the entire way to Yosemite Village with backpack and with my duffel bag weighing down arms. I was at the Backcountry Office about an hour and half early. I sign on the window stated something about the earliest time one could receive a permit for the same day. It was confusing and had me wondering whether there was some rule that I had to wait until the next day to pick up a permit. All worked well and I was the first person in the park to be issued a permit that day. The next logistical problem was finding the right place to stow gear that I didn’t want to take into the backcountry, but first I enjoyed stuffing myself with all you can eat breakfast at Curry Village. It is about $14, but well worth it considering what I was about to put myself through during the next week.
I hopped on the shuttle, got off at stop 16 “Happy Isles” and wandered around looking for the Happy Isles Parking where bear lockers were available for gear to be left for a week or more. (My gear had been confiscated last year after I left it in a bear locker in the backpacking campground.) For everyone’s information, the place to put your gear is about halfway between shuttle stops 15 and 16 on the right side of the road. Either get off at stop 15 and continue down the road looking on your right for a dirt parking lot seen through the woods or get off at stip 16 and backtrack. To make things easier, pick up a shuttle map as soon as you enter the park or just print one off the website. This will help you find North Pines Campground (Backpackers campground is found by going all of the way to the back of North Pines by finding a path that leads behind and to the right across a footbridge.) Yosemite Village is where you pick up your wilderness permit. Best eating, free internet wifi relaxation (building straight across from outdoor pizza stand), showers, outfitters store (fuel, etc.), is at Camp Curry. Camp Curry is closest to backpacking campground and parking for Happy Isles (long term storage bear lockers). Now, there you have it. All of the most critical logistical info. Just know that October is the best month. No worry about getting a permit. No crowds. Maybe some snow.
The Hike
Day 1 – September 22nd
After running around the valley, getting hiking permit (walked there because the shuttles don’t run this early in the morning), stashing suitcase in bear lockers at Happy Isles parking lot (more walking with suitcase and backpack), and large AYCE breakfast at Curry Village, I took the shuttle to Yosemite Falls trailhead. The driver dropped me off at the lower YF trailhead. I guess the driver doesn’t know the difference between the lower falls and upper falls trail. More walking to the upper YF trailhead. The climb was brutal and hot. Farther up some breezes gave relief. There were plenty of other hikers including a boy scout troop that I seemed to exchange leads with. The falls were dry, but there were great views of the empty falls. I must return when they are running. After setting out along Yosemite Creek I only saw one other group of about 6 hikers. They had already heard about me. Evidently, while getting their hiking permit, the ranger told them that a solo hiker would be going in the other direction. They were doing a point to point headed back into the valley. Before leaving the creek I filled my 2 Liter from water trapped in rock ledge pools of Yosemite Creek. It wasn’t running water, but it didn’t look too bad. I was sure to add an extra dose of chlorine drops.
I camped on the west fork of the Yosemite Creek trail between Tioga Rd and the road to Yosemite Creek Campground. It was nice to finally be out in the wilderness.
Day 2
Walked through tall stands of red fir around Tioga rd.. At Luxen lake I saw 2 large bucks.
The trail was flat and very easy for miles. Past White Wolf the trail dropped nearly 4000 ft into the Grand Canyon of Toulomene. Great views and exciting at first, but the descent seemed to never stop. I was worried about my right knee. When I reached the Toulomene River I soaked my feet and right knee in the cold water.
Plenty of young hikers struggling uphill in the other direction with about equal numbers of male and female. All seemed to be doing well considering the heat and climb they were tackling. One guy that had come from Muir Gorge told me that a bear had grabbed a black garbage bag in which he had put his thermarest, cellphone, etc,. He showed the shattered cellphone and the cellphone case with teeth marks. He had also seen 2 other bears, a bald eagle, and a rattlesnake. He had seen the last bear only a short while before meeting up with me.
I finally reached the Toulomene River where I soaked my feet while gazing into the clear water and picking out fish. The river was running low. I enjoyed the relatively cool and quiet walk along the flat trail and tall pines bordering the river. I crossed the river out of Pate Valley and began climbing into a canyon. As soon as I reached a flat area in the lower end of the canyon, I set up camp. I sat out on a rock ledge looking over Pate Valley and looking up the Canyon Walls and across to what must be Ranheria Mountain. I relaxed there and cooked and ate dinner. I tried hanging out as long, but it wasn’t long after dark before I was under my tarp and wrapped in sleeping bag.
Luxen Lake
Day 3
The day before I considered climbing the canyon wall, but with the afternoon heat and difficult descent into the Grand Canyon of the Toulomene, I had decided to wait for cool morning temperatures make that ascent. It was a good decision. The wall would have been baking in direct late afternoon sun. It was shady and cool in the morning. Although the ascent is long with many switchbacks, it helped a great deal to be fresh.
After working my way well up the wall I found a couple of excellent camp spots behind which sat rocks and ledges that gave a nice view. A little further up a spring fed stream crossed the trail where dry rock and brown vegetation gave way to muddy grasses and Aspens. This area was where I had considered camping the previous night.
I began working my way up Roger Canyon and while I enjoyed the change from hot dry canyons to a lush green wood. The bears evidently also enjoy the lush green woods because it wasn’t long before I came up on two bear cubs that ran to the base of a tree directly perpendicular from my spot on the trail. Wanting to avoid putting myself between any unseen mother bear and her 2 cubs, I didn’t know whether to move forward or backward on the trail. After snapping a photo I decided to move forward. Unfortunately I was moving directly between the mother and her cubs. The mother was on the opposite side of the trail in front of me. She ran quickly across the trail and disappeared from sight. She was still in front with her cubs behind me so I began carefully moving up the trail toward the spot where the mother bear crossed. Once past that spot I felt slightly safer and I speeded up and began making some noise. Some people call my singing noise.
Rodgers Lake with Volunteer Peak in the background.
I have joined the Pacific Crest Trail
View of Volunteer Peak from Pacific Crest Trail
Campsite just a short climb up the canyon beyond Benson Lake.
At campsite with view southeast toward PCT and Benson lake. This rock was my dinner table.
I loved this campsite so much that I took more photos. This is looking back toward tent from rock where I had dinner with a view of mountains and waxing moon toward the south.
Yet another photo of the campsite.
Day 4
Saw a couple right at the end of the day, just after I threw my backpack down to set up camp.
The day started well. I had no trouble climbing to the Buckeye Pass canyon. I crossed the ridge early and instantly beheld a lake. I took a break and filled water bottles. I panicked for several minutes when I thought I had lost my 2 liter platypus water container. I was even considering using my pee container, a 48 oz apple sauce jar for water. Luckily I had just laid something on top of the water container. I have been worried about water the entire trip. I haven’t trusted the map. This 2 liter container would be one of the worst things to lose. It isn’t nice going without water in this heat. I carried 2 full liters down Rock Island Pass, up Mule pass, only to find myself camping next to a nice stream.
After the early morning climb I spent much of the day walking up long beautiful valleys with expansive meadows.
Sometimes the meadows reminded me of the clear Toulomene river winding through Toulomene meadows.
The valley had a beautiful stream running through meadow that was lined with rock mountains. Later it widened into a seemingly endless sandy trail running the length of the meadow. It was a relief to finally reach the spur for Rock Island Pass.
Still a long way to Burro Pass where I would reenter Yosemite Wilderness. Virginia Canyon 22 miles is where I camped after day 5.
Rock Island Pass – Leaving Yosemite Wilderness for a little while.
Snow near Rock Island Pass. The week was very hot and dry. It was well before the first snow.
Entering Yosemite Wilderness – The next several miles down hill at the end of the day seemed the hardest.
My campsite up the valley next to the SawTooth range. Nice spot with a creek running down the other side of the trail from my tent. High elevation and the coldest night yet.
View of the Sawtooth Range from my campsite. Earlier this year the outdoor writer for the WSJ fell to his death while doing a traverse of the length of this range. Hiking by myself, I was sure to stay on the trail. Another solo hiker had died only a half mile off the trail at Slide Mountain near Mule Pass. His body was found 5 years later.
Day 5
The water bottle left outside the tent was partially frozen this morning.
A quarter mile up the trail I was surprised to meet a couple breaking camp. She had thru-hiked the PCT. The couple had gone cross-country from Virginia Canyon to Matterhorn Valley. They were headed to Mono Village.
In the cold morning I warmed by climbing to Burro Pass. There was plenty of water with a stream running down the length of this alpine meadow. I believe those mountains are the Three Sisters? Brothers? Oh well, the three something.
Warmed up, I stopped to shed some layers and dry my tarp.
At the top of Burro Pass looking down the other side toward Matterhorn Peak and the Matterhorn Valley.
View from upper Matterhorn valley back to Burro Pass with the Sawtooth Range just beyond.
Finally reaching end of seemingly endless meadows along Matterhorn Trail, I sat down for lunch at intersection with PCT. As I prepared granola peanut butter and honey on cinnamon and raisin muffins, a deer walked up and made its way around me.
Plenty of good water all of the way down Matterhorn Valley, a running stream and several springs.
The PCT south started a long climb out of Matterhorn Valley leading to a lake. I counted on the lake for water resupply.
At top I didn’t see a lake and since the map showed the trail only briefly touching lake, I wanted to make sure I didn’t miss it. I got out my map and GPS IPhone. No satellite signal so I threw down the map and climbed a rock. Seeing that lake was ahead, I went on about 0.2 mi to lake. As I was relaxing by the lake I decided to study the map. I discovered that my map was missing. Leaving my pack, I backtracked at a jog to recover the map. I was a little worried that a bear would make off with my pack during my short absence and that I would be stranded in the north country without gear.
At Virginia Canyon, I set up camp along the stream where there was the last water for miles. Soon a ranger came up on horseback. He told me that more rangers were behind him. They were doing some sort of cross country exercise. The ranger said nothing about my tent so I suppose I was set up far enough away from the stream.
Among the group of rangers that appeared next was one named Mark who has logged 10,000 miles in Yosemite over 20 years. He looked a little like Rambo and easily carried what appeared to be a very heavy pack.
Camp at lower end of Virginia Canyon
Day 6
I began a long hike through meadows along a long dry trail through Cold Canyon. It seemed like you could see the trail for miles ahead. About a mile before Glen Aulin I met a couple and spent a long while chatting. The lady was an ultra-marathoner and had done a 100 mile run along a famous route in California.
Cold Canyon
The more I looked at it, the more fascinated I became by this rock in Cold Canyon. With the long open approach, I had plenty of time to ponder the size and shape of this distant rock. These are some of the things that occupy the mind of the solo hiker.
Cold Canyon. I recognized that distant peak from my 2010 hike. It looks like a Chinese man’s hat. Those peaks are near Tuolomene Meadows.
At Glen Aulin I walked around the High Sierra Camp and ate lunch at the waterfall. There were a few other hikers present.
Glen Aulin
I moved on down the trail past several lakes and another creek with stranded fish. At the end of the day I passed the point where I had originally planned to turn past Toulomene Peak to make my way back to the Yosemite Falls trail. Instead, I went straight ahead joining the portion of the trail I had hiked in 2009. Climbing again I could look back with a view of Matterhorn Peak in the far distance. This was the same view I had in 2009 when I was first inspired to hike to Matterhorn.
View toward North
View South. Clouds Rest
I climbed up a large rock outcropping about a quarter mile. It was very exposed and I trembled a little at the feeling that I could fall off, but it really wasn’t bad. I sat on top and took in views of many points I had visited in Yosemite. The sun was quickly dropping and I descended and hiked on to a small lake where I set up camp among the trees and boulders.
Campsite
Campsite
My dinner table for the night.
The kitchen.
The moon was my companion each night as it gradually became full.
Day 7
Solitary quests give appreciation for comfortable existence.
Morning at unnamed lake trailside near Mt Hoffman-
Relaxing here after coffee and dark chocolate while laying on my pad spread on boulder with my back against a tree. I watch the birds flit around and move in as groups as they work their way across granite boulder and pine branch. The small wandering of birds sips tiny peeps while another solitary bird perched atop a pine calls with loud caw. Like every morning the sky is perfectly blue. Warmth is given to each rock as the morning sun spreads.
That morning during breakfast, I pondered this rock.
Thoughts – advantages of blue foam over thermarest.
I hiked on past Mays Lake where I began seeing people who had walked up from the parking lot.
I have returned to May Lake 3 years later.
Cool campsite with a view of Cathedral Peak. This spot is hidden over rock wall formation from trail and May Lake. I suppose people at May Lake High Sierra Camp come here for a night of ghost stories and marshmallows.
In distant background you can see rock formation that I climbed the night before. It was scary.
On across Tioga Road I met a man who talked about the views into the valley from Mt. Watkins. He was looking for a cross-country shortcut to Mt Watkins. I read a sign about the glacier that had deposited the sand and bolders that I was walking through.
This boulder was left by a glacier. I remember this boulder from 2009.
All of the day’s hike was a redo of 2009, only in the opposite direction. I descended steeply and thought about how I had forgotten about this climb in 2009. It must have been challenging. Reaching Snow Creek early I sat to kill some time. I didn’t want to be in camp too early so I rolled out my blue foam and began munching snacks. I took off boots and socks to let my feet air out. I now had a signal so I started sending some text messages. All of the sudden a bear and cub walked by, crossing the trail right in front of me. They had no idea that I was there. When they finally looked over they both took off. The mother bear crossed the trail and disappeared into the woods. The cub clung to the bottom of a tree only 20 feet away from me. It wouldn’t go away. I didn’t know whether to take time to put on my socks and boots and gather my things before scrambling out of there or to just run up the trail barefooted with whatever I could manage to grasp. I just sat there for a while trying to make a decision. Finally, the cub began to make distress noises. This motivated me. Expecting the mother bear to return I jumped up to leave the area in bare feet. Just as I moved the cub finally jumped off the tree and took off into the woods. I gathered up my things and hiked onto camp at Snow Creek falls.
That night I sat out on watching the clouds and storms gather over Half Dome. The sky cleared some and the sunset played out on valley. I visited the campfire of other campers and tasted their Jim Bean and roasted marshmallows (with graham cracker and chocolate bar). They had hiked down from Tioga Road. The couple lived in Guam where the man was a pilot for a major airline.
I camped nearby under some tree cover. Storms and wind appeared to be on the way so I chose to avoid camping in this beautiful open area. That night I watched the sunset from this area on the south side of Snow Creek Falls.
So you think you can ski? Try skiing the Appalachian Trail in a couple feet of slush using skinny cross-country skis.
Strapping on the skis and climbing up the AT toward Kephart Mountain for a couple of tenths of a mile, I struggled to maintain balance. Before turning around my GPS told me that I was at 5900 feet. I had climbed here from the Kephart Prong Trailhead at an elevation a little below 3000 feet. I thought it wiser to backtrack down the same trail than to risk the unknown snow drifts and deadfall that might be present on a loop attempt via AT, Sluice Gap trail, and Grassy Branch trails.
The downhill skiing began. I improved. My trick was to look well ahead down the trail. I turned by lifting skis and the deep snow kept my speed very slow. Even so, I strained and was sore and exhausted. Finally, I leaned heavily on a ski pole and it folded in two. This was too hard. With the frequent breaks I needed, my average speed on ski’s wasn’t much faster than walking. I hiked most of the way down Sweet Heifer.
I skied part way down Sweet Heifer Creek Trail after climbing miles through snow 1 – 2 feet deep.
The Shelter –
The shelter welcomed with crackling fire in the fireplace and a collection of shelter companions. There was a couple that owned an organic farm near Mystic Connecticut. Fortunately, they hadn’t been harmed by Hurricane Sandy. Another married couple worked guiding rafting trips down the Pigeon River. Also present was Teebow, who built the fire and had gathered a large pile of dry firewood. There was a guy from Asheville waiting on 4 or 5 of his Asheville hiking buddies who had “night-hked” the climb up Mt. LeConte via Rainbow Falls. They had started at 9 PM Friday night and finished at 3 AM Saturday morning. They were “hardcore”, having night hiked this 6000 foot peak after a storm that dumped 3 feet of snow.
The Bear –
Among the late arrivals to the shelter was Thompson. He wore a long bushy black beard and a hiking kilt. One of his Asheville buddies jokingly told me that he hadn’t seen any bears, but that when his companions finally arrive sometime after nightfall, one of them could easily be mistaken for a bear. He had been talking about Thompson. The Asheville crew finally arrived with stories about how they had made a wrong turn and ended up hopelessly lost miles out of the way on the one way road around Cades Cove. You might wonder how they found their way along snow hidden trails to the top of Mt LeConte in the middle of the night.
I was tired and the first in a sleeping bag. I was sleeping on the lower level. At about 2 AM I heard a loud crash. I poked up my head and saw a large dark form on all four’s crawling around the floor of the shelter and swinging it’s front section as it apparently rummaged through some object that had created the loud crash. Seeing what I took to be a bear, I yelled, “GET BACK! GET BACK!”. The bear continued to swing its head around without moving away. “GET BACK”… I couldn’t locate my headlamp and couldn’t understand why others hadn’t wakened and turned on their headlamps. To get the shelter’s attention, I yelled “BEAR”. Finally a few lights came on and I saw Thompson on the floor of the shelter. He hadn’t said a word. He simply pulled himself up the ladder back to the top platform.
The next morning Thompson didn’t seem to remember anything. When reminded he said, “Oh yeah, I fell off the ladder right onto my back. Man my back hurts.”
The Hike –
Saturday – Two miles up Kephart Prong Trail then 3.7 miles up Sweet Heifer Creek Trail to AT. About 0.2 mi north on the AT, then return down Sweet Heifer Creek Trail to Kephart Shelter. Total 10 miles.
Sunday – 2.5 miles up Grassy Branch Trail to intersection with Sluice Gap Trail. Return to Kephart shelter. Two miles on Kephart Prong Trail back to car. Total 7 miles.
The Weather –
Hurricane Sandy had finished dumping 3 feet of snow on the higher elevations of the Smokies three days earlier. Only the previous day, Friday, a hiker stranded in 5 foot drifts on the AT between Pecks Corner and Tricorner Knob had to rescued by helicopter when rescuers gave up trying to reach him by foot on Thursday.
Climbing through 3.5 miles of snow covered 6 – 24 inches deep along Sweet Heifer Creek Trail with fully loaded backpack and skis strapped to pack. Here is a view of the unbroken trail midway up.
Meigs Creek to Meigs Mountain to Jakes Gap, to Miry Ridge Trail to Dripping Springs Campsite 26.
Spent the night at the Fontana Hilton once again. Arrived at midnight and found one other person sound asleep in the shelter. A couple of tents were pitched on some pads down the hill from the shelter.
Early morning westerly view from Foothills Parkway.
The next morning I drove the Dragon Tail and the Foothills Parkway to Townsend, ate blueberry pancakes and positioned my bicycle in the woods near Tremont. The Tremont road was closed due to a violent storm that swept away trees on July 5th. This storm had killed two people in the Smokies. A lady in the creek at Abrams Campground was hit by a tree and a guy riding a motorcycle was hit by a limb. Due to the road closure, I would have to walk an extra 3 miles along the road from Middle Prong trailhead to Tremont.
I parked my car at the Sinks to begin the hike. Meigs Creek trail had some difficult deadfall. I slipped down the side of steep slopes while working my way around fallen trees. It was good fortune that after about a dozen tough detours, the trail improved and I was to find very few trail obstacles for the remainder of the weekend.
Numbers of silent giants, hemlocks, stood stripped bare of needles along Meigs Creek. They seemed to be motionless even for a tree; greying tombstones. The trail passed between three that stood closely together like sentinels on barren desert. I am reminded of youth hikes over level paths carpeted with soft fragrant hemlock needles. I remember the feeling of deep shade and cool air rising from the stumbling brook. At the time, my only wish was for the path to gently continue, soft and cool, just a bit longer before turning up the rocky slopes of a sun heated mountain.
Once on the Meigs Mountain trail I began seeing other hikers. One group had seven 9th graders in the first year of a 4 year program with the Forest Service at Tremont. They were on the last day of a four day hike. On their first day, they navigated freshly downed trees along Goshen Prong trail. The trail was officially closed due to storm damage shortly after they struggled through.
Jakes Gap trail was a tough steady climb. Once on Dripping Spring Mountain, I walked up to the open area and rolled out my sleeping pad for a nap and long break. It was still early and I only had a mile to go. A rabbit hopped up behind me and was fearless enough to remaining while I relaxed.
Dripping Spring Mountain campsite is well off the trail. It is set in some healthy green hemlocks and patches of grass in open areas. A nice isolated and peaceful spot.
Sunday, July 15th, 2012
Miry Ridge Trail to Lynn Camp Prong Trail to Middle Fork Trail to Tremont Road to Tremont, bicycle from Tremont to Meigs Creek Trailhead.
Turk’s Cap Lily
I love the morning walk from campsite 26 to the Lynn Camp turnoff. This portion of the Miry Ridge trail is on high ridge and level. This is my favorite type of morning walk. I slept well last night, the temps dropped and a cool breeze blew. I had to zip up my 40 degree bag.
Turk’s Cap Lily.
Lynn Camp trail is an easily walked road bed. Not too steep and I was going downhill. I stopped at the falls turnoff on Middle Prong Trail. These falls have 3 drops into seductive pools. You have to climb down rocks and roots to reach each lower portion of the falls.
Three drops in the falls on Middle Prong Trail.
After 3 miles walking the road, I found my bike hidden in the woods. Yippee! (I hadn’t hidden it well and was hoping that it would be okay.) I dipped my shirt in the creek and put it on to cool off, but as soon as I had the wet shirt on it started raining and rained hard for much of the bike ride back to the Sinks.
