Category: Cycling

Cycling the Natchez Trace

This was a 3 day ride from the Nashville end of the Natchez Parkway to milepost 368 and return. I carried my sleeping bag, tarp tent, food, and supplies in my panniers and dry sack bungee attached to my bike rack.

Day 1, April 25th, 2014 – “A long ride without much rest”

From Kroger near Nashville end of Natchez Parkway to Meriwether Lewis Campground – 63 miles

I was on business in Brentwood, TN for the week so I made plans to bring my bicycle and to camp/ride as far as I could get on the Natchez Trace Parkway on the weekend following work.

A little after 2 PM on Friday I parked my car at the Kroger parking lot about a half mile northeast of the parkway on Highway 100. With little time to make my way past milepost 442 (there is no milepost 444 that I could find) all of the way to Meriwether Lewis National Monument near milepost 386, I began the long initial climb up to the first ridge.

On the way out, I stopped only for water and kept working the pedals. The parkway had very little traffic and even more surprising to me was that there were also very few bicycles. Given the low vehicle traffic, I was surprised that the parkway wasn’t heavily used by Nashville area cyclists.

The hills didn’t seem like much, but I think it was some sort of illusion brought on by the relative straightness of the road and the long gradual climbs. I am used more variation with varying lengths and grades and with curves. My legs and speed were telling me the truth. My eyes deceived.

Stopped at the Gordon House (did not tour) and used the bathroom, refilled water and ate my 6 inches of Subway sandwich and cookies left over from lunch. Some other cyclists heading north warned me to pace myself. I had Baker’s bluff ahead and about 5 miles of mostly climbing. The afternoon seemed to wear on as I counted the mileposts and dragged on ever more slowly.

The weather was beautiful the first day. Breezy and cool enough. The oaks were way behind those in Roswell, GA, still budding. Flowers bloomed along the parkway. I saw a few deer and Turkey spotting was a regular event. I think I saw the same skunk twice. Once on the first day and again on the third day when I passed the same spot. It was nosing around in the grass alongside the parkway. I didn’t stop for a photo. Sorry, no selfie with a skunk for this blog post.

Meriwether Lewis had been burned. It appeared to have been a controlled burn. I picked a campsite among the other tents and RV’s. No showers here, but there is a clean bathroom with running water. Who can complain when it is free?

The ground was a little damp and bugs flew around my head. I set up my tarp tent, but chose to lay my sleeping bag on top of the picnic table and sleep under the stars. I thought it would get me in the breeze and away from mosquitoes. I used a little of my bug repellent. Dinner was red beans and rice. I read a book on the Kindle.

Day 2, April 26th 2014 – “Just taking it easy on down the road”

From Meriwether Lewis to milepost 367 near Dogwood Mudflats and return to Meriwether Lewis.

My plan was to spend the next night at the same spot so I unloaded most of my weight and left it under my tarp tent. I mostly carried food and water since I didn’t trust leaving any food for varmints that might wander the campground.

Since I had all day and I was very worn out from the previous afternoon ride, I decided to stop at every site and to take frequent breaks. My first break was at the Meriweather Lewis death and burial site.

Meriweather Lewis Death and Burial Site

There are very few spots to stop to eat or buy food. I stopped at two of them on this day. First I stopped at the Laurel Hill Fishing lake. It is about 2 miles off the parkway. I had coffee and 2 egg and cheese biscuits at the bait shop / grill. They also serve hamburgers that looked pretty good. Among the customers was a Mennonite couple out for a day of fishing. They had driven their horse and carriage. The lake is large and includes a number of smaller attached fishing lakes. This place is popular among fishermen and looks like a great place to catch fish. Another beautiful day. I could just lay in the sun by the lake and watch a fishing pole.

Another stop was off Napier Road at a general store for a KOA campground. There wouldn’t usually be much reason to stop here and at Laurel Hill lake since they are within a few miles of one another. This store is only 0.3 miles off the parkway.

Here is where I turned around.

Original Natchez Trace – I rode this original portion of the trace for a mile or so.

Day 3, April 27th 2014 – “A hot day”

From Meriwether Lewis to Kroger on Highway 100.

I tried to take it easy today, but it was so hot and humid. Stopped and hiked to every waterfall. Worried about water running low. Drank water and more water when I finally reached Gordon house to refill water. Be careful on the Parkway and don’t skip water stops. If it is hot, you could easily run low on water. There was also no place to stop for a 2nd breakfast and coffee so I had to live off Cliff Energy bars for the entire distance. After eating oatmeal and 2 packs of hot chocolate and coffee and starting my ride at 6:30 AM, I was hungry again by 7:30 AM. Those 2 Cliff bars had to last to Nashville.

Jackson Creek Falls

Fall Hollow Falls

April 27, 2014
Milepost 469 – Blue Ridge Parkway Bicycle Ride Day 12

Last night’s camping spot was undoubtedly the best of the trip. The combination of the creek and 4200 foot elevation kept it cool. It had access by trail: no pushing through undergrowth like many others. The whole issue of finding a suitable and level campsite where I would not be disturbed has been a continuing issue on this trip. Although many people bicycle tour the Parkway, rustic camping provisions are non-existent. Compare campsites on the Silver Comet Trail and the Appalachian trail. Bike campers are left to fend for themselves on the Parkway and usually end up camping in questionable spots. As a result, it appears that most bicycle tourists go supported and stay in hotels and pay campgrounds.

The climb up Waterrock Knob (elev 5718) was much farther than I expected. The next climb from US Hwy 19 Soco Gap to Heintoga Road was easier.
At the top of Waterrock I stopped to fill up water bottles and make phone calls. The guide states water here, but I didn’t see any. Since I had time I hiked the half mile to the top of Waterrock Knob. This one is over 6000 feet ans the 15th highest peak east of the Mississippi. Back at the parking lot I used a screw from my water bottle holder to reattach the other mount of my Pannier Rack. I had left my bike gloves in the Waterrock bathroom and someone took them. Who would want those old sweaty gloves?

The morning was hot and I missed having the gloves to wipe the sweat from my eyes. I was interested in picking out Hemphill peak where I had recently hiked, but it was very hazy.

It was a fast descent to US hwy 19 Soco Gap where I exited south for 0.3 miles to the Starvin Marvin to refill water bottles. As I ate an ice-cream the man confirmed that they allow bicyclists to camp free. He showed a nice area across the street where they put the campers. There is also a restaurant with a trout pond where you can catch the fish and have them serve it to you.

Soon I was climbing again, but since hwy 19 is already over 4000 feet, this climb wasn’t too long. For water turn right at the Heintoga road (camping signs) and you will find a stream in about 100 feet.

Finally, I had the long 10 mile descent through tunnels to the Great Smokey Mountain National Park and the final milepost, 469. Midway, I stopped to chat with another bicycle tourist making the climb. When I geared down to reverse direction the rear wheel locked up and I nearly fell. The other guy noticed. I tried pedaling around and the bike seemed fine. This guy was on a 2 day trip with the first day from Gatlinburg to Cherokee and the 2nd day on to Asheville. He was using a touring bike with road bike wheels.

I finished up and headed to Peter’s Pancakes in Cherokee for a cup of coffee and some washing up before meeting Sandra. Sandra arrived looking more beautiful than ever and we headed to the Dillard Inn for a night of feasting and some rest.

The next day I noticed that the rear wheel lock was not pushed down. When on Waterrock Knob I released it in order to replace the screw on the pannier rack. Lucky for me that the wheel did not spin off during the following two major descents.

June 4, 2011
Bobcat – Blue Ridge Parkway Bicycle Ride Day 11

It was a few feet into the clear and coming down the embankment and moving toward the road. It was tawny and small. It was just a bit larger than a house cat and had a longer tail. It quickly sensed my approaching bike and darted back into the undergrowth. I had seen my first bobcat in the wild. I continued the long climb towed Mt Pisgah.

I had woken at 5:30 am and had quickly broken camp. I was riding at 6 am.. Since it wasn’t fully light I used my red blinker.

I crossed I-40 and soon crossed the French Broad River. Unlike Vinton, VA, I was surprised to find that I stayed in wooded hills the entire ride through Asheville. It would be hard to imagine that I was riding past a major city.

After the bridge over the French Broad the long climb to Mt Pisgah began. Since town had never seemed to present itself to the Parkway, I was already climbing before finding a water stop. I was already down to a single bottle of water when the climb started. It was hot and I didn’t know how far to water. I looked for steams and drips constantly. I worried a good deal. There were not many people around to borrow water from. I kind of rationed my supply as I sweated buckets om this hot and hazy morning. he wind did not stir. Finally I saw a small amount of water running down the street culvert. I followed it up in search of the fresh source. At last I ended up dipping it out of a puddle on the side of the road. It was clear though it had many tiny bugs swimming around. I added more than the usual dose of chlorine drops and pedaled on much relieved.

I took a long break at the Pisgah Inn for cleaning and breakfast. I saw the group from New Hampshire again. Yesterday, one had ridden from Blowing Rock to Mt Pisgah Inn. That is some serious punishment over 117 miles of a tough section. I think he also took in Mt Mitchell’s 1300 ft climb so add another 11 miles making it 128.

The rest of the day I either labored up or glided down the Parkways highest peaks. Looking Glass mountain stood out much of the way. It is a granite dome with trees on top.

After several climbs and descents , I made my way to an overlook of 6020 feet, breaking the 6000 foot milestone. A short while later I was at Richard Balsam Overlook at 6053 feet, the highest point on the Parkway. Photo taking was switched off between myself and a guy (ehhh) who had ridden his motorcycle from his home in British Columbia. I took very nice photos of him with his expensive camera. He held his finger over the lens of the iPhone for every one of my photos ehhh? Never trust a Canadian to take a photo! 🙁 ha ha

There were many tunnels to ride through. They made me nervous; however light traffic relieved much of my worry. Descending through the last tunnel of the day, a car entered from the other side with headlights off. I couldn’t see him at all, but I heard his honk. I couldn’t tell whether he was in front or behind. I moved toward the wall and strained my eyes in an attempt to perceive the automobile’s location. Just then, headlights flashed on in the approaching lane. I waved my fist as he sped by.

A little farther down I ran into a Boy Scout troop from Lilburn, GA assembled at an Overlook with support vehicles. They were wrapping up the first day of a multi-day Blue Ridge Parkway ride. Very nice. They offered me water. Since I needed to camp soon I had both my 2 liter and water bottles filled.

Tonight I am camping at 4200 feet next to a nice stream. Hopefully this will make a cooler night.

American kid in college trip took this photo at Courthouse Bald. When I started to explain how to use the iPhone, he quickly said “I have one..know how” As you can see below, American made is superior to Made in Canada.

June 2, 2011
Bobcat – Blue Ridge Parkway Bicycle Ride Day 11

It was a few feet into the clear and coming down the embankment and moving toward the road. It was tawny and small. It was just a bit larger than a house cat and had a longer tail. It quickly sensed my approaching bike and darted back into the undergrowth. I had seen my first bobcat in the wild. I continued the long climb towed Mt Pisgah.

I had woken at 5:30 am and had quickly broken camp. I was riding at 6 am.. Since it wasn’t fully light I used my red blinker.

I crossed I-40 and soon crossed the French Broad River. Unlike Vinton, VA, I was surprised to find that I stayed in wooded hills the entire ride through Asheville. It would be hard to imagine that I was riding past a major city.

After the bridge over the French Broad the long climb to Mt Pisgah began. Since town had never seemed to present itself to the Parkway, I was already climbing before finding a water stop. I was already down to a single bottle of water when the climb started. It was hot and I didn’t know how far to water. I looked for steams and drips constantly. I worried a good deal. There were not many people around to borrow water from. I kind of rationed my supply as I sweated buckets om this hot and hazy morning. he wind did not stir. Finally I saw a small amount of water running down the street culvert. I followed it up in search of the fresh source. At last I ended up dipping it out of a puddle on the side of the road. It was clear though it had many tiny bugs swimming around. I added more than the usual dose of chlorine drops and pedaled on much relieved.

I took a long break at the Pisgah Inn for cleaning and breakfast. I saw the group from New Hampshire again. Yesterday, one had ridden from Blowing Rock to Mt Pisgah Inn. That is some serious punishment over 117 miles of a tough section. I think he also took in Mt Mitchell’s 1300 ft climb so add another 11 miles making it 128.

The rest of the day I either labored up or glided down the Parkways highest peaks. Looking Glass mountain stood out much of the way. It is a granite dome with trees on top.

After several climbs and descents , I made my way to an overlook of 6020 feet, breaking the 6000 foot milestone. A short while later I was at Richard Balsam Overlook at 6053 feet, the highest point on the Parkway. Photo taking was switched off between myself and a guy (ehhh) who had ridden his motorcycle from his home in British Columbia.

There were many tunnels to ride through. They made me nervous; however light traffic relieved much of my worry. Descending through the last tunnel of the day, a car entered from the other side with headlights off. I couldn’t see him at all, but I heard his honk. I couldn’t tell whether he was in front or behind. I moved toward the wall and strained my eyes in an attempt to perceive the automobile’s location. Just then, headlights flashed on in the approaching lane. I waved my fist as he sped by.

A little farther down I ran into a Boy Scout troop from Lilburn, GA assembled at an Overlook with support vehicles. They were wrapping up the first day of a multi-day Blue Ridge Parkway ride. Very nice. They offered me water. Since I needed to camp soon I had both my 2 liter and water bottles filled.

Tonight I am camping at 4200 feet next to a nice stream. Hopefully this will make a cooler night.

June 2, 2011
Craggy Gardens – Blue Ridge Parkway Bicycle Ride Day 10

Today I blasted through the 5000 ft elevation barrier having three long climbs along the way. The first big climb started at the Burger King in Spruce Pine. I was up early having camped on a steep slope near the Spruce Pine exit. I used the uphill side of a large oak tree to give myself about 3 feet of flat space under the tarp. I had camped in a rhododendron thicket. I sped down to the BK and had a couple of egg and cheese croissants and pancakes and coffee. I was on my climb shortly after 7 am. As I reached Little Switzerland, my dad and Minnie called. Soon after I was going through the first of a number of tunnels for the day. I rode the rest of thisajor ascent with a couple of guys wearing US Army bike jerseys.

The 2nd major climb began where Hwy 80 intersects. This is also where the Assault on Mt Mitchell joins the Parkway. Now I am reminded why the Assault was so tough. The higher portion of this climb crossed to the sunny side of the ridge as temps increased and my water ran low. There was another drop, then the final major climb to Mt Mitchell State Park.

I chose to bypass the Mt Mitchell climb and headed on up the Parkway with what little water remained. Fortunately it wasn’t long before I saw a stream of water coming from the rock face road cut. I filled bottles and added chlorine. Farther up the road I took a refreshing shower under the rocks to completely cool off.

I cooked rice and sardines at the scenic Glassmine falls overlook.

I saw beautiful stands of flowering Galax for the first time on this trip. I also saw some sort of blue phlox that I hadn’t yet seen. See photo. Phlox?

Now I relax in a Starbucks waiting the hour when darkness will fall so I can secretly retire to a nearby patch of Parkway woods. A couple of policemen sit nearby cheerfully sipping cafe lattes as if to remind me of the perils of my sleeping arrangements.

May 30, 2011
Grandfather Mountain – Blue Ridge Parkway Bicycle Ride Day 9

I woke up weak and hungry. Only a can of sardines for supper last night and now I was enjoying a couple of fig newtons and a dry granola bar for breakfast. With 12 miles to Blowing Rock and breakfast, I felt like a dead man on wheels. There were repeated short ascents with annoyingly tough grades. It seems like the hills are worse than the long mountain climbs.

I finally reached town and ordered a veggie omelet with grits and biscuits. They put an entire coffee pot carafe on your table. I emptied it twice and ordered a banana nut muffin when the regular breakfast didn’t succeed in conquering my hunger. I was smothering everything with honey and orange marmalade.

I did a moderate amount of riding around town. Grocery shopped at Food Lion to replenish oatmeal, bananas, fig newtons, and sardines. Bought some Claritin store brand for allergies and vitamin C packets based on testimony that they cure all.

Went to the town pool for a shower and when I saw that it didn’t open until noon, I used the restroom to wash clothes and soap myself down from head to toe. My bike shorts are really a hybrid bathing suit – cargo shorts so after washing these I put them back on and stepped outside to douse the soap off my body with my water bottle. I repeated this with several refills of the water bottle. This gave me a good bath without flooding the bathroom floor 🙂

There were three major challenges of the day. The empty stomach short steep hills of the morning, a climb to over 4200 feet around GrandFather Mountain, and to finish the day a grueling hot afternoon long steep climb up a mountain and around Linville Gorge. The payoff on the last was an incredible drop off view into the gorge that reminded me of Glacier Point in Yosemite.

The real milestone was to exceed 4000 feet elevation. During the entire journey I would climb while overlook signs informed me that I was reaching elevations increasing toward the magic 4k. Alas, as soon as I neared this milestone, I would enter a steep hair blowing descent only to try again on the next hill.

With the spectacular views, tourist attractions, thousands of people, and cliff clinging viaducts, this day was exciting. Today i wasn’t counting mileposts while pushing up long slopes.

The negative was the constant stream of holiday weekend traffic along this popular section. I was constantly passed by long lines of motorcycles. Cars and trucks often passed on blind curves. I was always checking EVERYTHING mirror and in front. This was by far the busiest traffic day so far.

Now I am at Burger King in Spruce King, NC.. I am charging my external battery pack and washing bike shirt in the Burger King sink. I just ate at the Subway in the Wal-Mart across the street. Bought a new bike helmet at Wal-Mart to replace the one I lost 3 days ago.

I think I will try to camp close to this exit so I can ride the mile to Subway for breakfast tomorrow.

May 29, 2011