Author: mmbowden60

At mile 1270.3. Hiked 20.5 PCT miles today. Hiked alternate route adding another mile or two.

My campsite with human company, again. Good! Usually my only camping companions are bear and deer. 

Today I hiked the Bucks Lake  alternate route so I could visit Haskins store. But first, I need to tell you about what I figured out.

I’ve been meeting thru-hikers of the “intense” variety who are doing 30 plus mile days and who entered the Sierras in May (early) only to be caught in a blizzard and have to backtrack. I’ve also been pushing myself with the struggle through the snow and more recently a 25 mile day. It occurred to me that this can’t continue. I won’t enjoy the hike and physical exhaustion will turn into mental exhaustion. I’ll waver mentally and emotionally and not follow through with this hike. I asked myself just how much I really needed to hike each day. Funny that I had never done that calculation. While hiking I checked my location using Guthook and saw that I was at mile 1256. I know that the trail is 2650 miles long. Rounding 1256 to 1250, I figured that I have 1400 miles to reach Canada. That is an interesting number and a little serendipitous to have come up with the very first time I tried this exercise. Divide it by 20 miles per day and you get 70 days. That puts me getting to Canada around August 17th. Then why am I killing myself with 25 mile days? What is interesting is that with these numbers, every reduction of daily mileage by 2 miles means an additional week of hiking to arrive in Canada. At 18 miles per day I arrive on August 24th. At 16, I arrive on August 31. I had already figured that I could start the Sierras as late as mid September to cover the first 350 mile portion that is at high weather risk. The last 90 miles are lower elevation and drier. Having done the numbers, I have figured out that I should avoid 25 mike days. My days should be around 20 miles and could be 18 or even 16 miles with no risk to finishing. Limiting mileage would be easier on me physically, but more importantly, it will keep me in the right frame of mind. I know I can do this physically, i need to ensure I can do it mentally. The surest way for me to complete the hike is to ease up on the mileage so that the experience is a joy, not a grind.

Other news:

Saw a bobcat really close today. I was peeing in the woods and it came toward me through a clear area and down the hill. It didn’t run and it was quite close. Once it noticed me it stopped. Only after I pulled my IPhone from my pocket did it begin to move away. It moved away deliberately, not in a rush like the bear I saw last night.

There is a deer in our campsite again tonight. Yes, I said “our”. Big Foot and Peter Pan from Alaska.are renting here. I met them a couple days south of Walker Pass. I also have Hollywood tenting here. Hollywood was caught in the Sierra blizzard. His friends separated in the blizzard and they had a frantic time calling out to one another. Hollywood said he had frozen feet and that he regretted going into the Sierras when he did.

This morning I ran into Michael and the Professor and Mario. They were the first people I knew that I have run into since returned. Talking to them and catching up lifted my spirits. 

It’s going to be a colder night. Hands are already cold from typing this.

Now back to Bucks Lake Alternate. I bought instant coffee and other items at Haskins. Yay!! I’ve been missing coffee since a meth head / heroin / fetanyl addict stole it in Sierra City. I ate well today. Two meals at Bucks Lake plus a lot of snacks while hiking. I also had Gatorade and ice cream. 

I took a swim in Bucks Lake at the Lakeshore Resort. Afterwards, I had fish and chips at their Restaurant. Here is where I swam.

Here are the first good views climbing out of Middle Fork Feather river gorge.

Here is the bobcat I saw.

Here are views from Lookout Rock

Here is a nice creek.

Here is the view from the deck of Lakeshore Resort where I dined ion fish and chips. 

At mile 1249.8. Hiked 25.3 miles today.

I am finally seeing other people. Yesterday I saw Golden who moved on ahead of me. Today I saw a number of thru-hikers who flipped the Sierras. I’ve also been seeing a few section hikers. Nearly all have been SOBO. 

There were 2 types of hikers I have been seeing today. There are the smart hikers who avoided an early hike through the Sierras and there are the intense hikers that plunged into the Sierras, early  but left the Sierras early for one reason or another. Some got fed up with walking through snow. Others got caught in a snowstorm and had to hunker down causing them to be short of food. The intense hikers are also the kind of hikers that will do 30 mile days.

Tonight I am sharing a campsite on the Middle Fork Feather river with 2 of the ‘intense’ hikers named Sherlock and Watson. They were in camp before me despite having hiked 31 miles. Sherlock and Watson were among the 20 or so that got caught in a snowstorm while attempting to cross Forester Pass (elevation 13,000 ft plus). They ended up turning around and backtracking 30 miles due to lack of food. The storm dumped 12 inches delaying their progress.

Watson told me that hikers in the Sierras are now postholing through slush. He said that after the storm some hikers that made it through Forester Pass were sinking waist deep in snow.

Here is the bridge over Middle Fork Feather river. I camped next  to the river where mosquitoes were abundant, but’s my 34% Deet kept them away from me while Sherlock and Watson cowered in tents beneath mosquitoes netting. Ha ha.

Here is the Middle Fork of the Feather River. It was a long descent to the river.

Here are some photos of the scenery along the hike.

Here is one of many flowering dogwood trees I saw while descending in the MF Feather River gorge. Everything began to look more like Georgia in this area.

At mile 1224.5. Hiked 20.8 miles today.

When I stuck my head out of the tent, I was surprised to see a spectacular sunrise.

The hiking was hard most of the day. There was a lot of climbing and the trail was rocky. My legs were sore most of the morning. The good part was great views of the Sierra Butte and many lakes.

Here is Sierra Butte.

Here is Sierra Buttes after hiking away from it all morning.

After lunch the trail got easier and smoother. I was still sore and tired though. After taking a nap at A Tree Spring, I felt rejuvenated. Met and older guy thru hiker at the spring. His name is Golden.

After a long climb I found that I had cell service so I checked in with the family. Shortly after that I had a great long distance view of Mt Shasta. Easy to identify because it is white. I had actually seen it two days ago before reaching Sierra City. It was a white smudge in the horizon at that distance.

There were still a few places with snow in the trail.

 

Here are a few lake views.

I’m camped along the West Branch of Nelson Creek. A little while ago I noticed a bear on the other side of the creek grazing his way toward me I yelled in order to run him off, but after that I felt the need to hang my food. 

Blurry zoomed in photo of bear. The bear didn’t notice me saw I could have walked closer or just continue to let the bear approach and I could have taken a better photo. I decided against it.

As I was writing this I heard a loud noise outside my tent. Thinking the bear may have returned, I got up to investigate. It was a deer.

At mile 1203.7. Hiked 8.3 miles today.

Late last night after I had turned in, the Sheriff dropped a homeless drug addict off at the PCT camping area at the church. I never got out of my tent, but I heard some of the conversation between her and Evan and Peer Pressure. She was asking for things and otherwise rambling. I overheard her tell the others that she stole things. I won’t go into it, but today she was still around and my things started disappearing. The missing food I didn’t mind too much since it was left over and some food I took from the hiker box. Only later did I realize that my coffee was gone and now I’m on the trail for 5 days without coffee. It’s tough being a coffee addict. My entire personal hygiene kit went missing. I spent a great deal of time completely and methodically emptying my pack, pulling out my tent, etc from stuff sacks, going through gear in search of my kit. I ended up going to the store to purchase toothbrush, toothpaste, etc. Some items like chapstick I already had backup stored elsewhere. 

At the coffee shop I heard more about the aggressive bear. The patron started listing off places the bear had broken into that included residences (in broad daylight), businesses, and even the Red Moose Cafe. She explained that there were actually 3 bears and Evan had encountered the nicer one, the one that would leave when you turned headlamps into it.

After coffee at the coffee shop ( no WiFi, but they use the guy’s WiFi across the street) and breakfast at Harrington Restaurant, I headed to the Post Office that opened at 10 AM. There, I picked up my new tent and my resupply box. Later, I took my old tent and Microspikes to the PO to mail back home. 

I was finally ready to leave town.i had bought new sunglasses at the store and bought a Gatorade for the road. I nice resident gave me I ride up to the trail almost before I could start hitchhiking.

By the way, the church or the park? has pubic restrooms that include showers. I soon found out that they were cold showers. I guess that helps keep the hikers from hanging out in town too long. 

It is a beautiful little town and I’d like to return as a tourist, but it doesn’t have much and what it does have keeps short hours. 

The hike was mostly a climb up Sierra Buttes. Much of the trail was rubble and hard to walk on. Along the way I ate lunch from my resupply and nuts from the hiker box. It was hot and after lunch I started to feel slightly ill. I stopped early, just a little before 5 PM so I could take time setting up and getting familiar with my new tent. I also had a mew stove from the hiker box, actually Peer Pressure’s old stove. Thanks PP, 

I set up everything and had dinner in my pot ready to cook. A couple came by with 2 dogs and the dogs ran up to my tent. I was worrying  about my brand new expensive tent when I realized that one of the dogs was eating my supper. He only got a lick or two, but I called out to the owners that the dog got my food. The couple walked on like nothing happened and were disappearing down the mountain. I got mad and left my tent and yelled so they could hear. “Your dog got my food!” They walked on with no response. I yelled more. “I can’t believe that you won’t even give me an apology! I don’t know what your problem is!!” They walked on as if nothing happened and I want there. 

I ate the dog licked dinner anyway. I think it actually improved the taste, but don’t tell the inconsiderate dog owners that.

What a day!

Here is my lunch spot. 

View a few steps from my lunch spot.

Here are photos of Sierra Buttes

Here is the view from my tent site and photos of the first pitching of my new tent. 

One last note. Other PCT hikers began arriving in town just as I was about to leave. Maybe I’ll have some hiking company. Only thing, they were all rail thin and had come through the Sierras so they may hike a little intense for my taste and ability.

Day 43 – From snow to heat

At mile 1195.4. Hiked 23.1 PCT miles today plus walking to and around town.

I didn’t see anyone today until I was a few miles from Sierra  City. There was some snow to navigate through, but I quickly moved out of snow and into heat. I’ve also had my first mosquitoes and mosquito bites and used mosquito repellent for the first time, but still the mosquitoes haven’t gotten bad, yet. I’m prepared with tent replacing tarp and head net. 

I hitched most of the way into town As I was getting out of the car, I felt for my sunglasses. They had fallen off, but when I turned to check, the car was already zooming off. Next time I am going to take my time getting out of the car so that I know I have everything. This is a pretty big problem since this small town has no place to buy sunglasses.

Tonight I am camping at the Methodist Church in Sierra City. They have cold showers In the morning I pick up my resupply box and new tent at the post office. Two other hikers are camping here. One, named Peer Pressure is hiking with Wounded Warriors and came straight through the Sierras. Pretty amazing to have a hiker this far along in June 3rd. Peer Pressure and I are the same age. He started his hike on March 1st. 

A man came by and warned us of a large agressive bear that has been coming down the street. The other hiker, Evan, who has been staying here about 5 days said that a  bear came into the church camping area, but the hikers drive it away with their headlamps. I put my little remaining food into the bathroom. As I was writing this, the Sheriff dropped a homeless lady off at the PCT hiking area. She was trying to borrow a blanket from the hikers. I was already in my tent and didn’t fully know what was going on. It isn’t good that the Sheriff drops off homeless people with with absolutely nothing. 

Here is. a view of Sierra Buttes which I will begin climbing tomorrow. 

Here is the trail 

Here is the trail 

Here is the river and foot bridge

At mile 1172.3. Hiked 14.7 miles today.

First let me revisit that avalanche chute at Sugar Bowl Ski Area. 

Wait, as I’m writing this, I heard a sound outside my tent. It is a deer. It is about 30 feet away in the middle of the campsite and won’t go away. It is trying to eat something next to a log. Not grazing around, but working the same spot in the dirt. It has been 5 minutes and the deer is still at it. It’s a doe for you deer hunters. My theory is that someone peed on that log and the deer is trying to get the salt. I’ll leave the deer alone because don’t they keep bears away?

Back to the avalanche chute. As you recall, the trail traverses it, but I accidentally bypassed it by climbing steeply to the peak of Disney mountain. Today, I  visited Peter Grub Ski Hut that is on the PCT. Extremely cool and remote place. A guy from the Netherlands named Weetz had stayed there the previous night. He told me that he had injured his arm in a fall yesterday and wondered whether he had to worry about infection. His forearm was wrapped from elbow to hand in gauze. I offered my Triple Antibiotic Ointment. That is when he explained that he fell trying to cross the Sugar Bowl Avalanche chute. Now, I don’t feel to bad about discouraging Rich on his hike. I had told him about this spot.

Sorry, it is hard to write with it getting dark and the deer snorting and making all kinds of racket around my tent.

Back to the story. Rich was only minutes from reaching the spot the trail crosses the avalanche chute. Rich has no Microspikes, much less an ice axe. Rich turned around without facing that danger.

Meanwhile, Weetz had no Microspikes or Ice axe either. He slipped and went hurtling down the slope. He stopped himself by using his … dang those deer … their snorts kind of startle you when you are by yourself in the dark woods…

He stopped himself by using his forearm as an ice axe, but he dragged it in the dirt when the ice ran out. He showed me a photo of his forearm that was a bloody mess. He showed me a photo of a sketch ice cornice that he had to walk out on where the trail started to cross the chute. I recognized it because I remember thinking at the time that I was glad the trail didn’t cross there, but it did cross there. One other thing, Weetz was one of the tracks I was following the 2nd day through Squaw Valley. He also met snowshoe guy and they were walking together for a while. I had to explain the word snowshoe to Weetz. His English is very good, but he didn’t know that word. What? A shoe made out of snow? Won’t it melt? Naw, he didn’t say that. I saw both the snowshoe tracks and Weetz tracks together in Squaw Valley.

It was warmer today and most of the snow had not frozen, so I couldn’t simply walk across the top with Microspikes like I was walking down a street. With every step, my foot sank and there was snow hiking. Lots of it! The good thing was that there were no treacherous slopes to worry about. The bad thing was that I couldn’t see the trail and had to use GPS a lot and wandered aimlessly through trees and huge sloped mounds of snow. 

There were at least 3 long stretches of trail that was snow covered. After finally getting out of the first and longest, I started to figure out how to navigate better using Guthook. With no worry about dangerous snow crossings, I began to relax more and have a little fun figuring out my route. Sometimes I came out of the snow exactly on top of the trail. It kind of surprised me at how accurate I had gotten. My apologies to whoever follows my aimless and lost tracks that I made before getting the hang of navigating.  They are going to be really mad at me for taking them through tangles of trees and branches and adding a lot of unnecessary walking.

One thing about walking through forest with 6 – 10 feet of snow…there are things under that snow. Things such as running water or full blown streams. There are large boulders, logs, and trees. Yes, trees. That’s right. There could be a spruce that is bent over from heavy snow and completely buried in that position, which leads to my story. 

I’m walking through the woods as usual, climbing big mounds of snow and hoping that I’m going in something like the generally correct direction. I step up to the top of a giant pile of snow when a tree pops out of the snow and slaps me in the leg. I look around and see that I am surrounded by spring loaded saplings bent to the snow and ready to punish me. Oh great! The postholing isn’t enough. Which brings me to postholing.

What qualifies as postholing? The worst that I ever experienced was I the Smokies. With every other step I would break through a  hard crust of ice and drop hard 8 – 12 inches. I then had to lift my foot vertically to free it from the crusty ice hole. I literally counted steps between rest breaks. Not every postholing is that bad. I was usually sinking only a few inches. Here are photos of my postholes where I sank to my hip. 

Here is stream posthole.

This is the trail.

Here is the Peter Grimm skin cabin.

Here is the area where I saw cross-country skiers.

Here is snow I had to walk

Here is a footbridge and creek.

Here is the trail.

Here is a pine sapling ready to spring up 

Here is my tent where deer visited

Here is road covered with  snow

S

Here I had a long snow walk.