Author: mmbowden60

Shining Rock Wilderness / Cold Mountain Hike – Sept 23 & 24 2011

Sept 23, 2011

Slept in the back of the van last night at the parking for the trailhead for Old Butt Knob trail. Rained all night. In the morning I cooked breakfast in the rain, but the rain cleared before I started hiking. Old Butt Knob trail is not as tough as Green Mountain trail, but it does have some very steep sections along
a narrow rocky ridge. The sky became absolutely clear blue with a few clouds blanketing some lower mountains and valleys. Just as quickly the clouds moved in again. Took a long break at Shining Rocks enjoying a great view from the white quartz outcroppings. Having been soaked from wet branches and sitting in the wind, I needed my jacket during the break. Now I am on Star Mountain having red beans and rice for lunch. I have only seen a couple on Art Loeb trail. They were returning from a wet night on Cold Mountain. Now, on to Cold Mtn for me! Oh yes…my left knee is a little sore from the steep climbs.

Mark on Shining Rock

I am relaxing in my tarp tent near the top of Cold Mountain. Passing through the narrows required a lot of stepping up large rocks. I thought I had finished the hard part this morning. The narrows have great views from both sides. The ridge is so rocky and narrow there is very little room for a trail. I took my time and made detours to climb over some of the more spectacular rocks.

I met a couple of guys, Drew and Taylor from Charlotte, NC, at the gap where the Cold Mountain trail intersects Art Loeb. They had started at Daniel Boone Scout Camp (north end of Art Loeb) and were hiking south, the length of Art Loeb. Taking a wrong turn, they had just come down from Cold Mountain. They pointed at another trail that they thought was Art Loeb and I told them that the trail they were pointing at might be a trail, but that it is not on the map. It took a little conversation before I understood that they intended to continue south on Art Loeb. I pointed out the trail that I had just come down and Drew said, “We wondered about that, you just appeared coming out of that overgrowth. Looking back at where I came out, I realized that it would be hard to see the overgrown trail. Drew had been so confused that he couldn’t point out Art Loeb in the direction that they had just come from.

This reminds me of a sign at the Trailhead parking lot, “What to do if you are lost”. Among the advice is to go down a drainage until you cross a trail or road. I wouldn’t want to try that. This is the only time I have seen a “Lost” sign. Undoubtedly, many people get lost here with the many confusing unmarked trails.

Finished supper and began to wonder whether I brought enough food. I didn’t really plan the meals like I usually do. I got lazy and threw some food in the pack. I might be a couple of meals short.

Bears:
Haven’t seen any. Just hung an awesome bearline. Usually I don’t go to much trouble to make a good bear line. Last trip i didn’t hang the food. I put it a little way from my tent. Just far enough so the bear wouldn’t need to crawl over me to get the food and just close enough that I could scare any bear that was getting my food; not that this method would work. Taylor (of the lost guys) had a big red can of bear spray. Some company is making some money selling that stuff. It was the 2nd person I have recently seen with bear repellant. I can imagine the salesperson…telling stories of bear attacks. The customer says, “I plan on hiking in Shininig Rock”. The salesperson says, ” Beautiful place, Did you hear about the bear attack there last week? … Tragic…If only the young lady had had bear repellant with her.”

Rhododendrum Tunnel on Art Loeb trail just north of Shining Rock Gap

Mark settled in on Cold Mountain. I made it an early day, knocking off at 5PM.

My campsite on Cold Mountain

Bear Bag is hung on Cold Mountain

View of Cold Mountain from the Narrows

Sept 24, 2011

My knee felt fine today. I slept warmly last night with the sound of occasional gusts of wind and my tarp pulled all of the way up on one side. I was awake at 6:15 am, with bear bag retrieved and coffee heating up. By 8 AM I was descending Cold Mountain. I was surprised to see that someone had pitched a tent about a hundred yards down the trail from me. I walked quietly by as they slept. Descending section 4 of the Art Loeb trail toward the Daniel Boone Scout Camp, I passed one large deadfall that was causing a new trail blaze straight up the hill and around the tree. About a mile later, I met a group of trail maintainers hiking toward this deadfall. They carried a cross-cut saw. I asked them if it was a “bow” saw. I meant to say cross-cut saw, but it was too late. They took me for a novice and began to explain the technical requirements of their jobs with regard to Wilderness regulations.

At Daniel Boone Scout camp, I made a mental note of the parking that was available for hikers. (There is plenty of parking on the roadside before crossing the bridge.) I ran into several others readying themselves for a day-hike up Cold Mountain. I continued up the road past the sign for the East Fork Trail and over the bridge. Trailheads for the East Fork and Art Loeb are both easy to find. East Fork was a nice ascending trail falling an old logging road. It followed the creek on the right bank, finally crossing and continuing up the road away from the creek and toward Shining Rock Gap. It is an easy walk. The creek had nice water cascades, pools, and slides. At one point I spied huge granite formations hidden in the woods on the opposite bank. The 3 – 4 story tall granite monoliths split into what appeared to be a large opening or cave. Hidden in the dark trees, it was difficult to pick out. Next time I need to check out these rocks. I continued over Beech Gap and had a late lunch on the Shining Rock Creek trail. Shortly after crossing a particularly tricky deadfall, I met a young man moving toward me with a quick pace. We stopped briefly as I stated what a tough deadfall he would soon be climbing over. We quickly recognized one another. This was the guy I met during a hike in the Citico Creek Wilderness a couple of years ago. He was the youngest person to have ever hiked all of the trails in the Smokies. By 3 PM, I was back to the car.

I took this photo in order to attempt to identify this plant that was growing on Cold Mountain Trail.

Water spills and pool in East Fork Creek

September 26, 2011

Middle Prong & Shining Rock Wilderness First Trip

September 9, 2011 – Friday Night

Along a dark stretch of road next to Lake Logan I slowed as I approached a car that had run into a ditch. I stopped to ask whether anyone was hurt and I quickly saw that the only “hurt” was the “hurt” that a bottle of liquor can put on a person. This guy and his girlfriend were otherwise okay. He obviously didn’t want 911 involved. I told him that I couldn’t pull his car out of the ditch and I moved on. Most cars that came along weren’t stopping.

At the Starburst campground/picnic area I attempted to locate the trailhead. There was no sign and no sign of a trail; only woods and undergrowth. I met the campground attendant as she was closing the gate at 10 PM. She explained the location of the trailheads, although she only recalled the Green Mountain Trail after much reflection.

Instead of paying $13 for a campsite, I took the forest road on the right just before the bridge. Immediately after fording a creek, I pulled into a camping spot on the left. The next morning, I used my camp box and Coleman stove to cook a breakfast of eggwhite’s on tortillas. I parked at the picnic area and payed the $6 two night parking fee by dropping an envelope in the pay station.

September 10, 2011, Saturday

Note on how to find the trailhead..

The Green Mountain Trail is only a few feet beyond the bridge on the right side of the road. The roadside is overgrown and there are no signs so you just have to plunge into the woods in order to see the trail. The trail immediately turns left and heads very steeply up the hill for the next three quarters of a mile. There is also a trail that continues straight along the creek. The creek trail isn’t the right one.

Well Hidden Trailhead for Green Mountain Trail…..

Green Mountain Trail continues along the ridgeline for it’s entire length. If you veer far from the ridgeline, then you have gotten off the trail. After the first three quarters of a mile, you get your first short break, but not for long. The trail continues ascending steeply, but not with the “near crawl up the slope” steepness of the first part.

Wrong Turn:

Name:		False trail
Date:		Sep 10, 2011 11:56 am
Map: (valid until Mar 13, 2012)		View on Map
iPhone/iPad Map:		Maps Application
Location:
	Zone:	17S
	Easting:	325319mE
	Northing:	3911858mN
	Altitude:	5,800 ft

Near one of the mountain tops, I continued straight on a trail as the Green Mountain trail veered a little to the left and uphill. Although harder to follow, this trail continued with a worn path, descending then turning further to the left and away from the ridgeline. After a quarter mile, I stopped to examine the map. I figured out how to use GPM Easting and Northing coordinates with map & GPS by reading the instructions given on the map and going to “settings” on my GPS Iphone App to change coordinates to GPM. This confirmed that I was off course so I backtracked up the mountain to regain the trail.

(I found a slow water seep during the detour. It might be dry at times.)

Name:		Water Seasonal
Date:		Sep 10, 2011 11:41 am
Map: (valid until Mar 13, 2012)		View on Map
iPhone/iPad Map:		Maps Application
Location:
	Zone:	17S
	Easting:	325729mE
	Northing:	3911779mN
	Altitude:	5,622 ft

There were no other people on this trail and it had a generous portion of rock outcroppings, narrow ridges, and open balds that made nice viewing and camping areas. The hidden trailhead and wicked first mile of the trail made it a little used paradise.

With no signs and hard to follow trail, I already distrusted any apparent path. At about 5 miles by GPS, I knew that I should be picking up the Mountain to Sea Trail. Finally, I made a left turn on the MST and covered about a mile to a stream where I filled my 2 Liter. After filling the 2 liter, I hiked the wrong way nearly the entire way back to the Green Mountain Trail.

Just before the Green Mountain Trail intersection I encountered my first person. Scott was thru-hiking the MST and was headed in the opposite direction. He asked whether he was going in the right direction. We soon discovered that we both intended to hike toward the Art Loeb trail. One of us had to be wrong. I checked my GPS App track and saw a double line that indicated that I had been backtracking. I had already been here! I couldn’t believe it. We got out the maps and I finally convinced myself that I had lost my mind. This was the first “wrong way” for me. I began backtracking my backtrack and the GPS trace began drawing the third line across the same section of trail. Scott and I hiked together most of the way. The MST had some nice cliffs along this section. I camped a couple hundred yards up the Art Loeb Trail intersection. Art Loeb and MST share a trail at this point.

September 11, 2001 – Sunday

My back was sore and I was tired so I was a little slower than usual in getting started. After coffee and a large oatmeal I headed out on the MST the wrong way. This time I only walked about 200 yards before coming to the signed Art Loeb/Mountain to Sea trail junction. Seeing the sign, I turned around and headed in the right direction.

I began seeing large camping groups and borrowed water from first one group, then a second group I found car camping at a road crossing. With my 2 Liter filled again, I didn’t need to worry about finding water sources. I was soon in open bald areas that looked down on the distant Blue Ridge Parkway. I could see the Parkway bending as it ascended the mountain range. It was something to think that in June I had been riding my bicycle up that long climb. There were many people on this section. I summited Black Balsalm Mountain and Tennent Mountain before the crowds began to thin somewhat. This area has great wide open views with elevations at or above 6000 feet.

At Ivestor Gap, I re-entered the wilderness where there was once again a total absence of signs. I soon took a wrong turn as I crossed Grassy Bald. Somehow I ended up on the Big East Fork trail, covering 45 minutes of hiking (2 miles and beyond Grassy Gap) before realizing that I was on the wrong trail. I backtracked uphill to Ivestor Gap and took the flat road trail on the west side of Grassy Bald. I think the original Art Loeb trail leads past an erosion control sign (only sign in wilderness) and straight over the top of Grassy Bald.

At Shining Rock Gap there was another major intersection with multiple trails and no signs. Other hikers told me that the Art Loeb went straight ahead up to Shining Rock. This was wrong. Actually the Old Butt Knob trail starts off by heading from Shining Rock Gap to Shining Rock. I became very lost in the Shining Rock area and walked past the rock and farther down the Old Butt Knob trail before backtracking and wandering around through mazes of false trails on narrow paths cut through shoulder high hedges of thick laurel. After a late lunch break on the Shining Rock I started back toward Ivestor Gap. It was past 3 PM and I knew I wasn’t going to complete my original plan to hike to Cold Mountain and back. All of the backtracking had worn me out and put me off schedule.

I explored a short way down each trail leading from the Shining Rock Gap trail intersection. Soon I was sure that I could identify each trail. I took the Art Loeb Trail on the return hike to Ivestor Gap. After passing a good water source a few yards from the gap and crossing over the top of a couple of peaks, the trail was blocked with a pile of sticks with a diversion to the east side of the ridge line. This must have been the other side of the erosion control section of the trail. It wasn’t long before I recognized this diversion trail. I had been on this portion when I had become lost somewhere on the Big East Fork Trail. I recognized narrow waste deep trenches running down the middle of the trail. I continued to follow this trail until I came back out at Ivestor Gap. I still have no clue of how this route could have put me onto the Big East Fork. That will remain a mystery.

My next big concern was in finding the Fork Mountain Trail. Everyone I had spoken to had never seen it, though several had looked for it. Following the continuation of the Equestrian Road/Bike Path from Ivestor Gap, I followed the map and looked carefully for the trailhead. Following this road/path about a mile beyond Ivestor Gap toward the Blue Ridge Parkway, it finally intersected with a ridgeline that led north. Here was an overgrown trailhead.

Standing at the trailhead, was a guy named Seth. I asked him whether this was the Fork Mountain Trailhead. He said yes and told me that it had been some time since he had hiked on the trail and that would come along with me part way.

We parted the branches and entered the trail. It was completely overgrown. Seth walked in front, moving quickly; crashing through the undergrowth. The trail more or less followed the ridgeline, dropping a little off to the left (west) at times. Seth began talking and the growth became thicker. Pretty soon, Seth was far enough ahead that I couldn’t see him through the undergrowth, but I could still hear him talking. The loud noise of me moving through undergrowth kept me from being able to hear what he was saying. After about a mile we descended into a large open gap. I set up camp here. Suprisingly, there was already a man and a dog already camping here.

I had Idahoan Instant Potatoes mixed with left over lunch rice and vegetables. It was hard to eat it all, but I didn’t want to leave any for the bears.

There was a full moon for the 2nd night. The night sky was bright as soon as the moon rose. It rained a little during the night. I listened to podcasts of “The News from Lake Wobegone” and I wondered how hard it would be to follow tomorrow’s trail.

September 12, 2011, Monday

There was a little over 5 miles remaining; however, without signs and a little used and overgrown trail, I was concerned about becoming lost again. I had downloaded the GPS track for the Fork Mountain Trail before the trip. This time, I used my Iphone App “Follow Track” feature to keep me on course. This feature kept track of my position as I accurately following the downloaded track.

The trail followed a narrow ridgeline with several spectacular outcroppings that provided good views of the next ridgeline where the Green Mountain Trail runs. The last of the bad overgrowth was behind me and the trail was much easier to follow. There were a few places that required search and thought, but I had the GPS track to follow so I could be sure not to stray too far off the path. Soon I made it back to Starburst without getting turned around or lost; a first!

September 16, 2011

Smoky Mountains – Deep Creek to Newton Bald Loop Hike

July 15th 2011 – Friday

In order to get an early start on Saturday morning, I drove to the Fontana Hilton trail shelter late Friday evening. It was just after midnight when I arrived. I parked, grabbed my sleeping pad and bag, and walked down the path to this double-wide shelter. A lady told me that a Boy Scout troop and others were there. Some had dragged their sleeping bags out into the gravel area around the shelter and were sleeping under the clouds. It looked like a good chance of rain so I took up the one remaining spot in the jam packed shelter. Just as I climbed to my spot on the top level, my neighbor let loose the first of his rafter shaking farts. I wondered that everyone in the shelter didn’t wake up. This was not as I had imagined it. I had guessed that there might be one or two others or perhaps nobody else in this shelter. Instead there were about 28 people here. The bathroom was disgusting. I walked right back out, nearly gagging. Some kid had a problem and after a loud argument that the leader ended by saying, “You will sleep here or else!”, he settled down outside the shelter and began making upchuck sounds. The kid must have been sick. Lot’s of noise for after midnight. I eventually slept some and was gone the next morning before daylight.

My route is shown traced in orange on map, below.

July 16th 2011 – 9.6 Miles, Deep Creek to camp at Newton Bald.

After a long breakfast at the Subway in Bryson City, I began hiking Deep Creek Trail to Indian Creek Trail to Stone Pile Gap Trail which led to Thomas Divide Trail. There had been rain and cooler temperatures so the forest was dripping wet. I climbed around 3300 vertical feet to just over 5000 feet at campsite 52, Newton Bald. I was a little wet and chilled from the moisture I picked up from undergrowth. Traveling light, I had no extra dry clothing, only some rain gear and a sleeping bag. I was at camp by noon, having covered, 9.6 miles. I filled water bottles at the spring, ate lunch, and set up my tarp. After very little sleep the night before and a lot of climbing I rolled out my sleeping bag and took a nap. A Ridge Runner came by while I was asleep and collected the lunch trash I had left out. I had no idea that he came into camp and only figured this out when other campers later told me about the Ridge Runner. Five young guys from the University of Tennessee arrived shortly after I woke up and they set up camp nearby. Late in the evening I explored behind my campsite with the hope of discovering an opening large enough to view the sunset. Instead I spied a bear quietly making his way up the hill about 100 yards from my tent.

July 17th 2011 – 10.9 miles

Returned to car via Sunkota Ridge Trail. Good mushroom bloom both days. Saw no other hikers until I reached the Loop Trail. Nice morning. Hungry. Back to Subway for footlong sandwich and cookies.

no images were found

July 23, 2011

Milepost 469 – Blue Ridge Parkway Bicycle Ride Day 12

Last night’s camping spot was undoubtedly the best of the trip. The combination of the creek and 4200 foot elevation kept it cool. It had access by trail: no pushing through undergrowth like many others. The whole issue of finding a suitable and level campsite where I would not be disturbed has been a continuing issue on this trip. Although many people bicycle tour the Parkway, rustic camping provisions are non-existent. Compare campsites on the Silver Comet Trail and the Appalachian trail. Bike campers are left to fend for themselves on the Parkway and usually end up camping in questionable spots. As a result, it appears that most bicycle tourists go supported and stay in hotels and pay campgrounds.

The climb up Waterrock Knob (elev 5718) was much farther than I expected. The next climb from US Hwy 19 Soco Gap to Heintoga Road was easier.
At the top of Waterrock I stopped to fill up water bottles and make phone calls. The guide states water here, but I didn’t see any. Since I had time I hiked the half mile to the top of Waterrock Knob. This one is over 6000 feet ans the 15th highest peak east of the Mississippi. Back at the parking lot I used a screw from my water bottle holder to reattach the other mount of my Pannier Rack. I had left my bike gloves in the Waterrock bathroom and someone took them. Who would want those old sweaty gloves?

The morning was hot and I missed having the gloves to wipe the sweat from my eyes. I was interested in picking out Hemphill peak where I had recently hiked, but it was very hazy.

It was a fast descent to US hwy 19 Soco Gap where I exited south for 0.3 miles to the Starvin Marvin to refill water bottles. As I ate an ice-cream the man confirmed that they allow bicyclists to camp free. He showed a nice area across the street where they put the campers. There is also a restaurant with a trout pond where you can catch the fish and have them serve it to you.

Soon I was climbing again, but since hwy 19 is already over 4000 feet, this climb wasn’t too long. For water turn right at the Heintoga road (camping signs) and you will find a stream in about 100 feet.

Finally, I had the long 10 mile descent through tunnels to the Great Smokey Mountain National Park and the final milepost, 469. Midway, I stopped to chat with another bicycle tourist making the climb. When I geared down to reverse direction the rear wheel locked up and I nearly fell. The other guy noticed. I tried pedaling around and the bike seemed fine. This guy was on a 2 day trip with the first day from Gatlinburg to Cherokee and the 2nd day on to Asheville. He was using a touring bike with road bike wheels.

I finished up and headed to Peter’s Pancakes in Cherokee for a cup of coffee and some washing up before meeting Sandra. Sandra arrived looking more beautiful than ever and we headed to the Dillard Inn for a night of feasting and some rest.

The next day I noticed that the rear wheel lock was not pushed down. When on Waterrock Knob I released it in order to replace the screw on the pannier rack. Lucky for me that the wheel did not spin off during the following two major descents.

June 4, 2011

Bobcat – Blue Ridge Parkway Bicycle Ride Day 11

It was a few feet into the clear and coming down the embankment and moving toward the road. It was tawny and small. It was just a bit larger than a house cat and had a longer tail. It quickly sensed my approaching bike and darted back into the undergrowth. I had seen my first bobcat in the wild. I continued the long climb towed Mt Pisgah.

I had woken at 5:30 am and had quickly broken camp. I was riding at 6 am.. Since it wasn’t fully light I used my red blinker.

I crossed I-40 and soon crossed the French Broad River. Unlike Vinton, VA, I was surprised to find that I stayed in wooded hills the entire ride through Asheville. It would be hard to imagine that I was riding past a major city.

After the bridge over the French Broad the long climb to Mt Pisgah began. Since town had never seemed to present itself to the Parkway, I was already climbing before finding a water stop. I was already down to a single bottle of water when the climb started. It was hot and I didn’t know how far to water. I looked for steams and drips constantly. I worried a good deal. There were not many people around to borrow water from. I kind of rationed my supply as I sweated buckets om this hot and hazy morning. he wind did not stir. Finally I saw a small amount of water running down the street culvert. I followed it up in search of the fresh source. At last I ended up dipping it out of a puddle on the side of the road. It was clear though it had many tiny bugs swimming around. I added more than the usual dose of chlorine drops and pedaled on much relieved.

I took a long break at the Pisgah Inn for cleaning and breakfast. I saw the group from New Hampshire again. Yesterday, one had ridden from Blowing Rock to Mt Pisgah Inn. That is some serious punishment over 117 miles of a tough section. I think he also took in Mt Mitchell’s 1300 ft climb so add another 11 miles making it 128.

The rest of the day I either labored up or glided down the Parkways highest peaks. Looking Glass mountain stood out much of the way. It is a granite dome with trees on top.

After several climbs and descents , I made my way to an overlook of 6020 feet, breaking the 6000 foot milestone. A short while later I was at Richard Balsam Overlook at 6053 feet, the highest point on the Parkway. Photo taking was switched off between myself and a guy (ehhh) who had ridden his motorcycle from his home in British Columbia. I took very nice photos of him with his expensive camera. He held his finger over the lens of the iPhone for every one of my photos ehhh? Never trust a Canadian to take a photo! 🙁 ha ha

There were many tunnels to ride through. They made me nervous; however light traffic relieved much of my worry. Descending through the last tunnel of the day, a car entered from the other side with headlights off. I couldn’t see him at all, but I heard his honk. I couldn’t tell whether he was in front or behind. I moved toward the wall and strained my eyes in an attempt to perceive the automobile’s location. Just then, headlights flashed on in the approaching lane. I waved my fist as he sped by.

A little farther down I ran into a Boy Scout troop from Lilburn, GA assembled at an Overlook with support vehicles. They were wrapping up the first day of a multi-day Blue Ridge Parkway ride. Very nice. They offered me water. Since I needed to camp soon I had both my 2 liter and water bottles filled.

Tonight I am camping at 4200 feet next to a nice stream. Hopefully this will make a cooler night.

American kid in college trip took this photo at Courthouse Bald. When I started to explain how to use the iPhone, he quickly said “I have one..know how” As you can see below, American made is superior to Made in Canada.

June 2, 2011

Bobcat – Blue Ridge Parkway Bicycle Ride Day 11

I had woken at 5:30 am and had quickly broken camp. I was riding at 6 am.. Since it wasn’t fully light I used my red blinker.

The rest of the day I either labored up or glided down the Parkways highest peaks. Looking Glass mountain stood out much of the way. It is a granite dome with trees on top.

Tonight I am camping at 4200 feet next to a nice stream. Hopefully this will make a cooler night.

June 2, 2011

Author: mmbowden60

Shining Rock Wilderness / Cold Mountain Hike – Sept 23 & 24 2011

Middle Prong & Shining Rock Wilderness First Trip

Smoky Mountains – Deep Creek to Newton Bald Loop Hike

Milepost 469 – Blue Ridge Parkway Bicycle Ride Day 12

Bobcat – Blue Ridge Parkway Bicycle Ride Day 11

Bobcat – Blue Ridge Parkway Bicycle Ride Day 11