Category: Slickrock Creek Wilderness

Kayaking and Hiking Slickrock Creek

June 27 – 29, 2015

From Magazine Branch Campground and Boat Ramp on Calderwood Lake via one man Ocean Kayak (Yak Board) to campsite on Slickrock Creek, then hiking Slickrock Creek trail past Lower Falls and Wildcat Falls to Big Fat Gap and returned to campsite via Windy Gap, Nichols Cove, Yellowhammer, and Slickrock Creek trails.

Early morning view from Calderwood Lake down channel of Slickrock Creek.

Many others were sleeping in their cars, tents, and hammocks. They were up late so I didn’t get much sleep.

Launch point.

It was less than a mile downstream to the Slickrock Creek entrance.

While paddling to Slickrock creek hugging the far shore when I came upon a duck with about 8 – 10 ducklings. While watching the duck family skitter away across the calm water I suddenly heard a couple of loud snorts on the bank to my back. I looked over and imagined that I saw a bear in the shadows. I wondered momentarily whether a bear could swim out to my kayak and whether I could out paddle it. It turned out to be my imagination. The bear was an old stump and the snort turned out to be a river otter who would stick his head out from the rocks to warn me away with his otter barks.

That evening after completing the hike from base camp I took the kayak out to explore further downstream.

I am setting out in the direction shown here.

My campsite where Slickrock Creek spills into Lake Calderwood.

Upper portion of Windy Gap Trail is where the road to Big Fat Gap was closed years ago to make the trail. This was the easiest walking of the day. I had forgotten how tough wilderness hiking can be with very steep and slippery sections and unmaintained trails.

My only views of the day were from Windy Gap Trail.

June 29, 2015
Flats Mountain Hike – Citico Creek Wilderness Area

Flats Mountain Hike – Citico Creek Wilderness Area

View from Cherehola Skyway on morning of my start

August 14, 2010

I pulled the van over at Eagle Gap marked by a sign with the hiker/backpacker symbol and unloaded my mountain bike. I my collapsed hiking poles stuck out of the top of my day pack. I carried 8 oz bottles of water, homemade chlorine drops, a lighter, iphone, blackberry, fruit granola bars, and a mix of almonds, raisins, and dark chocolate covered almonds.

Mountain Biking between trailheads and hiking back to car.

It was a quick downhill descent for 4.6 miles on the Cherehola Skyway to the Indian Boundary turnoff. I was soon on unpaved forest service road where I continued the next 8 – 9 miles up and down past the lower Flats Mountain trailhead (marked with trail number 102 post) at Bee House Gap (elev. 2760 feet), Citico Creek, the right turn leading up Double Camp Creek, past the Mill Branch trailhead (96 sign post), and finally to the Crowder Branch trailhead (84 sign post). I hid my bike on a creek bank with a lock wrapped around a good sized tree.

Early on I came upon a noisy rattling bush where I could spy some sort of furry animal. It had no regard for my presence and continued its activity. With such commotion it seemed to be a good sized animal, but I couldn’t get a good look. Suddenly two squirrels exited the bush and went streaking around trees and back and forth, then finally down the trail directly toward me as if I didn’t exist. I considered the possibility of rabid squirrels I readied myself for defense as the approaching squirrels were about to land on me. Just before landing on me they sprung to an adjacent tree where they continued their mad chase farther away from me.

Crowder Branch was a 2.6 mile walk that was always close to water to within a tenth of a mile at its high point termination with Fodderstack Trail. The upper portions at times it went steeply up and in and between rocky drainages or stream beds where it was difficult to discern the next piece of trail. It later leveled somewhat at the higher elevations where the rocky drainages more spread out and muddy courses. There was a campsite in a large grassy clearing next to a barely flowing stream about a tenth of a mile from Fodderstack.

I turned south (right) on Fodderstack and quickly reached the intersection with Big Stamp Gap trail (water can also be found down this trail within two tenths of a mile and to the right). I continued south past the intersection of Mill Branch trail to the right (again, water and a campsite is down a steep hill about two tenths of a mile). There is no water on Fodderstack trail itself for most of its distance.

After a climb part way up Big Fodderstack Mountain, I turned right onto Pine Ridge Trail (99) and followed 35 miles. This was a very nice trail with a gradual steady descent and views into the south portion of the Citico valley. It soon began raining very hard and temperatures dropped. I had on raincoat so I kept moving to stay warm. About the time I reached Citico Creek the rain had eased off some.

I followed forest service road 345 south to Bee House gap and the lower trailhead of Flats Mountain trail. This trail was overgrown in places. My bare legs were bleeding from tearing briers and blackberry vines. The trail had gradual switchbacks in places where one would typically expect a direct approach. With overgrowth and meandering switchbacks, the trail seemed longer than its six miles. I moved across narrow ridge lines quickly as wind picked up and thunder began to rumble. Though wooded, much of this trail seemed exposed, but the storms were elsewhere.

Back to my van, after side trips to retrieve my bike and to the Subway Sandwich shop in Tellico Plains, I drove farther up the Cherehola into North Carolina. I pulled over at Mudd Gap, where a sign indicated that the Benton McKaye led from this point to Whigg’s Meadow 1.5 miles away. Wearing my Chaco sandels with hammock and sleeping bag stuffed in my day pack, sleeping pad strapped to the outside and pillow in hand, I stumbled my way up the weedy, muddy, and rocky road-trail to this beautiful spot. When I arrived, I came upon a parking lot and a number of people with tents set up in the meadow. I could have driven here. I strung my hammock up between two trees at the edge of the meadow and I drank my red wine and enjoyed the view.

Sunset at Whiggs Meadow (above)

August 15, 2010

I was awake as the sky barely began to lighten. It was still a long time before the sun would be over the horizon. In short order, I had my hammock and bag stowed in my day pack and I was hiking across the meadow and entering the darkened woods.

I pulled my van over to Stratton Meadows pull off where there were restrooms and picnic tables. I was able to spread out and prepare my oatmeal and Starbucks coffee (thank you Farley and Susan for the Starbucks 50^th birthday present) while sitting at a picnic table. What a luxury to have a table!

This time, I parked at Rattlesnake and rode my mountain bike mostly 2 miles downhill to Grassy Gap. There were great views to enjoy as I crossed a bridge that spanned a small gorge.

The hike was down Grassy Branch Trail to the South Fork Citico Creek trail (Maura and I had already hiked S Fork Citico), then upstream direction to Jefferey Hell Trail and back to my van. Grassy Branch was a mossy, boulder, and fern mountain creek with little spillways and splashes. It felt lush and green. South Fork Citico Creek was beautiful with the larger pools and bigger drops of water. The hike on the South Fork reminded me of how hard this trail could be. It ascended steeply from the creekside and crossed heavily overgrown areas. I couldn’t believe that I took Maura on this trail when she was around 12 years old.

Jefferey Hell Trail was a little climb for a while, but quickly reached a road that for once wasn’t overgrown with stinging nettle and briars. This trail may have been the easiest hiking on the entire trip. I played with the GPS App on my Iphone as I walked this trail. The road appeared on the topo map and my track followed it to the intersection with the parking area at Rattlesnake on the Cherehola. Today was a nice day, but by the time I finished at noon, I could see clouds already forming.

August 18, 2010
Brush Mountain Trail Hike

July 23, 2010

Here is the plan. Rebecca and her three friends, Andy, Brady, and Mike, take my car to Beech Gap on the Cherehola Highway and I take the our van to Tapoca Dam at the trailhead for the Slickrock Creek trail. We hike toward one another’s vehicles via different routes. I arrive at Beech Gap and drive away the car; Rebecca and friends drive away the van at the other end. Rebecca’s route has more downhill. She starts at 4,490 feet elevation and ends at 1,160 feet. Rebecca travels about 17 – 18 miles over 3 days. I hike 27 miles over two days.

Here I am at about midnight on a Friday evening at Tapoca Dam Slickrock trailhead, camped out in the back of the Sienna Minivan. It makes a great camper. I have the interior lights disabled with the rear hatch and sunroof open. The windows are rolled down most of the way. This van makes a great camper! I am sleeping on my regular pillow and using extra blankets and sleeping pads so I don’t have to unpack the backpack. I will be able to start early in the morning without having to repack or break camp.

July 24, 2010

Hike Slickrock Creek trail to Ike Branch (44), take Yellow Hammer (I first hiked this one in the snow earlier this year), finally take north section of Nichols Gap trail. This adds a couple of unnecessary miles, but I hadn’t ever hiked the north section of Nichols Gap trail. Soon before I reach my first top on Ike Branch trail, a Turkey loudly launches itself from a tree and crosses in front of me, slowly rising with pounding wings and cracking branches. It is already warm and without breezes, I am soaked.

I head south (upstream) on Slickrock creek. I stop to swim where a slanted rock face dips into a pool of cool water. Later, I stop at Wildcat falls where I swim more and lay in the sun. I spell “Hi Rebecca” by arranging twigs on the ledge of the lower falls. I snooze on the warm rocks. The creek is way down. I can cross everywhere by rock hopping.

Butterflies at Wildcat Falls

Make the climb up Big Stack Gap trail, then a mile south on Fodderstack to Mill Creek trail.

View of the Hangover from Fodderstack Trail at around 1 PM. Rebecca later told me that she was on Hangover at that time.

Mill Creek followed by Rocky Flats trail are two trails that I hadn’t yet hiked. Great camp spot with GIANT oak tree about 100 yards down Mill Creek trail from Fodderstack. There is a creek here. Note the water source for Fodderstack, with it being a somewhat dry trail.

Giant Oak Tree at nice campsite at top end of Mill Creek Trail

About 4:30 PM, while hiking Rocky Flats, I startle a very large bear. He runs up hill and the brief look at his side and hind quarters is enough to know that this is easily the largest bear I have ever encountered.

Camp at horseshoe bend on Citico Creek where Rocky Flats trail comes out. As I spread my Tyvek and begin to collapse after this 18 plus mile day, I notice that my lower legs are covered with ticks. I pick off at least 10 ticks and I continue finding more ticks until I finally go to sleep. I cool off again in Citico creek. For supper I have mashed potatoes with olive oil and a box of red wine. Listen to some podcasts which helps to finish off my Iphone battery, become bored, and build a little campfire. The forest service road (59) is just on the other side of Citico creek. I sleep with the tarp tent pulled open on 3 sides. It is still hot. Wake up in the middle of the night with something wet and slimy on my face. It was a snail. After jumping up and slapping the slimy whatever from my face, I put on the headlamp, find the snail, pick it up, and hurl it.

July 25, 2010

Hike along forest service road 59, following Citico creek upstream. Reach the South Citico Creek trail and hike another mile as I look for the indications of Brush Mountain trail. Tim Homan’s book provides detail on how to find this seldom hiked trail. I was hoping for a sign or at least a numbered trail mark post. No post, no sign. Following Tim’s direction, I find the likely spot and cross S Citico creek, next to Ike Branch. There is a junky campsite on the other side, but no sign of trail. I walk around he campsite and deadend into Ike Branch on the downstream direction of S Citico Creek. I walk in the upstream direction (S Citico Cree) away from Ike Branch and come into another campsite. Looking back to the left, I see a trail that angles up the hill back toward Ikes Branch. Exactly as stated in the guide. Once the trailhead was found, this trail was surprisingly easy to follow. Hatch marks on trees and surveyor’s tape tied to branches led the way. The undergrowth had also been maintained. This trail was difficult with a steady climb and finally several steep up’s and down’s with no apparent reason.

Giant Mushroom on Brush Mountain Trail (The Secret Trail)

Close up of Giant Mushroom. It measured 28 inches in diameter.

At the top, I followed Cold Spring and Fodderstack back to Beech Gap.

Bee Balm (Oswego Tea) shown here and many other wildflowers, blackberries, and stinging nettle can be found on a former road that is now Cold Spring Trail.

At Beech Gap and the Cherehola there was a sign strapped to the gate cable. It read “Dad, Car is parked in parking lot to the left. Rebecca”. Rebecca had parked the car about a quarter mile down the road, not knowing whether it was okay to park at the unmarked trailhead pulloff.

July 26, 2010
Stiffknee Hike

Stiffknee In December

Day 1

December 20^th 2009

Why would I leave on a snowy December weekend to go on a solo hike in a seldom visited North Carolina mountain wilderness area? Could it be that withdrawal symptoms are taking hold? A return to the solitude of the mountains and the adventure of the hike seems the best cure. It is time to notch another new trail on my backpacking waist strap.

At 4:30 AM on a Saturday morning I am pulling out of the neighborhood. Two and a half hours later, I am on the Tapoca Dam US Hwy 129 pull off on the southern side of the Little Tennessee river. I unload my backpack and stuff in a few last minute items found laying around in the backseat floorboard. US Highway 19 from Andrews, NC to Robbinsville, NC had been outlined with fresh white snowplowed ridges. The Cheowa river roared fiercely along the highway outside beyond Robbinsville as it spread outside its banks through the trees and plunged steeply over rocks down the mountain gorge. I worry about having to cross Slickrock Creek on foot while loaded with backpack. If it is anything like the Cheowa river, I won’t attempt it.

In the valley there is no snow cover. I climb the steep valley of Ike Creek and make my way back down to Slickrock Creek. Here are the first of two Slickrock creek crossings. I decide to keep things dry, so I try the crossing with pants, shoes, and socks strapped to the top of my pack. Stepping in, my bare feet immediately started slipping on the invisible submerged rocks. Not good, yet I am still in the calmer waters than swirl near the bank. I choose my steps more wisely and move toward the main show; the deep plunging central current. Feeling my way with bare feet across the this current, I step deeper and descend to my upper-thigh. I quickly feel my balance slipping way. Another step and I lean forward to grasp a large bolder in midstream. The bolder splits the center of the more powerful mid-stream. I move on 3 or 4 more feet, crossing the next chute before finding the safe calm waters along the far bank. A good feeling, but now I have 2 days to worry about further snowmelt swelling the stream before I make my return crossing. At least it will be a few miles upstream.

Slickrock Creek Crossing

Safely Across Slickrock Creek

I continue up the far bank along the Slickrock Creek trail for 0.6 miles before turning west on Stiffknee Creek trail. The trail regularly traverses a creek just big enough to be impossible to rock hop. I give up the idea of dry boots. By now, with rising elevation, the snow is deep enough that my boots would have been wet in any event. I see no others out here. No human footprints; only the tracks of a canine’s sedulous and focused procession along the trail. A coyote would have given the trail up. This had to be a lone dog. I tire of creek crossings and my wandering mind celebrates each time the trail pulls up the hill and away from the creek. A few miles in, the 3.4 mile Stiffknee trail begins its ascent to the ridge and the snow deepens a couple of inches. The dog tracks continue.

StiffKnee Trail Dog Tracks

I reach the parking pull off at the intersection of FS-59 and Fodderstack Trail. The dog tracks leave me as they take toward the Forest Service Road. Several 4 wheel drive tracks mark the snow along the winding road. I turn onto Fodderstack Trail and resume climbing. Near the Little Tennessee River where I set out, the elevation was a very low 1160 feet; however, I now climb as high as 3640 feet. Snow deepens to about 5 inches and snow begins to fall. Lightly at first. I find a signal and call Maura. I ask her to write down the names of the trails where I am hiking. I had forgotten to leave an itinerary. Still haven’t seen other people.

Taking a break nearby to call Maura.

On Fodderstack Trail

At 2:30 PM, it is still early, but in the snow, 10 miles of hiking seemed like a good 13. At this time of year I am only 3 hours from dusk. I stop at Big Stack Gap (3360 feet elevation, snow depth 5 inches) to make camp. Tossing the backpack under a tree, I begin using one of my Crocs to clear snow for my sleeping spot. Taking a break, I notice that my sleeping pad is missing. It is fallen off somewhere up the trail. I halt the snow removal to hike back beyond the Crowder Trail turnoff to recover the Wal-Mart blue foam pad where it lay near one of the snow bent rhododendron branches that I had pushed through. Before nightfall, I make a 2nd side trip down Big Stack Gap Trail to find water. Fortunately, it is very close. Tim Homan’s trail guide states that there is no water through this section of Fodderstack. It neglects to mention that water can be had with a short detour down Big Stack Gap Trail.

I resume my snow digging and set up my tarp with snow banked to the sides. With pride I snap a photo of my winter snow camp. I eat a little tuna wrapped in tortilla. Though only 3 PM, I lie down in my down bag and fall asleep.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

My Tarp Tent before it sags under another 4 inches of snow.

I rise in about an hour, but don’t feel hungry, walk around a little, bored. Listen to podcasts and finally feel a little hungry as the sun disappears. It is snowing harder. I cook the Stovetop Stuffing. I add chicken and a little more stove fuel to warm the chicken. It is dark and I see steam coming from the lid. A minute later I smell a burning. In tight quarters, had I leaned too close over the flame? I check my fleece hat for scorching. No, the smell was from Stovetop Stuffing à la carbon. I eat it anyway. It continues to snow. Not much to do. I am in my Crocs and I don’t want to walk around outside in the deepening snow. I listen to more podcasts until I fall asleep. Suffering from nocturia as typical of men my age, I need to get up to relieve myself several times. It is a laborious process. No room to maneuver in this tiny tarp and sleeping bag. I extricate myself and unclip my rigged Tyvek tarp opening. Snow drifts in. My last dry pair of socks are off my feet and stowed away to dry so I am barefoot. Even my Crocs tend to drag snow back under the tarp and onto my down bag and clothing, therefore I go unshodden into the snow. My bare feet sink into the several inches of new crystals on top of the 5 inches already there. Feet become numb while standing in the snow. I carefully insert myself back in under the tarp headfirst while hanging my feet out the opening. I rub away the droplets of snow melt before pulling my feet under the tarp. I then contort as I turn head to feet and feet to head. To prevent mopping of condensation onto myself and my bag, I attempt to avoid brushing against a snow and mosture weighted ceiling that progressively sags. Impossible! The outer layer of my down bag becomes slick wet. I then struggle in the dark with little black office paper clasps that I use to attach a triangular patch of Tyvek across the tarp opening. This process repeats. In between, I suffer long periods of one discomfort in exchange for postponement of another.

The snow deepens and collects on the tarp. The tarp gradually shrinks and hugs the sleeping back at my waist and legs. Only a little space exists at my head and feet where hiking poles support what is familiarly called Sil-Nyl by us hikers. The product label would use the longer appellation of Silicone Impregnated Nylon to describe this highly desirable high-tech lightweight fabric. The sleeping bag drips as the tarp takes on the dimensions of a bivy covered in 4 inches of fresh snow. I hear the pelting snow, sometimes hard, sometimes light, but all night.

Day 2

December 21st, 2009

There is finally light enough to get up and retrieve my food bag that I had thrown under a nearby log. I hadn’t bothered to wander through the snow to find a limb from which to hang my food. With concerns of warmth and dryness, I had given little thought for food sniffing bears.

At first, I want to throw all in the pack and move on without eating. After putting on my boots, I feel well enough to heat water for oatmeal. I don’t bother with coffee. How sad to forgo my favorite outdoor addiction. I pack quickly and take to deep untouched snow. My numb toes thaw as I move downhill and push through ice and snow laden branches. At times the trail is difficult to pick out. I hear a dog bark about 40 feet below. No view, only snow and dense growth. After several minutes it occurs to me that there could be a silent human companion in trouble. I call out. “Anyone there?” “Anyone there?” More barks, but no response. Probably a hunting dog.

As I descend I become more concerned with wandering off the trail. A helpful deer has laid tracks along one long portion, but at times the trail almost disappears. After 1.7 miles, I am back to Slickrock Creek at a spot where I had camped in a warmer season during my first trip to this wilderness. From here it is 0.6 miles upstream along the Slickrock Creek trail to the spot where I ford and join the Big Fat Gap trail. The stream looks much calmer here and I relax. The ford doesn’t compare to the first. This time I cross without the delay of taking off boots. I easily walked across the stream.

On the other bank it is challenging to find the way. There is a maze of multiple paths and campsites making it difficult to find the right trail. Slickrock Creek Trail joins Big Fat Gap Trail and a little further on joins Nichols Gap Trail. The trail guide helps and I soon find signs for both trail junctions.

Snow is an inch at most in these lower areas, but the trail becomes even harder to follow along Nichols Gap Trail and later Yellow Hammer Gap Trail (total distance of this section was 3.3 miles). The junction of these two trails has a ten foot diameter circle lined with rocks with a couple of tiny headstones set in the center. Two baby girl twins of the Nichols family are buried here. These trails are narrow, often obscured by dead-fall, and difficult to pick out. On transitions I spend time wandering around in a search for trail continuations. I believe these trails would be just as difficult to follow in the summer. Only 50 yards past the Nichols family cemetery and the Nichols/Yellowhammer trail junction, the Yellowhammer trail seems to completely disappear. After backtracking to the trail junction, resuming the trail and again perplexed at the missing trail, I try a likely direction and finally confirm a trail by tread and cut logs. Back to Ike Branch Trail, I complete a loop and I am on familiar terrain. No longer a danger of getting lost or having to reroute. A final observation are some interesting tracks along a snow covered log near Ike Branch. The front paws are like a cat with 3 toe pads. The rear paws have about 8 pads arranged in a circle. The trail is even, the animal a perfect walker. I can’t find this in my track book.

December 26, 2009