From Magazine Branch Campground and Boat Ramp on Calderwood Lake via one man Ocean Kayak (Yak Board) to campsite on Slickrock Creek, then hiking Slickrock Creek trail past Lower Falls and Wildcat Falls to Big Fat Gap and returned to campsite via Windy Gap, Nichols Cove, Yellowhammer, and Slickrock Creek trails.
Early morning view from Calderwood Lake down channel of Slickrock Creek.
Many others were sleeping in their cars, tents, and hammocks. They were up late so I didn’t get much sleep.
Launch point.
It was less than a mile downstream to the Slickrock Creek entrance.
While paddling to Slickrock creek hugging the far shore when I came upon a duck with about 8 – 10 ducklings. While watching the duck family skitter away across the calm water I suddenly heard a couple of loud snorts on the bank to my back. I looked over and imagined that I saw a bear in the shadows. I wondered momentarily whether a bear could swim out to my kayak and whether I could out paddle it. It turned out to be my imagination. The bear was an old stump and the snort turned out to be a river otter who would stick his head out from the rocks to warn me away with his otter barks.
That evening after completing the hike from base camp I took the kayak out to explore further downstream.
I am setting out in the direction shown here.
My campsite where Slickrock Creek spills into Lake Calderwood.
Upper portion of Windy Gap Trail is where the road to Big Fat Gap was closed years ago to make the trail. This was the easiest walking of the day. I had forgotten how tough wilderness hiking can be with very steep and slippery sections and unmaintained trails.My only views of the day were from Windy Gap Trail.
Over a single weekend I completed day hikes in 3 separate areas of the Smoky Mountains. This completed the last of the 900 miles of trails that I have hiked in the Smoky Mountains.
May 30, 2015 – Roundtop Trail – 7.5 miles
One end of Roundtop Trail is at the Wye (a fork on the Little River) where the river turns toward Townsend, TN to exit the Smokies. The other end is at Wears Gap. There is no trail sign or bridge on the trail-head at the Wye. With all of the recent rain, I was worried that I would have to swim across the Little River; however, for some strange reason the water was low.
On Round Trail above Little River Crossing. Covering a watershed from Mount Collins and Clingman’s Dome (source at 6600 ft elevation) to West Prong of the Little River sourced at a spot on opposite side of the ridge from Spencefield Shelter including Laurel Creek (White Oak Sinks), Meigs Creek, and Middle Prong, this is an immense drainage.
I parked at Wears Gap and rode my bicycle to Metcalf Bottoms, then along Little River Road to the Wye. Mountain Laurel was in full bloom all along the trail. Although the book states that this is a little hiked trail due to the river crossing, I saw 4 others while hiking this trail. Two ladies were members of the 900 mile club. One of them finished in 2 years. It was taking me 35 years to complete the 900 miles; however, I only made hiking all of the trails a goal about 7 or 8 years ago.
May 30, 2015 – The Balsams – Flattop Mountain Trail – 2.7 miles, Spruce Mountain Trail – 2.4 miles round-trip, Balsam Mountain Trail to Beech Gap Trail junction and return – 4.6 miles (Total – 9.7 miles)
After stopping at Subway for food in Townsend, I made the long drive along Little River Road, Hwy 441, and the Blue Ridge Parkway to Flat Mountain trail. Over the course of the weekend I had many sightings of wild turkey and a couple of sightings of Elk and deer. Most of the sightings were while driving from one hiking spot to another.
Female Elk grazing along road to Heintoga somewhere around Black Camp Gap
At Flattop I pulled over at the nearest trailhead and rode my bicycle uphill to the far end. Checking out Balsam Mountain Campground, one of the campers gave me incorrect directions to the other Flat Mountain trailhead. He was turned around and thought that the Blue Ridge Parkway was straight ahead. He tried to convince me that I needed to turn back. In fact, going straight ahead (the direction I was going) would have taken him to the long and tortuous one-way unpaved Balsam Mountain Gap Road and the other Flat Mountain trailhead.
On Saturday, beside waking up at 4:10 AM, driving to Townsend, hiking 17.2 miles at 4 different locations while driving through much of the Smokies, I rode my bicycle nearly 20 miles in order to hike back to my mini-van. Here is my bike at the Heintoga end of Flat Mountain Trail. I hiked back to my van from here.Nicest seats along any trail in the Smokies is on Flat Top Mountain trail near Heintoga Picnic Area.And here is the view from those benches on Flat Top Mountain trail.
Flat Mountain trail was a pleasant walk and very unique with a high elevation wet area with many intersecting creeks. Tall evergreens and grass covered understory with abundant trickling water gave the area a lush soft feel.
The drive down Balsam Mountain Gap Road to the next stop at Spruce Mountain Trail seemed like it would never end. I was surprised to see 2 cyclists on road bikes climbing up the rocky rutted road. Their tires were a little larger than narrow road bike tires. Perhaps they were 700 x 32 mm like those I have on my Novaro Randonnee touring cycle. Seeing this couple gave me the idea to try this climb on my Novaro Randonnee. Maybe I could climb to the top and camp at Balsam Mountain campground which in my opinion is the prettiest campground in the Smokies.
After driving miles, I almost gave up hope finding Spruce Mountain trail so I pulled over to examine the map on my Iphone. I quickly confirmed that I had not missed the trailhead. Putting my phone away, I started out again only to find the trailhead about 20 feet around the bend from where I had pulled over.
Campsite 42 at Spruce Mountain.
Campsite 42 is the only campsite in GSMNP that I have seen that did not have bear cables. At the end of Spruce Mountain trail, it is a difficult campsite to get to. Getting there means a long drive up the Blue Ridge Parkway and a longer drive still down unpaved Balsam Mountain Gap road. Finally after a 1 mile climb along a dead end trail you arrive at the campsite. This is a trail to nowhere although it actually leads to Polls Gap trail which is a former trail leading to Polls Gap. From Polls Gap you could access Cattaloochee Valley on Rough Fork trail. If you like privacy, campsite 42 is a good choice. I doubt you will have human companions.
Polls Gap Trail no longer exists. It leads from near Campsite 42 off end of Spruce Mountain Trail. Large trees are down across this end of trail.
May 31, 2015 – Lakeshore Trail to White Oak Branch Trail – 2.0 miles, White Oak Branch Trail – 1.8 miles, Forney Creek Trail to Lakeshore Trail – 1.5 miles, Lakeshore Trail to Tunnel trailhead – 2.9 miles (Total – 8.2 miles)
After a night sleeping in the min-van with the sunroof and windows open I was ready to tackle the last trail of the GSMNP that I had yet to hike. Today I would become a 900 miler. Only by oversight had I missed hiking the little White Oak Branch trail. I had passed it several times thinking that I had taken this “shortcut” trail to Forney Creek sometime in the past. While reviewing my blog and memories, I realized that I had never hiked it. Now I needed to go out of my way, hiking 2 miles in just to hike this 1.8 mile trail.
It was a beautiful morning with deer and turkey walking about. The Mountain Laurel on Lakeshore trail was in full bloom and seemed fuller and whiter than that on Roundtop Trail. Some of it was so clustered and full headed that it looked more like snowy balls of Crepe Myrtle.
I completed White Oak Branch and did a lonesome cheer and took selfies.
Here I am at the end of White Oak Branch trail celebrating having finished hiking all 900 miles of trails in the Great Smoky Mountain National Park.
Even though it was a Sunday morning and everywhere else in the Smokies seemed crowded, I did not see anyone else on this hike until a pair on horseback rode up just before I reached the Tunnel. One treat was spying a beautiful bluebird which gave away the location of one of his nesting friends.
Bird nesting in Mountain Laurel. Lakeshore Trail.
When I finished, about 5 horse trailers were parked or lined up to park. It looked like it would be a busy day on this trail after all.
My wife and daughter joined me for a weekend get-away in Bryson City. It was a chance for me to show them a little piece of what I had been hiking in the Smokies for the past several years.
We didn’t rough it, but the inexpensive Relax Inn ($55) in Bryson City even if not luxurious, was near Main Street and practical. Leaving Roswell early Saturday morning we drove past Bryson City and continued on to Clingman’s Dome Road for a nice walk (Forney Ridge Trail 3.4 miles roundtrip) down to Andrew’s Bald. We were back in Bryson City having lunch at Jimmy Mac’s around 2 PM.
Sandra and Rebecca relaxing on Andrew’s Bald
Sandra and I on Andrew’s Bald with Welch Ridge in background. The prominent high point on Welch Ridge is High Top with great views.
We checked into the Relax Inn and Sandra did some shopping on Everett Street, then we headed over to Deep Creek where the 3 of us hiked the Juny Whank Falls Loop. Sandra and Rebecca continued on the loop as I walked and ran the horse trail to Deep Creek trail where we rejoined. I then walked quickly back up Juny Whank Falls Loop from the other direction to pick up that missing segment. With the running, my thighs were in pain. Finally, I ran/walked the remainder of the horse trail all of the way back to the Nolan Divide trail while Sandra and Rebecca drove over to pick me up.
We went out for dinner at https://www.facebook.com/AnthonysItalianRestaurantNC where we sat outside with a full moon and listened to live music. Across the street was the Great Smoky Mountains Railroad. Next we walked over to the Nantahala Brewing Company where we listened to an all girl band, Dogwood Winter and I enjoyed a little Trail Magic (ale).
Poster at Nantahala Brewing Company explaining the Trail Magic I had.
Sunday morning we drove to the nearby “Road to Nowhere”. I had planned on amazing Sandra and Rebecca with a very dark and spooky tunnel, but it had been painted a light color, covering all but the most recent grafitti. The new paint lightened up the tunnel a great deal making it easy to see the ground as you walked to the other end. No longer scary.
We walked the Nolan Creek trail down to Fontana Lake and back up past the road before getting in our car and heading home.
AT to Boulevard trail 2.7 miles, Boulevard to Le Conte shelter 5.4 miles. (Total Mileage – 8.1 miles)
Newfound Gap shortly after reopening of Hwy 441.
There was some snow and ice the night before, but I had good timing in reaching the Smokies just minutes after the road opened. Once hiking, I soon wished that I had my Yak Tracks to help hiking across many treacherous ice patches. I picked my way along rocks and the edge of the trail wherever possible and used my poles to avoid slips. The many day trippers were usually ill prepared having no hiking poles or good footwear, but it was a beautiful day for people to pile out of the car and wander up the trail.
The absence of foot prints in the snow and ice made it clear that I was the first hiker on this trail for some time. I didn’t see others for rest of the day. The Boulevard Trail seemed to be mostly clear of ice until I began to ascend the final half mile at which point I moved out of the sun and onto a hard frozen ice covered trail. At that point it was a challenge to keep from sliding off the mountain. At one point, I covered a particularly tough stretch only to slip and glissade back down over hard conquered territory. I made it on the 2nd try. At times I wondered whether I might reach an unpassable spot and have to camp on the spot.
Untrodden Boulevard Trail, I was clearly the first person to hike this in quite a while. I was soon to find out why.
After careful and slow progress I reached the top only to slip and fall just short of the shelter. I fell hard on my back, but my backpack provided a great cushion and I hardly felt it.
Cables on this steep section of Boulevard. Maybe the only section in this area that wasn’t treacherous with snow and ice, probably melted off in this rocky open area.
I don’t know how cold it was that night, I guess around 15 degrees. After a visit to the cliffs and water run near the lodge, I ate and was in my bag early finding it the best way to stay warm.
Icicles on Boulevard Trail.I enjoy half my subway sandwich at this spot on Sweet Heifer Trail near intersection with AT.
At 10:30 pm I was surprised by 5 guys arriving from Miami. They had hiked the Rainbow Falls trail (without poles or yak tracks). They finished in the dark and started to camp in the lodge when the caretaker ran them out and directed them to the shelter. They were on the first day of a 7 day spring break hiking trip that looped to Hughes Ridge, Enloe Creek, Laurel Gap shelter, Old Settlers Trail, and Grapeyard Ridge trail back to start. I told them how tough the first piece of Boulevard would be in the morning. They had gotten a late start because 441 was closed and they chose to detour around. I asked what time and they told me 11 AM. I told them that it was open when I passed through the gate at 11:30 AM.
March 21, 2015
The hike plan:
Mt Le Conte on Boulevard trail to AT – 5.4 miles, Jump Off trail out and back (0.6 miles), AT to Dry Sluice Gap Trail – 1.7 miles, Dry Sluice Gap trail to Cabin Flats trail – 4.2 miles, Cabin Flats Trail to Cabin Flats campsite – 0.6 miles (Total mileage – 12.5 miles)
I took my time in order to start off about the same time as the Miami kids. I suspected they didn’t understand just how hard it would be to descend on The Boulevard. I visited Myrtle Point along the way and hung out until I heard their voices pass. Too bad they chose to bypass this nice spot! I soon came upon them clinging to branches, very slowly and carefully working themselves across ice. At times they were sitting down and attempting to slide without skidding off the trail and down the mountain. I was surprised to find that the trail was actually a little easier than the night before. The morning sun had been on this side for a few hours and made it possible to kick the tiniest of footholds in the ice with the side of my boot. With my hiking poles, this gave me enough traction to move surprisingly fast. The Miami kids on the other hand, had no poles. The tallest kid was being coaxed down by the others. I moved right past the group then slowed some to kick in steps way beyond what I needed hoping they would find them useful.
I met a guy named Ryan at the junction to the Jump Off trail. The Jump Off trail looked like a mini-glacier with ice pouring down the heavily rutted trail. Ryan and I set off toward Jump Off, gingerly hopping around the ice. Ryan pointed out that we had the exact same hiking poles. We had both ordered off Amazon. I enjoyed the remainder of my Subway sandwich while sitting on the overlook.
After returning the the main trail Ryan and I parted ways and I went on to Ice Water Springs shelter and Charlie’s Bunyon.
Here I am at Charlie’s Bunion for the 3rd time in my life.
After turning onto Dry Sluice Gap trail the snow on the trail gradually became more sparse as I descended. From Dry Sluice Gap I did not see others until I was already set up for camp at Log Cabin Flats. A man – daughter pair showed up and a while later another man – daughter pair. This campsite made a good overnight spot for an easy loop hikes from Smokemont. Log Cabin Flats covers a large flat area alongside a surprisingly large stream. There is plenty of room for an army of hikers to overnight here.
March 22, 2015
The hike plan:
Cabin Flats trail – 0.6 miles, Bradley Fork trail – 2.3 miles, Smokemont Loop trail – 3.9 miles, Newton Bald trail – 4.7 mi (Total Mileage 11.5 miles)
I was up early and gone before any others at the campsite were awake. On Smokemont trail I ran into the family of one of the father – daughter pairs that had camped at Log Cabin Flats. They were hiking toward Cabin Flats with plans to meet up. These were the last people I would see until I came off the trail the next day. The Smokemont trail rose to the top of a ridge and continued to rise. It doesn’t look like much of a trail on the map, but don’t be fooled. It is a demanding hike. Nice views of Newton Bald along this trail.
It was still early when I started the Newton Bald trail so I took my time with some long breaks including a nap and lunch on a large rock above a cool looking overhang. I later had nice winter views of Clingman’s Dome from Newton Bald. I used my binoculars to zero in on the Clingman tower as the sun descended. Later, I had a nice campfire. During the night it rained some, but I left my tarp completely open one one side and stayed dry.
My camp on top of Newton Bald. Seems like I am always camping at this site or passing through. This is my 3rd time camping on Newton Bald.Making dnner on Newton Bald.
March 23, 2015
The hike plan:
Sunkota Ridge trail to Thomas Divide trail – 0.2 miles, Thomas Divde Trail to Newfound Gap Road 4.6 miles (Total mileage – 4.8 miles) Bicycle on Newfound Gap Road from Thomas Divide trailhead to Newfound Gap.
Hiked Thomas Divide trail out to Highway 441. Hiked in occasional mixed snow and rain. The rain and snow started up again when I began bicycling in heavy fog up to my minivan at Newfound Gap. I was in black rain pants and red Northface jacket with hood. I know that the cars that passed thought I was crazy to be riding near the top of the Smokies in conditions like these. I expect that they thought I had ridden from the bottom.
Over a 9 day period in November 2014 I skipped my way around the Great Smoky Mountain National Park completing as many of the few remaining trails that I had not yet hiked in my goal for completing all 900 miles of trails in the park. Every hike or trail completed seemed to mark some milestone, such as another area of the park trails completed. Over 113.3 miles of trails (79.1 of which I had never hiked) I saw 2 historic school houses, a number of restored cabins and 3 waterfalls . I visited the towns of Maryville, Townsend, Gatlinburg, Standing Bear Farm hostel, West Asheville – Bon Paul & Sharky’s hostel, Cherokee, and Bryson City. I camped on the trail two nights and slept in the back of my van all other nights (even at the hostels). I camped in the van at the Old Settlers Trail trailhead in the Greenbrier area. I was always on the lookout for showers and discovered the Gatlinburg Community Center as the only option for a shower in Gatlinburg. I camped in the van at a rest stop on I-40, waking up to snow covering the van.
Morning snow at rest stop on I-40 where I spent the night in the van.
Throughout this trip I managed to organize my Sienna Minivan into a nicely outfitted camper. I discovered that the numerous cup holders, trays, pockets, and grocery back hooks served well for hanging backpacks and storing clothing, food, and supplies. The minivan became quite a comfortable home. I even used a piece of Tyvek as a doormat and a whisk broom as a vacuum cleaner.
Trail signs from all over.
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First 2 days of hiking – Cades Cove Area
Route on Day 1 and 2. Camped at Campsite 6. (18.4 miles)
Route traced in black. Late evening of November 7th included 2.2 mile hike from Cades Cove Loop Road to Campsite 6. Remainder of route traced in black was hiked on November 8th. Day 1, November 7, 2014 (Friday night) Crooked Arm Ridge Trail to CS 6 – 2.2 miles. Day 2, November 8 (Saturday) Indian Grave Gap Trail to Rich Mountain Tower Lookout (Cerulean Knob) and Return to CS 6 (3.0 miles), Scott Mountain Trail – 3.6 mi, Schoolhouse Gap Trail – 3.3 mi, West Prong Trail / Bote Mountain / Finley Cane Trail – 3.0 mi, Lead Cove Trail and return – 3.6 mi
On an evening hike ascending Crooked Arm Ridge trail I had my last glimpse of the grassy fields of Cades Cove during during my quest to hike the 900 miles of GSMNP trails. Throughout this trip I used my bicycle to join up trailheads with my minivan. I dropped my pack at Crooked Arm trail, drove and parked my minivan at Finley Cane trail, then rode my bike back to about 3 miles to Crooked Arm trail where I locked it to a tree and picked up my backpack. The next day, I stashed my backpack in the woods at the road where Bote Mountain trail starts. Later that day, I returned to my minivan and drove around to gather up the hidden bike and hidden backpack. I had also stowed away my backpack on the bear cables at campsite 6 while I hiked Indian Grave Gap Trail out and back. This was typical of my logistics for joining trailheads and limiting the need to carry a fully packed backpack.
In November there were still areas with beautiful fall color. Some of the best were along Little Greenbrier Trail, Crooked Arm trail, and the lower part of Sugarlands trail.
The morning of the 2nd day, I was concerned because I needed to hike Scott Mountain trail and it had been closed for the past 2 – 3 years due to storm damage. I gave it a try, knowing that I could turn around. I started my GPS tracker so I could backtrack if I were to become lost in the woods. This was never an issue because the trail was very clear. About a half mile in from Turkeypen Ridge Campsite 6, deadfall and a sloping trail slowed my progress. After another half mile or more of this the trail was much better. There were a few difficult, but manageable crossings of large trees. It is a mystery why the park service didn’t send a team in to clear the way. The easy stuff could have been cleared by a few people in a single day. This trail provides the most direct way for hikers to walk from Townsend to Cades Cove. It also borders Whiteoak Sink which has bat caves. The bats are dying off from white nose disease. This disease wakes up the bats during winter hibernation when without food they can’t afford to expend energy. Maybe the park service wants this trail closed permanently. Could it be to keep hikers away from bat caves? Or could it be to keep hikers from vacation cabins that border the park right at the trail? Anyway, I have hiked trails in much worse condition in wilderness areas and even in the GSMNP. I hiked the open Meigs Creek trail right after a tornado and had more deadfall to deal with.
Campfire at campsite 6 on the closed Scott Mountain trail.
Turkey Pen Ridge Campsite 6 at sunrise. I really liked this campsite because it sat at a high spot on top of a rise above the trail.
I must be starting to lose my human smell because it seems like wild animals always walk up to me with no clue that I am there. I always thought animals could smell so well and were very aware of the nearby presence of humans. That isn’t the case with me. While sitting on the trail eating my PBJ’s at the base of Bote Mountain Trail a deer noisily descended to a creek and back up the other side to where I sat. I watched this dear the entire time and couldn’t believe that he was coming up the embankment exactly where I sat. The deer was right on me, just a few feet away when it caught sight of me. With all of the space in the woods, how probable is it that the deer would choose a path right where I sat. At first I thought the deer must be habituated to humans and was coming for the PBJ. That wasn’t the case.
About an hour later as I walked up Bote Mountain trail nearly to Finley Cove Trail, I heard running around the bend behind me. I turned around just in time to see about 4 or 5 deer running up the trail toward me. Although I stood there in plain site, it took some time before the deer realized I was there and react by diving off the trail.
Next 2 days of hiking – Gatlinburg and Metcalf Bottoms
Route of day 3 traced in red, route of day 4 traced in green. Day 3, November 9 (Sunday). Bicycle from Huskey Gap Trail to Sugarlands Visitor Center. Cove Mountain Trail – 8.4 mi, Laurel Falls Trail – 4.0 mi, Sugarlands Trail – 3.1 mi, Husky Gap Trail – 2.0 mi, Total – 17.5 miles Day 4, November 10 (Monday). Bicycle from Cherokee Orchards (Old Sugarland Trail) along on Motor Road and Gatlinburg Trail to Old Sugarland trailhead on Hwy 441. Bicycle from Wear Gap to Metcalf Bottoms. Metcalf Bottoms Trail, Little Brier Gap Trail, Little Greenbrier Trail to Laurel Falls Trail and return to Wear road. Total – 12.0 miles
I moved on the the Gatlinburg area where I walked on the Gatlinburg Trail then sat in traffic on Little River Road at the Sugarlands Visitor Center and on the main strip through Gatlinburg.
The next morning I had a long day hike including Cove Mountain Trail. Although long, it turned out to be easy. Cove Mountain trail was an old road bed and never steep. Laurel Falls trail was downhill. I didn’t see people until I was a mile or so from Laurel Falls. Laurel Falls was one continuous stream of people coming up the asphalt paved path.
There was a lady walking around the edge of the falls with her kid and husband. It wasn’t that she was near the edge. Others moved around this area. The part that bothered me was that she seemed very oblivious, taking steps backwards with her back to the drop off and not seeming to be aware of her locale. With the drop offs on the falls and even on the asphalt path leading to the falls and the large numbers of people, I can easily believe the sign at the trailhead that informs visitors that deaths have occurred from falls.
Upper part of Laurel Creek Falls.
That night I was finally beginning to learn my way around Gatlinburg. I ate Chinese food in town. I learned to park on river street to avoid parking fees. It helped that the weekend rush was over. I drove up Roaring Fork Motor Trail to Cherokee Orchard to check out the road for riding my bicycle the next day in order to hike back up the Old Sugarlands trail. Barely out of the hotel district I saw cars pulled over on the other side of the road. There was a bear ambling his way to town. He had well under a half mile to reach the middle of the hotel district and even main street.
After sleeping in the van for the 2nd consecutive night parked hidden well back on Greenbrier Road just across 3 bridges over the Little Pigeon and Middle Prong of Little Pigeon rivers I had coffee and breakfast at the McDonalds off Hwy 321 and drove to Cherokee Orchards. Having taken a shower at the spacious new Gatlinburg Community Center the night before, I felt almost civilized. It was early morning and cold, but I wore my rain/wind jacket and pants and gloves on the bicycle ride down Roaring Fork Motor Trail and through Gatlinburg. I made a stop at a Subway to pick up lunch for later, then continued on my bicycle down the Gatlinburg trail to the start of the hike on the Old Sugarlands trail.
At Cherokee Orchard (upper trailhead of Old Sugarlands Trail) about to ride down to Gatlinburg and the lower trailhead.
After completing the hike and picking up my bicycle I drove to Metcalf bottoms where I repeated the bicycle / van routine between Metcalf bottoms and Wear Gap.
Here I am playing teacher at Little Greenbrier School.
A Zero day in Asheville, then 5 hiking days.
Late evening day 5 (November 15th) hikes traced in green. Road access on Mt. Sterling Trail (0.5 mi and return) and road access (1.0 mi & return) on Little Cataloochee Trail. Day 6 (November 16th) route traced in red. Day 6, November 13, (Thursday) Little Cataloochee Trail, Long Bunk Trail, Mt Sterling Trail, Mt Sterling Ridge Trail, Pretty Hollow Gap Trail, Total – 18.3 miles
After camping in the van at Standing Bear Hostel where the AT leaves the Smokies, I spent Tuesday and Wednesday in Asheville. Tuesday night was spent camping in the van at Bon Paul & Sharky’s hostel in West Asheville. I took in the West Asheville nightlife with a dinner at a local bar and some time at the ISIS theater for some bluegrass music. Mostly I enjoyed walking around the area and visiting with the young people at the hostel. Having stayed at 2 hostels meant hot showers for another 2 nights.
Bon Paul & Sharky’s Hostel in West Asheville.
Odds End Coffee House next door to Bon Pauls. This is where I spent some time the next day. Notice the garage door type window. Many places on Hayes St in W. Asheville have these. When it is warm they open these to let in the fresh air. It feels like you are outside!
Wednesday evening after a day in Asheville, I drove to Cataloochee and did some hiking into the dark to complete an out and back of the “spurs” of Mt. Sterling Trail and Little Cattaloochee Trail. I parked somewhere in Cataloochee valley (on creek up the road from the Palmer House) where I camped in the van once again.
Little Catalooche Valley once looked much different with farms, livestock, and apple trees.
Dan Cook cabin. People didn’t permanently move into the Little Cataloochee Valley until 1854. Cataloochee Valley and other areas had already been settled for a long time. Cades Cove first settlers arrived before 1820. I think it was the Olivers that first settled in Cades Cover.
Lonely Little Cataloochee Baptist Church is a 3 mile hike from the nearest open road which itself is a long drive on a winding dirt mountain road from Cove Creek Gap or Waterville Road. After hiking over 18 miles, I didn’t see anyone else until I was a mile from finishing. It was fun ringing the church bell. Church goers wanting to drive would have to be allowed by Park Service through the trail gate a few miles away. They often do that for families that lived in the Smokies at one time.
Taking it easy (actually posing for selfie on a timer) on porch of Hannah’s cabin in Little Cataloochee.
View from fire tower on Mt. Sterling.
Elk in Catalooche Valley. The night before while driving around looking for a inconspicuous place to park and sleep for the night, I came across all of the Elk asleep in a fenced in area next to the Ranger Station.
The following morning I slept in the van at a rest stop on I-40, then drove to Big Creek where I hiked in the snow along Chestnut Branch trail. This was an out and back up to the AT.
Chestnut Branch Trail is a way to get from Big Creek to the AT. The book says that 9 families lived along this creek.
The Final 3 Days – Near Cherokee and Bryson City
Day 7, November 14, Friday Little Cataloochee Rd access and return (2.0 miles), Mt Sterling Trail road access & return (1.0 mile), Newton Bald Loop traced in blue (10.4 miles) Mingus Creek Trail – 5.7 miles, Newton Bald Trail – 4.7 miles, Total – 13.4 miles Day 8, November 15, Saturday Stone Pile Gap to Newton Bald (Route traced in Red) – Total Distance is 15.7 miles Thomas Divide Trail to Stone Pile Gap Trail – 1.1 miles, Stone Pile Gap Trail to Indian Creek Trail – 0.9 miles, Loop Trail from Indian Creek Trail to Sunkota Ridge Trail and return – 1.0 miles, Indian Creek Trail to Deep Plow Gap Trail – 2.2 miles, Martins Gap Trail to Deep Creek Trail and return to Sunkota Ridge Trail – 5.2 miles, Sunkota Ridge Trail to Thomas Divide Trail – 4.9 miles, Thomas Divide Trail to Campsite 52 – 0.4 miles, Day 9, November 16, Sunday, From Newton Bald Campsite 52 to Thomas Divide Trail lower trailhead (Route traced in Green), Total Distance is 14.7 miles, Along Newton Bald Trail from Campsite 52 to Mingus Creek Trail – 0.5 miles, Mingus Creek Trail to Deep Plow Gap Trail – 2.8 miles, Deep Plow Gap Trail to Indian Creek Motor Trail – 5.4 miles, Side trip on Cooper Creek trail and return – 1.0 miles, Indian Creek Motor Trail – 1.8 miles, Thomas Divide Trail to lower trailhead – 3.2 miles, Started hike at 7:15 AM and finished at 1:20 PM – 6 hour, 5 minute hike.
My campsite at Newton Bald as the sun sets. For the past 2 days, I had only seen 1 group of hikers. The same group of 4 guys from Loganville. They had spent the night here on Newton Bald. I was able to start a campfire using only buried embers from their campfire of the night before.Here I am at Little Creek Falls. I also hiked to Crooked Arm Falls, Gatlinburg Falls, and Laurel Creek Falls and on this trip.
My 3rd waterfall, Little Creek Falls. Little Creek Falls on Deeplow Gap Trail is much higher than appears here. It cascades from well up the mountain. There are some nice winter wooded views of most of the cascade as Deeplow trail ascends to the top of the falls. Overall, there is a pretty tough ascent from Cooper Creek to these falls and on to the top of the falls. Seems like I topped out on Deeplow at 3600 feet elevation.Broken handrail on split log bridge on Deeplow Trail near Indian Creek. Also, the edges of the long on the near side are rotted off leaving a rounded surface to balance on as I started the crossing. Good thing I practice balancing on my son’s slack line. 🙂
After a 9 day trip, I postponed breakfast to make an early daylight start (7:15 AM) from my campsite at Newton Bald. After reaching the junction of Mingus Creek trail and Deeplow Gap trail, I took a break to cook oatmeal and coffee. I finished up the coffee in my “to go” cup as I continued on Deeplow Gap trail. A light cold rain started shortly before I reached my van having completed the 14.7 miles at 1:20 PM, a 6 hour 5 minute day on the trail.
On the way up Indian Creek Motor trail, I saw my only people of the day, a couple on horseback. Indian Creek Motor trail, Thomas Divide, and Indian Creek trails in this area are roads making easy passage for horses and even bicycles.
At the junction of Indian Creek trail and Deeplow Gap Trail was a “No Bicycles Beyond this Point” sign. This made me wonder whether bicycles were allowed in much of this area. This got me thinking about a new adventure. Bicycling the road loop made by Thomas Divide, Indian Creek Motor, Deeplow Gap, and Indian Creek trails.
Thomas Divide Trail nearly back to my van and the end of the trip.
Shuttled from Tunnel Road to Nowhere to Fontana Marina by one time resident of Hazel Creek. – Marina Ferry to Hazel Creek. – Backpacking with swim breaks. – Chambers Creek. – From lake elevation to over 5000 feet on Bear Creek trail to High Rocks. – Tunnel Bypass Trail – Goldmine Loop Trail – Lower 1 mile of Nolan Creek trail.
Day 1, September 26, 2014 – “Meeting original resident of Hazel Creek for 17 years”
Hazel Creek to Chambers Creek (Campsite 98) – 14.6 miles
Getting there:
Thursday night I arrived at the tunnel outside Bryson City and slept in the back of my van. No moon and clear skies made the Milky Way and stars spectacular. I had arranged a pick up at 6:30 AM Friday morning by Gene Lamey. Gene pulled up about 5:45 AM. I explained that I had arrived late the night before. It took me only a few minutes to put on my hiking boots and grab my pack. Gene is 86 years old. He lived 3 or 4 miles up Hazel Creek until he was 17 years old. In 1944, after Fontana Dam was built the government moved all of the people out and promised to build a new road on the north shore of the new lake. The old road to Bryson City was submerged in most places.
School that Gene Lamey attended near Hazel Creek.
As Gene drove, I asked a few questions with the hope that he would share stories of the time he lived in the Smokies. Gene talked about coon hunting up Cold Spring Gap toward High Rocks and he mentioned that there were a lot of bears this year with all of the acorns. “There were a lot of grapes, but Bears won’t eat grapes.” He told of how you could pay the mailman 50 cents to give you a ride from Hazel Creek back to Bryson City (about 30 miles). The mailman made his run twice a week.
I told Gene about my hike on Hazel Creek trail where I saw large buildings in the woods. He explained that these were the drying kilns for the lumber mill. They weren’t torn down because they weren’t made of wood. He said that during WWII with men sent to war, the boys cleaned off the mud and rocks picked up in the bark of the logs. The older men rolled the logs off the train.
I paid $25 for the one way ferry from the Fontana Marina to Hazel Creek. The one-way charge to Forney Creek is $110. I had expected the ride to Hazel Creek to be a short hop directly across the lake, but it was actually much farther. Luckily, I had not decided to plan a trip where I kayaked across.
I rode the pontoon ferry boat “Miss Hazel” from the marina to Hazel Creek.
Some Geography:
A better name for this post might have been “Hiking the Welch Ridge” area. Within an hour of hiking I had climbed from Hazel Creek to a high point (2300 ft) on the lower end of Welch Ridge. I could have taken the direct route, bushwhacking straight up the ridge and through a few intervening gaps to High Rocks. Instead, I continued on Lakeshore trail over the next 2 days before reaching High Rocks. My first night’s campsite, nearly 15 miles down Lakeshore trail, Chamber’s Creek, flowed from Welch Ridge. For three days I was hiking along and around Welch Ridge. Finally, on the 3rd day, I crossed the lower part of Forney Ridge and went beyond the Tunnel to hike the lower part of Nolan Creek (Nolan Ridge). From Hazel Creek, the main ridges in order running toward the AT are Welch Ridge (to Silars Bald), Forney Ridge (to Clingman’s Dome), and Nolan Divide (to Clingman’s Dome).
The hike:
Lakeshore trail is long and at least for me mentally, seemed very long. Hitchhikers covered my socks and shorts and even my shirt. I eventually began listening to some Bob Dylan and Grateful Dead. It wasn’t until I took a couple of breaks to swim in the lake and eat lunch that I could shake the boredom. I noticed persimmons growing in the shallow lake bed. I tried some of the ripest looking persimmons were spread beneath these trees. They were still bitter. I began noticing bear scat full of persimmon seeds.
After the 2nd swim break, the trail leveled on a road covered with wildflowers. A male goldfinch skittered along ahead of me for a while moving from perch to perch. My mood shifted to the glorious.
One of several breaks from hiking to take a dip in the lake and to soak up the sun.
At Chambers Creek I set up my campsite and went back to the lake for a swim. In the clear water I could spot small trout. Eventually, I spied 2 large trout about 18 inches long. I laid on the beach in the sun and later brought out my supper to enjoy the last views of the sun. The channel opened up with a nice view of a mountain that I guessed was Cheoah Bald. This reminded me of the rainy and foggy day hiking the AT when I crossed Cheoah Bald.
Campsite at Chambers Creek.
A large group of mostly young canoeists had paddled in from 4 miles up the lake. They camped at the next tent site further up the creek. Other than these camper-canoeists, a couple of fishermen on the lake, and a pair a couple miles from Hazel Creek (probably locals paying respects at one of the many cemeteries), I saw no others. I was the only one out for an overnight hike of this trail.
Campsite at Chambers Creek at night.
Day 2, September 27, 2014 – “A last swim in the lake and climb to High Rocks”
Chambers Creek to Forney Creek on Lakeshore Trail – 6.6 mi, Forney Creek to High Rocks via Bear Creek Trail and Welch Ridge Trail – 6.3 mi, Return to Poplar Flats Campsite 75 on Bear Creek – 3.3 mi, Total distance – 16.0 miles
This Lakeshore Trail seems like it never ends. After the usual morning glow of hiking I began wondering how much further and began tracking progress on my Iphone GPS App. This app nearly got me into trouble the night before when I very nearly walked past Chambers Creek. The map and the trails didn’t overlay correctly at times making it appear that the campsite was on further at the top of the next ridge. This morning the app made me thing that I had an inlet to walk around before reaching an final inlet that was Forney Creek. I soon found out that the inlet I was already following was Forney Creek.
I stopped and made my way around to the right side bank to avoid bothering a couple of men fishing the creek from a boat. Working across the steep lake bank, the sandy bottom gave way and I caught myself with my hiking pole. The pole bent double and broke in half when I tried bending it back.
The last swim was nice. I used a boulder to deposit my things and floated around in the lake. I liked dropping down to just where my eyes were lake level where I would look across the still water to the mountains beyond. It was a peaceful perspective.
At the campsite near Forney Creek I met and spoke to a couple from Knoxville, TN. They had been thinking about hiking to High Rocks and back to Forney Creek, but were thinking better of leaving that late on a 13.5 mile hike. Later after I had set up my camp at Poplar Flats they came hiking up Bear Creek trail. They had changed their minds and had decided to hike to High Rocks even if it might mean some hiking in the dark.
My tarp at Poplar Flats. Campsite 75 on the Bear Creek trail. Not too noticeable, the site is oriented the wrong way on the slope.
I completed Bear Creek trail and visited High Rocks for the 2nd time. The first was when I hiked Hazel Creek, Welch Ridge, Cold Springs Gap and much more. I noticed as I moved away from the lake that the bear scat no longer contained persimmon seeds. Up on Welch Ridge again, I thought a lot about how it would feel to continue up the ridge to Silar’s Bald shelter. When hiking I used to talk to myself and think about all sorts of things and ideas. Now, I hike quietly and if I think of anything it is about other hikes. I see rocks, ridges, trees, trail beds, etc. that trigger memories of other trails and other hikes. I suppose I have this large store of memories of hikes that I did not have years ago when all I could do while hiking was talking to myself, memorizing poems, or dreaming up wacky ideas while I hiked. Other hiking thoughts are often devoted to the latest pain or soreness. When I was younger I thought about the piece of my body that currently hurt the worst. I wanted to stop and rest. Now, I think about the pain that could be a sign of getting old. Now, the worry is worse than the pain. Will that slight soreness in my right knee get worse and leave me unable to walk? Will that pain in my back radiate to my hip causing me to be unable to go on?
View from High Rocks
Supper was the 2nd night of Tofurky spicy sausages (meatless). This time in red beans and rice with a little Stovetop Stuffing mixed in. I drank a cup of coffee before bed. Between the coffee and the sloped ground under my tarp, it was hard to sleep. I turned around to put my head uphill, but that left my feet sticking out from under the side of the tarp. No worries about rain, but unable to sleep, my mind naturally wandered toward bears making sleep even more impossible. I occasionally got up to throw the remaining wood on the fire.
Day 3, September 28, 2014 – “Finishing all of Lakeview Trail and all trails southwest of Bryson City”
Bear Creek trail below Poplar Flats campsite is downhill and gentle and becomes easier as it becomes an old road. Once back on Lakeshore Trail the ups and downs start again. I don’t recall exactly, but at one point I believe that I climbed up to 2800 feet. The temptation was to walk back to my car and complete the trip, but I had to detour and recross my path some in order to pick up the Tunnel Bypass Trail and the Goldmine Loop trail. I hiked these unremarkable trails that were more like a replay of Lakeshore trail. I actually hiked Goldmine Loop without a pack since I first returned to my van via Tunnel Bypass trail.
After returning to my car the 2nd time, I drove to Nolan Creek and hiked 1 mile out and back on the Nolan Creek Trail between the road and Fontana Lake. Nolan Creek trail was an easily walked road along a beautiful creek. It would be a nice place to revisit for an easy walk some day. Maybe with Sandra. Gene Lamey told me that the government occasionally opens the gate to Nolan Creek trail drives earlier inhabitants and their descendents up Nolan Creek for a visit to their origins. They do something similar on Hazel Creek.
