Category: Smoky Mountains

This 3 day solo backpacking trip covered trails on the north and west ends of Cades Cove including Rich Mountain Loop, Ace Gap Trail, Hannah Mountain Trail and Rabbit Creek Trail and comprised 38.9 trail miles. My van and bicycle was used to position among trailheads on Cades Cove Loop road and Parson’s Branch road.

Getting There:

Nearing midnight on Thursday, I drove past Tremont and on to the end of Middle Prong Rd where I slept in the rear of my Sienna mini-van. It was a dark starry night with only a sliver of moon for the first couple of hours. Early Friday morning I drove on to Cades Cove. Rich Mountain Loop trail head can be found to the right just a few yards past where the road becomes the 1-way Cades Cove loop. Park in the parking lot to the left if you don’t want to be stuck on the 11 mile 1-way traffic jam.

Day 1, November 8, 2013 – “Hot Apple Cider on Cerulean Knob”

Day 1 Route & Mileage – 15.2 miles

West side of Rich Mountain Loop – 2.9 miles, Indian Grave Gap Trail to Rich Mtn Road and return to Cerulean Knob – 3.0 miles, Rich Mountain Trail – 2.3 miles, Ace Gap Trail to Campsite 3 – 6.4 miles

It was a 30 degree morning with clear skies. I cooked oatmeal and coffee in the parking lot to the left of the start of the 1-way loop drive. After breakfast, I dropped my pack behind a nearby fallen tree just a feet down Rich Mountain Loop trail then drove down the Cades Cove loop to the Cooper Road trail. There I found a small pull off on the opposite side road from this trail head. Wrapped up in gloves, fleece hat, and rain suit, I pulled my mountain bike out of the back and began pedaling on around the loop to my eventual return to my stashed away backpack.

On this trip I was tried out alternating between running shoes and hiking boots. Today, I carried my boots strapped to the back of the back while I glided along the kindly surface of Rich Mountain Loop trail. Trail conditions were good all day long so I remained shod in running shoes.

At the top of Cerulean Knob I reached the first and only people of the day. (Besides the numerous tourists where the trail approached the Oliver cabin.) Richard and Jason were enjoying hot drinks and were gracious enough to share. I ordered hot apple cider and they filled me in on GoSmokies.com.

I am always reading in the brown book about various lumber companies that conducted operations in various areas of the Smokies that I have hiked. I came across this map on a display at the Oliver cabin (A stop along Rich Mtn Loop Trail). This puts some order into the lumber company stories.

Yes, I need to include trail signs.

House viewed from Ace Gap TrailDay 2 – Up Parson’s Branch without a paddle, “uh, I mean without a mountain bike”

Day 2 Route & Mileage – 14.2 miles

From CS 3 on Beard Cane Trail – 4.2 miles, Cooper Rd Trail – 5.5 miles, Bicycle to Hannah Mtn Trailhead on Parson’s Branch Road, Hannah Mountain Trail to Flint Gap Campsite (CS-14) – 4.5 miles

Saturday seemed like 2 days of hiking. The first hike was with early morning frost and blown out trees along Beard Cane trail and Cooper Road trail. A tornado had ripped apart trees and left wide open marshy areas along Beard Cane trail. The new landscape was crowded with large blackberry canes and filled with the chorus of bird song. It reminded me of the variety of landscapes and experiences in the Smokies was much greater than many would suppose.

The second hike of the day followed another Cades Cove Loop drive, peanut butter sandwiches at the visitor center (why did backpack that peanut butter and next 2 days of meals when I was returning to my car the next morning?), and an ice cream cone from the snack bar.

I retrieved my bike from its hidden place in the woods and drove back to the pull off at Cooper Road trail head. Since Parson’s Branch Road is one-way and I had no desire to drive it’s length (and more) to pre-position my backpack at the Hannah Moutain trail head, I rode my mountain bike with 20 plus pounds of backpack; hiking poles threaded through sleeping pad. It must have been a silly sight for the line of touring cars that I joined.

The road turned to gravel at the Parson’s Branch turnoff. I soon found the road steeper and in worse condition than I recalled from the time I had hiked this section of the road several years ago. I consider myself a strong enough bicycle rider, but the steep sections soon out lasted my legs. I was already pushing the bike up the steeper sections when my bicycle seat seemed to tilt further back. Thinking of a seat adjustment, I came off the seat just as the metal bicycle frame came apart at the bicycle seat post. Now the seat moved to the lowest possible position. I sat on the mountain bicycle with a large pack on my back and my knees to my chest. With shortened winter days and a 4.5 mile hike ahead of me, I needed to move faster than a walk. My solution was to ride standing up when ascending or push my bike when really ascending. I sat and coasted on the few downhills. Fortunately, I arrived at Hannah Mountain Trail in good shape, but a little worn out. Even more fortunately, Hannah Mountain Trail was the easiest most pleasant walk in the entire Smokies. The trail bed was in good shape without rock or root and the trail itself was as near to level as I had ever seen on a mountain. Hannah Mountain trail should not be missed in the late autumn with a mix of tree color and bare tree views. To the southwest I had views of Joyce Kimler / Slickrock Creek Wilderness’ Fodderstack Mountain and Hahoe Bald. When the trail switched to the northeast side of the ridge I could see Cades Cove and LeConte in the further distance.

That dark night I sat by a lonely campfire; having seen only one other person on Hannah Mountain Trail. Though listening to Walden through my headphones I could hear a commotion of snapping limbs and rustling only a little way up the trail. There was no wind, not even a breeze that could make those funny sounds that trees make when they rub together. I replaced the headphones with headlamp and looked toward the noise and wondered what kind of creature could be making that racket. A bear? I didn’t investigate.

 

Hiker Alert: Water source for Flint Gap Campsite 14 is about 0.2 miles up the hill (Parson’s Branch Road direction) from the campsite. Small trickle crossing trail.

Day 3 – “Hiking to Coon’s Butt and Beyond”

Day 3 Route & Mileage – 10.1 miles

From Flint Gap Campsite (CS-14) on Hannah Mountain Trail – 4.5 miles, Rabbit Creek Trail – 5.1 miles

The skies were somewhat clouded overnight, but even with warmer temps the morning sky was clear blue. I was soon in shorts and shirtsleeves; however, after turning from Hannah Mountain Trail and dropping to Rabbit Creek I was reminded how the climes in the mountains could change in a few short steps. It felt like the temperature had dropped 20 degrees as I descended down a rocky stream bed path toward Rabbit Creek. My hands were cold so I kept up my speed and waited for a warming ascent. At Rabbit Creek campsite I spotted a seated woman huddled and wrapped up in parka and full compliment of winter clothes. Bent on preserving her warmth she didn’t notice me striding by in shorts and short-sleeves. I yelled out a cheery “Good Morning” as I passed by. She looked over and replied and probably wondered how the devil I could be walking around in shorts. She wouldn’t have known just how warm it had been a few minutes earlier on the sunny higher slopes of Hannah Mountain trail.

I wisely chose my hiking boots over running shoes this day. The trail was rocky enough having those nasty king size Idaho potato rocks that hide among the thick leaves in wait for some unfortunate to attempt a place kick field goal. It seemed I made wise choices on the footwear. I chose my running shoes the afternoon before on the easy tread of Hannah Mountain trail and my boots that same morning as I sloshed through the marshy parts of Beard Cane trail.

Finally I finished out my hike by reviewing the map and seeing that my last point prior to descending into the cover had been named Coon’s Butt. What I nice goal to reach for! It motivated me on the the last ascents along Rabbit Creek Trail.

This hike came with an epilogue. I had a final mile in Cades Cove along Wet Bottom Trail. Funny how this trail just feet from the road was the most difficult to navigate and how it had the most difficult stream crossing. I rock hopped my way across Abram’s creek, then ran 3 more plunging steps so quickly that though the water came over my boots, only the tops of my wools socks became wet. Thank you GoreTex and quick feet.

Wildlife: Heard something in the dark woods. In the cove, saw too many deer to count, including a friendly buck sitting 2 feet off the road and posing for each car. This caused a 20 minute traffic back up. Saw over a dozen turkeys on Wet Bottom trail. Saw 4 or 5 additional turkeys on the long long drive down Parson’s Branch Road. Saw a very large Owl near the intersection of Rich Mountain Loop trail and Indian Grave Gap trail. The owl with wide head kept moving from tree to tree down the trail. Entertainment was to relocate the bird after each short flight. Those mottled feathers look exactly like the bark of a tree.

 

Day 1 – Carolina Silverbells

July 12th, 2013

Cosby, Low Gap Trail to Big Creek Trail, return on Big Creek Trail to AT – 7.5 miles
Appalachian Trail (AT) to Mt Cammerer. Mt Cammerer to Lower Mt Cammerer trail to Gilliland Creek Creek Campsite 35. approx 9.2 miles
Total Day mileage – 16.7 miles

Climbing Low Gap Trail I first began noticing a tree with white flowers strung along underneath branches. Having read about the Carolina Silver Bell tree back when I was hiking the Slickrock Creek wilderness, I was happy to finally have seen it in bloom. In the days to come I would continue to see Carolina Silver Bell flowers both on the trees and covering patches of the trail.

I dropped my pack in some weeds where Low Gap trail intersected the AT. I continued down the eastern side of the ridge all of the way to Big Creek where I had camped several years ago. I turned around and made the round trip back to my pack at Low Gap. On the way down I saw a curious little bird that made it’s nest next to the trail in a little opening between rocks. It startled me a little as it flew past me and settled on a branch above my head. I inspected the ground until I found the hidden nesting cave from which it had magically appeared. Meanwhile, the bird angrily chirped at me as it hopped from branch to branch.

 

I met a several people along the AT and soon encountered a ranger who checked my backcountry pass. I complained about the new system (implemented in February) this year that required payment for backcountry campsites. It turned out that this ranger was a “new hire” that had become employed using the collections from this new Park Service revenue stream. My guess is that the small amount collected would barely pay for the ranger or two that was hired to enforce the collections. I stopped for lunch at Mt. Cammerer and tried to relax as I watched dark storm clouds gather on the eastern ridges over the Big Creek valley. The no see-um and other tiny bugs made it hard to relax. There was a steady stream of visitors at the Mt. Cammerer overlook. Speaking with one of the visitors, I found out that he was an ultra long-distance runner.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The view from Mt. Cammerer is spectacular. It has an incredible prominence for these mountains which makes it easily identifiable. After about 5 more miles of hiking north on the AT and southwest on Lower Mt. Cammerer trail I came to a spot where Mt. Cammerer seemed to loom directly over my head. It had seemed that I had come the long way. From where I was the top of Mt. Cammerer seemed a short mile hike straight up.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At Gilliland Creek Campsite all spaces seemed to be taken. I moved off the left of the trail and into the woods to set up my tarp in an overgrown area. I later found out that I was in the horse rider’s camp. Farther down the trail was a broad open area for hiking campers. Only a single tent was set up there. I was exhausted and moving a little slow, but the gentle downhill of Lower Mt. Cammerer trail had made the last several miles easy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 2 – Big Poplars in Peaceful Rain Soaked Forest – 15.5 miles

Campsite 35 on Lower Mount Cammerer Trail to Cosby – 3.3 miles
Gabes Mountain Trail – 6.6 miles
Albright Cove Loop Trail side trip – 1.1 miles
Maddron Bald Trail to Otter Creek Campsite 29 (elevation 4560 ft) – 4.5 miles

It was still early morning and just beginning to rain by the time I walked up to the Cosby parking lot and hopped into my van. By the time I had driven back up highway 321 and settled into the snack bar at a gas station convenience store the rain was coming down hard. While waiting on an order of omelet and pancakes I drank coffee refills as I read the local advertising rag. I shopped the snack aisle. After a filling my stomach and cleaning up in the bathroom I felt recharged and ready for Gabes Mountain trail. By the time I returned to Cosby, the rain was tapering off; not to return.

The soothing muffled silence played through towering rain-soaked trees of Gabes Mountain trail. It filtered out sharper sound, leaving only the usually suppressed sounds of dripping leaves, far-away bird calls, and a light footstep. Such memories provide the sort of feelings I try my best to capture for later recall when needed.

Only yards before the intersection of Gabes Mountain trail with Maddron Bald trail I surprised a bear as I rounded a bend in the trail. The bear turned toward me and kept turning toward the lower side of the trail as he trotted off into the woods.

I had planned to lunch on a bench that I had recalled being on Maddron Bald trail right at this trail intersection. With a little apprehension, I put a short distance between myself and the bear before settling down to lunch at a sunny spot a couple hundred yards farther up Maddron Bald trail. Even then, I thought that the bear might smell my tuna fish and wish to return for a share of my lunch.

Albright Cove Loop trail didn’t seem to offer large Poplars any more impressive that Poplars I had seen on Maddron Bald trail or even parts of Gabe Mountain trail. I recommend Gabe Mountain trail and Maddron Bald trail as trails that be hiked to enjoy their beautiful large trees. In addition, Gabe Mountain trail is easily hiked without much slope and with easy trail bed. A day hike from Cosby to Hen Wallow Falls and return would be a less strenuous way to have an enjoyable day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 3 – A long day of fast hiking along ridges, rocks, boulders, and creeks – 19.3 miles

 

Maddron Bald Trail to intersection with Snake Den Ridge Trail – 1.6 mi
Snake Den Ridge to Appalachian Trail and return to Cosby via Snake Den Ridge – 6.0 mi
Ramsey Cascades Trail and Return – 8.0 mi
Brushy Mountain Trail to Porter Creek Trail to Porter Flats Campsite 31 – 3.7 mi

I was easily the first one out of a crowded Otters Creek Campsite. By the time other residents rolled out of their sleeping bags, I was probably on Maddron Bald or perhaps at the AT intersection.

I moved quickly enough to surprise some guys camping along Snake Den Ridge a nice open, but unofficial campsite. Hope the trail police don’t find them.

Back to the van and another trip this time to the convenience store where I loaded up on Papa’s pizza and gatorade. Using their bathroom, I cleaned up again as I left socks, etc. draped over the van to dry a little.

By the time I loaded up and drove over to Greenbrier Road and crossed the Little Pigeon River to arrive at the Ramsey Cascades trailhead, it was past 3 PM. With the day growing short, I continued a fast pace as I began passing many other walkers on the way to the Cascades. The sun was dropping and it was growing late by the time I reached the falls. The last couple miles of the trail were difficult with rocks and boulders and uneven short steep climbs. I actually worried about a few slow moving hikers that had yet to reach the falls and needed to return before sunset; however, I had my own concerns. I had to return 4 miles to the trailhead, drive to Brushy Mountain / Porters Creek trailhead, and hike to Porters Flat campsite. Upon reaching the road portion of Ramsey Creek Trail, I began alternating runs with quick paced walks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At the Brushy Mountain parking lot I met a couple of guys getting out of the car. They were also hiking to Porter Flats for the night. After a few words, they started down the trail while I pulled out the remainder of a cold pizza from the box and began wolfing down supper while seated in the van. Packing up and checking my gear, I started up the road at a quick pace. About a mile before Porter Flats, I finally caught the pair of hikers. We made the campsite with plenty of time to set up in the light.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 4 – Kanati Fork Trail

Kanati Fork Trail and return – 5.8 miles

Returned along Porter Creek trail, then drove back through Gatlinburg and up 441 over Newfound Gap. At Kanati Fork trail I pulled over and did a quick day hike to Thomas Divide trail and back. I kept on the lookout for views of Newton Bald and believe that I was able to pick it out.

Saturday, November 3, 2012

So you think you can ski? Try skiing the Appalachian Trail in a couple feet of slush using skinny cross-country skis.

Strapping on the skis and climbing up the AT toward Kephart Mountain for a couple of tenths of a mile, I struggled to maintain balance. Before turning around my GPS told me that I was at 5900 feet. I had climbed here from the Kephart Prong Trailhead at an elevation a little below 3000 feet. I thought it wiser to backtrack down the same trail than to  risk the unknown snow drifts and deadfall that might be present on a loop attempt via AT, Sluice Gap trail, and Grassy Branch trails.

The downhill skiing began. I improved. My trick was to look well ahead down the trail. I turned by lifting skis and the deep snow kept my speed very slow. Even so, I strained and was sore and exhausted. Finally, I leaned heavily on a ski pole and it folded in two. This was too hard. With the frequent breaks I needed, my average speed on ski’s wasn’t much faster than walking. I hiked most of the way down Sweet Heifer.

The Shelter –

The shelter welcomed with crackling fire in the fireplace and a collection of shelter companions. There was a couple that owned an organic farm near Mystic Connecticut. Fortunately, they hadn’t been harmed by Hurricane Sandy. Another married couple worked guiding rafting trips down the Pigeon River. Also present was Teebow, who built the fire and had gathered a large pile of dry firewood. There was a guy from Asheville waiting on 4 or 5 of his Asheville hiking buddies who had “night-hked” the climb up Mt. LeConte via Rainbow Falls. They had started at 9 PM Friday night and finished at 3 AM Saturday morning. They were “hardcore”, having night hiked this 6000 foot peak after a storm that dumped 3 feet of snow.

The Bear –

Among the late arrivals to the shelter was Thompson. He wore a long bushy black beard and a hiking kilt. One of his Asheville buddies jokingly told me that he hadn’t seen any bears, but that when his companions finally arrive sometime after nightfall, one of them could easily be mistaken for a bear. He had been talking about Thompson. The Asheville crew finally arrived with stories about how they had made a wrong turn and ended up hopelessly lost miles out of the way on the one way road around Cades Cove. You might wonder how they found their way along snow hidden trails to the top of Mt LeConte in the middle of the night.

I was tired and the first in a sleeping bag. I was sleeping on the lower level. At about 2 AM I heard a loud crash. I poked up my head and saw a large dark form on all four’s crawling around the floor of the shelter and swinging it’s front section as it apparently rummaged through some object that had created the loud crash. Seeing what I took to be a bear, I yelled, “GET BACK! GET BACK!”. The bear continued to swing its head around without moving away. “GET BACK”… I couldn’t locate my headlamp and couldn’t understand why others hadn’t wakened and turned on their headlamps. To get the shelter’s attention, I yelled “BEAR”. Finally a few lights came on and I saw Thompson on the floor of the shelter. He hadn’t said a word. He simply pulled himself up the ladder back to the top platform.

The next morning Thompson didn’t seem to remember anything. When reminded he said, “Oh yeah, I fell off the ladder right onto my back. Man my back hurts.”

The Hike –

Saturday – Two miles up Kephart Prong Trail then 3.7 miles up Sweet Heifer Creek Trail to AT. About 0.2 mi north on the AT, then return down Sweet Heifer Creek Trail to Kephart Shelter. Total 10 miles.

Sunday – 2.5 miles up Grassy Branch Trail to intersection with Sluice Gap Trail. Return to Kephart shelter. Two miles on Kephart Prong Trail back to car. Total 7 miles.

The Weather –

Hurricane Sandy had finished dumping 3 feet of snow on the higher elevations of the Smokies three days earlier. Only the previous day, Friday, a hiker stranded in 5 foot drifts on the AT between Pecks Corner and Tricorner Knob had to rescued by helicopter when rescuers gave up trying to reach him by foot on Thursday.